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Posted

I have a propane turbo/bullet heater. It is noisy and has some smell. It works OK but not great in an un-insulated hangar. I run it with 2 20lb tanks in parallel. I’m thinking of replacing it with a catalytic cabinet style.

Posted
4 hours ago, larryb said:

I have a propane turbo/bullet heater. It is noisy and has some smell. It works OK but not great in an un-insulated hangar. I run it with 2 20lb tanks in parallel. I’m thinking of replacing it with a catalytic cabinet style.

Picked up one of these at Northern this morning for $120.  Freezing predicted for tonight.  Will try it soon.

https://www.amazon.com/Heater-Big-Buddy-Portable-Propane/dp/B00FPL6CNS

Posted (edited)
On 10/16/2022 at 7:04 AM, Pinecone said:

If a number of people change their own oil, look at a waste oil heater.  My FBO shop has one.  No cost to dispose of used oil, and heats the hangar.

Whatever you run in your hangar to heat, other than electric, mount a CO alarm to make sure.

The Lead content in used oil easily runs 5,000 - 10,000 PPM.  Your FBO must be insane.  They are vaporizing the lead into a confined space.  That is lawsuit just waiting to happen.  Hopefully no lawyers read MS.

Edited by 1980Mooney
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Posted
13 minutes ago, 1980Mooney said:

The Lead content in used oil easily runs 5,000 - 10,000 PPM.  Your FBO must be insane.  They are vaporizing the lead into a confined space.  That is lawsuit just waiting to happen.  Hopefully no lawyers read MS.

I hope it is based on a heat exchanger like a home furnace so that the breathing air does not mix with combustion exhaust.  Many jurisdictions would not permit the exhaust stack (to outside) with high lead content, though.  

Posted (edited)
23 minutes ago, Bolter said:

I hope it is based on a heat exchanger like a home furnace so that the breathing air does not mix with combustion exhaust.  Many jurisdictions would not permit the exhaust stack (to outside) with high lead content, though.  

Most of the references in this topic are to some kind of radiant, open flame, turbo/bullet or kerosene generally vintage exposed flame type heaters that are portable enough to evade the landlord. Being CB's some Mooney owners were probably thinking of this kind of waste oil burner.....    Let's hope you are right.

 

Edited by 1980Mooney
Posted
5 hours ago, 1980Mooney said:

The Lead content in used oil easily runs 5,000 - 10,000 PPM.  Your FBO must be insane.  They are vaporizing the lead into a confined space.  That is lawsuit just waiting to happen.  Hopefully no lawyers read MS.

The unit does not exhaust the combustion air into the hangar.

Posted
1 hour ago, carusoam said:

If the combustion is vented into the hangar….

Expect gallons of water to condense on the colder surfaces…

PP thoughts only…

-a- 

That is one problem with the Big Buddy heaters and other catalytic types. Lots of frost on things when you are done and it cools down in there.

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Posted
13 hours ago, carusoam said:

If the combustion is vented into the hangar….

Expect gallons of water to condense on the colder surfaces…

PP thoughts only…

-a- 

Not that I live in the Great White North but I’ve never noticed any of that. I have a humidistat in the hanger, two actually, I’ll watch that this Winter and see. 

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Posted
57 minutes ago, A64Pilot said:

Not that I live in the Great White North but I’ve never noticed any of that. I have a humidistat in the hanger, two actually, I’ll watch that this Winter and see. 

Steam is a primary combustion product with hydrocarbons.  The other is CO2.  In real life, there are also some other items, like CO, Nox, particulates, etc, but still mostly water and CO2.  

You can see this when you first start the car on a cold day, and you see vapor coming from the exhaust.  The steam cools to vapor from the cold exhaust pipe, but once the pipe is hot, it is back to invisible steam.  

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Posted

We heat our hangar with a solar beer can heater and solar hot water to the floor.  We only pay to pump the fluid.

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Posted
On 10/16/2022 at 7:47 PM, Fly Boomer said:

Not sure what the history behind this is, but my hangar has a single overhead LED cluster, and it shuts off automatically after a period.

Just that give someone “free” electricity and they will run an AC or lights 24/7 and run the bill up, then those that only ran it when they were there no longer are allowed.

Posted
1 hour ago, KSMooniac said:

How does that work Clarence?  If everything falls into place, I hope to start construction on my own hangar in 2023 and I want in-floor heating!

When we first built the hangar we installed the hydronic tubing but had no heat source until we finished the insulation and drywall.  The first heat source was an on demand under sink water heater with the pump controlled by a wall timer.  We set the timer to run for 30 minutes four times per day.  It kept the 40x50x16 hangar at 40-45 degrees for about $100 per month in winter.  We built a 32X2 solar collector with absorber plates from a MS member. This combined with our 300 can solar air heater has allowed us to turn off the water heater completely, only paying for electricity to run the pump and fan.

Posted
On 10/15/2022 at 7:42 PM, Fly Boomer said:

I think the city would have a fit if I glued a bunch of extruded polystyrene to the walls and door.  It’s probably in my rental contract.

Stick it to the walls with magnets and wire. 

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Posted

In the event you decide to use polystyrene or any other plastic foam material….

Be sure to check it’s flammability….

No special test required… try to light a piece of it on fire, in your fireplace…

If it has a flame resistant additive in it… it will probably self extinguish… or burn very slowly… 

If it doesn’t… expect it to continue burning, melt very quickly, and send burning drips splashing to the bottom… the pooling of liquid styrene can burn like gasoline…

PP thoughts only, not a UL94 safety guy…

Best regards,

-a-

 

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Posted
7 hours ago, Kelpro999 said:

Stick it to the walls with magnets and wire. 

Great idea!  I have thought about attaching 2x4 vertical members to the girts with vice grips so I could attach shelves and lighting to the 2x4s without modifying the wall.  For something as light as polystyrene, the magnets should do the job.

Posted
5 hours ago, Fly Boomer said:

 I have thought about attaching 2x4 vertical members to the girts with vice grips so I could attach shelves and lighting to the 2x4s without modifying the wall.  

Try C Clamps instead. They are more secure (can't be accidentally knocked off), and are cheap at places like Harbor Freight).

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Posted
13 hours ago, carusoam said:

In the event you decide to use polystyrene or any other plastic foam material….

Be sure to check it’s flammability….

No special test required… try to light a piece of it on fire, in your fireplace…

If it has a flame resistant additive in it… it will probably self extinguish… or burn very slowly… 

If it doesn’t… expect it to continue burning, melt very quickly, and send burning drips splashing to the bottom… the pooling of liquid styrene can burn like gasoline…

PP thoughts only, not a UL94 safety guy…

Best regards,

-a-

 

Also, make sure it is not a polyisocyanurate insulation foam.  While it does not readily ignite, when it does ignite one of the combustion products is hydrogen cyanide, which is toxic.

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Posted
1 hour ago, whiskytango said:

Also, make sure it is not a polyisocyanurate insulation foam.  While it does not readily ignite, when it does ignite one of the combustion products is hydrogen cyanide, which is toxic.

Thanks for the tip.  I need to do more research.

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