Cigarette Lighter socket as USB power source

[PeterRus]

I have something that looks like a standard cigarette lighter socket in the airplane and I was thinking that a USB-C power source is a better option for my purposes. I can see there are several options available that hopefully would fit in the space: remove the socket and replace with neat nice TSOd unit from the well-known company. List price is about $400 + avionics shop rate to install and wire + extra fuse in the panel. Let's call in an even $1k.

Another option is to buy a well-made USB-C adapter that fits in the cigarette light socket. Price is ~$15 for an USB-C that delivers about 20W per port -- should suffice for an iPad or iPhone. Simultaneously. 

The question: Are there any safety concerns with the $15 dollars of monies approach vs biting the $1k bullet? I  think the cigarette lighter does not a fuse for example. 

TIA.

Edited October 7 by PeterRus

[natdm]

It definitely goes to a fuse. And yes it's safe. 

[McMooney]

I use a cig to multi cig/ usb-a and usb c adapter.   you may have to buy and test a few different brands and models as some will generate noise in your avionics.

this applies to cables also, even good cables at just the right length and orientation may generate radio noise.

actually had this happen, one day while flying in the houston b, the radios just spazzed out,  static everywhere, couldn't hear atc at all, pulling the usb cable out of the audio panel fixed teh situation. 

[MisfitSELF]

I got a cigarette lighter USB plug from one of the aviation web retailers that includes a bus voltage display and two connectors.  Easy peasy.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/mgfmicrocharger13-15538.php?clickkey=6431

 

[Ragsf15e]

Definitely use the adapter instead of hard wired.  There’s already a fuse or circuit breaker.  It might take a few $15 tries to get the right one as described above.  Mine also shows bus voltage which is a nice comparison to my jpi.

[toto]

I get very nervous trusting a gazillion dollars' worth of avionics to a cheap power adapter - I just carry an external battery pack.

[EricJ]

They're generally safe, easy to use, and easily removable if they do ever cause trouble.    The expensive in-panel ones are generally just more expensive and not necessarily any "better" than plugging in a cheapie adapter.   The main risk is whether they generate much rf noise that might interfere with radios or other avionics.    I've looked at this a couple times, and the last time was four years ago and so newer devices may be different than what was tested.    The bottom line every time I've tested this is that the cost and pedigree of the unit has little to do with how quiet it is in an rf sense, so just get something decent and if it gives you trouble get a different one.   The quietest one I ever tested was a cheapie spiff giveaway unit branded with the name of a bank.

http://ericjacobsen.org/Files/USB_Power_Supply_RF_analysis_3.pdf

From here:
 

 

[PeterRus]

Found an old thread: 

The adapter I have ordered from Amazon: https://www.anker.com/products/a2720?variant=37438015111318&collections_wireless-car-chargers=undefined&Sort_by=Recommended#!

Another consideration is my airplane is 28V and some cigarette lighter plugs may be 12V. The one I have is marked 12V/24V input. 

Yes, I do have a CIG LITR fuse, 10A. That's ~240W of power. 

Thanks everyone for replies. 

 

Edited October 7 by PeterRus

[bigmo]

I can send you a link when I get home tonight. I have a really quality two USB plug that's all aluminum construction, very low profile, and has several EEs that did tests confirming very low noise. Zero issues and like you, was not willing to spend $600 for something I could do for $20.

[MikeOH]

2 hours ago, toto said:

I get very nervous trusting a gazillion dollars' worth of avionics to a cheap power adapter - I just carry an external battery pack.

Are you worried about the avionics in the panel?  If so, since the cigarette socket is fused, I'm curious what the risk you see is?

Frankly, after seeing that guy's plane burn to the ground after he boarded with an external battery pack he'd dropped on the way to the plane, I find the cheap power adaptor to present far less risk 

[LANCECASPER]

2 hours ago, toto said:

I get very nervous trusting a gazillion dollars' worth of avionics to a cheap power adapter - I just carry an external battery pack.

There are good power adaptors that don't interfere with any other devices in the cabin and provide clean DC power.

 

I would be more concerned about the battery pack:

https://asn.flightsafety.org/wikibase/386971        

https://www.binghamtonhomepage.com/news/local-news/watch-plane-catches-fire-at-hornell-airport/

[1980Mooney]

2 hours ago, PeterRus said:

I have something that looks like a standard cigarette lighter socket in the airplane and I was thinking that a USB-C power source is a better option for my purposes. I can see there are several options available that hopefully would fit in the space: remove the socket and replace with neat nice TSOd unit from the well-known company. List price is about $400 + avionics shop rate to install and wire + extra fuse in the panel. Let's call in an even $1k.

Another option is to buy a well-made USB-C adapter that fits in the cigarette light socket. Price is ~$15 for an USB-C that delivers about 20W per port -- should suffice for an iPad or iPhone. Simultaneously. 

The question: Are there any safety concerns with the $15 dollars of monies approach vs biting the $1k bullet? I  think the cigarette lighter does not a fuse for example. 

TIA.

 

1 hour ago, PeterRus said:

Found an old thread: 

The adapter I have ordered from Amazon: https://www.anker.com/products/a2720?variant=37438015111318&collections_wireless-car-chargers=undefined&Sort_by=Recommended#!

Another consideration is my airplane is 28V and some cigarette lighter plugs may be 12V. The one I have is marked 12V/24V input. 

Thanks everyone for replies. 

I don't know what year MSE you have, but the first ones starting with serial number 24-3144 had the "Cigar Lighter" on the same 10 A circuit breaker as the Ignition Switch (starter solenoid) and Tach.  I believe the later ones were also on a 10A breaker.  The POH (at least some of the later versions) showed the breaker labelled on the circuit breaker panel as "CIG LITR".  You mention a multi port adapter with 20A per port - watch your load or you will be popping the breaker.  Frequent tripping of the breaker will weaken it and make it trip more easily.  

If the circuit breaker was dedicated to the Lighter only it would be a non-issue but since it shares the Ignition Switch and the Tach, that is why some recommend putting the USB power supply on a separate dedicated circuit and breaker.  Just be prudent.

[PeterRus]

9 minutes ago, 1980Mooney said:

...You mention a multi port adapter with 20A per port ...

20W -- watts, not amps or about 4 amps per port.

[1980Mooney]

34 minutes ago, PeterRus said:

20W -- watts, not amps or about 4 amps per port.

My bad.  I can't read.....

[Bob E]

Although I have a TSO'd USB power source built into my panel, I use the cigarette lighter socket for auxiliary USB power, and found a nifty little adapter that also includes a carbon monoxide detector.  The CO detector has a digital readout (blue LED between the two sockets) as well as a very loud buzzer that goes off if it detects the presence of CO.  It's on whenever the master is on, and it works great.  I tested it by lighting a match a few feet away when the aircraft was in the hangar.  That triggered a warning in about 3 seconds when the indicator reached about 20 ppm.  Had it for almost 3 years now.  It's on Amazon for $34.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GCQR19G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Slick Nick]

6 hours ago, toto said:

I get very nervous trusting a gazillion dollars' worth of avionics to a cheap power adapter - I just carry an external battery pack.

This. I got a 4 pack of power banks pretty cheap too. They fit easily in the flight bag and last a LONG time. 

[bigmo]

Here’s the one I’m using with great results. I’ll say it’s a very nicely built unit. The all aluminum body ‘looks’ aircraft quality (sans the $400 price tag).

https://a.co/d/1hcp0M6

But, had I seen the option Bob posted with the built in CO2 detector, I would have gone that route…and might do so and move my current adapter to one of our cars. That’s a great compact solution and better than my goofy stick ons.

[Lax291]

Here's the newer version of the one I use and recommend:

Anker USB C Car Charger Adapter, 52.5W Cigarette Lighter USB Charger, iPhone 16 Car Charger with 30W PowerIQ 3.0 Fast Charging for iPhone 16/15/14/13 https://a.co/d/8wprXWn

 

Comes with USB A and C ports and is 12v/24v compatible. I did try the Sporty's version which had the digital bus voltage displayed on the front, and those did not work. Would not keep my iPad mini charged for some reason. 

[bigmo]

I ordered the one @Lax291 posted but returned it. It stuck out from the panel a bit too much for my liking. The Anker I posted above is short and fits the adapter and makes it look like a built in.

[M20F-1968]

If you keep your eye out, you can find a USB panel mount unit in the $100-200 range.  I found a used Stratus, 2 USB-B ports for $100 on ebay.  

The stratus needs only a proper hole size for the unit itself, no additional mounting holes (unit and face place hare sandwich the panel).  Has worked fine.

Prior to that, I had a cigarette lighter with an adapter which also worked without any radio interference.

John Breda

[Pinecone]

For a couple of years, I had a cigarette light plug in.  I used both an Anker (I have had very good service out of Anker products) and a built in USB-A in a Mid Continent  clock.  I also used a plug in that I got from Mountain High (the O2 people) that worked well.

When I did my panel upgrade I had Garmin USB-15 dual USB-C power outlets installed.  One on each side.

[dkkim73]

Went through a similar search earlier this year. I will probably come up with a more "definitive" solution with a mounted TSO'ed unit at some point (or at least something from the Dr. Know RF Encyclopedia), but I've used this one to good effect in the meantime: 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09G6D11PX/

Lots of plugs at various amperages and a voltage display. I put in the left-hand passenger adapter plug so it's out of the way, and route cables ad-hoc along my left side. I would eventually like to decrease cable clutter. 

One thing that may be helpful for load concerns: I looked at the schematic for the breaker/fuse rating and then replaced the standard "blade" fuse in the adapter with a smaller matching rating (most of these come standard with a bigger fuse than you want). Not very expensive and available at any auto parts store. 

HTH

D

[PT20J]

I put a Garmin USB in the right side of the panel for passengers when I redid my panel. But I didn’t fancy loose wires running around for my yoke-mounted iPad so had a True Blue aircraft charger mounted behind the panel and ran a USB cable below the yoke shaft where it is out of the way.

[Pinecone]

1 hour ago, PT20J said:

I put a Garmin USB in the right side of the panel for passengers when I redid my panel. But I didn’t fancy loose wires running around for my yoke-mounted iPad so had a True Blue aircraft charger mounted behind the panel and ran a USB cable below the yoke shaft where it is out of the way.

I run mine off a panel mount Garmin USB. But I have the cable routed to the left and then between the edge of the panel and the side wall.  Behind the panel, then a few turns around the yoke shaft. 

I found a cable that is almost flush, so you don't have that connector sticking out.  

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CCJLS4R5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1