What’s the secret to removing the heater shroud on a Bravo?

[Rick Junkin]

I need to remove the heater shroud for repairs but can’t figure out how to get it off. Will it come off around the tether cable for the exhaust crossover tube or do I need to disconnect the cable and pull it through the shroud? I think I just answered my own question, but I’m at the end of my day and I’d rather not disassemble anything else at this point. This will be first up in the morning.

Thanks in advance, all you Bravo gurus.

[Rick Junkin]

@philiplane 

Can you give me some pointers on the best way to remove the heat shroud from the exhaust cross-over tube? Mine has what looks like heatproof fabric on it that covers the split on the top of the shroud for the exhaust cross-over tube tether cable and we can't see how to get it off around the cable without destroying the fabric. Or even how to cut the fabric if that's what it takes. Mine's damaged (the angled output tube broke free) and we can't repair it in place.

I know we're missing something. It can't really be this hard, its supposed to be removed for inspection of the cross-over every annual.

Thanks for your help and expertise!

Cheers,
Rick

[FoxMike]

I would start by removing the the air intake completely  The fabric needs cut, then the shroud needs to be carefully removed so as not to permanently bend it.  Job is kind of a hassle. 

[Rick Junkin]

2 hours ago, FoxMike said:

I would start by removing the the air intake completely  The fabric needs cut, then the shroud needs to be carefully removed so as not to permanently bend it.  Job is kind of a hassle. 

Thanks! I didn't want to cut into it if that wasn't the approved solution. The intake and induction filter have been removed for access.

[FoxMike]

When I said air intake I meant the air intake for the heater.  it connects to the forward baffle.

[Rick Junkin]

On 3/31/2025 at 2:10 PM, FoxMike said:

Job is kind of a hassle.

You forgot to mention it requires brute force and some amount of cursing. But I guess that goes for just about every job in the Bravo engine compartment.

i got it out and discovered that a poor attempt had been made to effect a previous repair in the same area. I need to stop drill several cracks, make a doubler and rivet it in place, and rivet the outlet tube onto the repaired area. Lots of supervised work on this one.

Thanks for the help!

[Rick Junkin]

...and then I discovered the crack in my exhaust 

All for naught, the whole shebang is going out for overhaul, including the heat shroud. Actually I guess it wasn't for naught - I may not have discovered the exhaust crack had I not been working on the shroud in the first place, and decided to pressurize the exhaust while I had it off. How fortuitous.

[LANCECASPER]

I found a crack on the tailpipe Y soon after I bought the last M20M that I owned. This was after a 5 hour trip bringing it back home. Had that separated in cruise I'm not sure how it would have turned out. The heat shield would have lasted a little while and the firewall a much shorter time.  Glad you caught that!!!

[Fritz1]

looks like crack in turbo transition, was that visible with the bare eye or only visible with soap water throwing bubbles?

[Rick Junkin]

30 minutes ago, Fritz1 said:

looks like crack in turbo transition, was that visible with the bare eye or only visible with soap water throwing bubbles?

It's the base of the #2 riser. I didn't see it on visual inspection, and only caught it when overspray from the slip joint I was looking at started bubbling.

[Fritz1]

Got it, exhaust is the weakest part in Bravo engine, therefore 1580 dF is a good number for max TIT