AIREMATT

This might answer your questions. I found to be very easy to use and edit to suit any model or Weight.

What about this? https://www.castlepackspower.com/Images_Content/Site1/Files/MSDSCastle/C2010-Plexo.pdf

Just. Homemade Numbers app spreadsheet on the iPad. My C isn’t too complicated though.

Here’s what I have if it helps. SAL12-70 Alternat Install and ICA Instructions.pdf

If you run the electrical system enough to run the battery down to 12v and then run the engine and alternator showing 14.2v for a while is your battery actually charging back up? Is it possible the alternator output isn’t getting to the battery and that’s why the warning light is on? Do you have the manual for the Plane Power alternator? It might help checking the warning lamp circuit. I have it if you need it.

It’s been like that all winter in MN and ND…forecasters up here would be more successful playing the roulette wheel this winter.

And you can’t opt out of most of those nanny sensors even if you want to…

Remember Valujet in the Everglades that had tires in the cargo hold that burned when a bundle of live oxygen generators that were supposed to be empty oxygen generators were activated? Lithium batteries have the same effect on burnable items if they have a thermal runaway. In the belly, you can’t do anything to stop it because the fire suppressant doesn’t cool and surround the batteries to keep them from burning everything in their proximity. Kind of like an EV catching fire and the fire department spraying water on it periodically while they let it burn for hours to let it burn itself out. Burning metal doesn’t go out with water sprayed on it very well unfortunately.

Put it back on the charger for a week. It may take a while to come back to good condition after fully running down and a couple days on the charger may not be enough time to build it back up. Might save you investing in a new battery.

Does the TBO even matter if the engine is still running well at 2000 or 2200 hours?

Not familiar with that issue. Can you explain what’s happening to the Cotter pins so I can watch for it? Thanks, Dan

Age of the unit only if it hadn’t been upgraded last O/H. I was told several things in the Slicks had been improved but you would not get those in an O/H, you had to get the new Slicks to get those benefits. I don’t have Slicks, so I didn’t pursue it further and don’t know what the changes include.

My Mag shop said O/H a Bendix because not much had changed, but replace and older Slick due to many upgrades over the years. O/H’d both Bendix and it wasn’t $400-500 each. It was about $1000 each in February for the O/H. Inflation I guess…? They sure run smoothly now though.

Looks nice! Should go quickly.

Mine has a similar SN but with a B on the end. I assume that is the SN suffix that negates the AD requirements?

For what it’s worth, there are updated Lycoming engine owners manuals since our 1960’s limited Owners Manuals came out. They have updated ideas on how to operate the engine and limitations. I think they are available in the downloads sections. If not google the Lycoming 0360 manual and it should give you options for the most current update.

Maybe instead of the usual routine, we need to figure out how to maintain our procedure and checklist discipline. I know, easier said than done, but checklists and procedures are designed for different routines like the guy ahead flying a 747 pattern in his Cub, or a “Turn a 5 mile final and follow the traffic” type variances from our routines. Not to mention the variety of instrument approaches and transitions we have the option to fly, these normal differences don’t even touch on an abnormal or emergency landing distraction.

If you make it to BDH you can have Oasis Aero look at it while you are getting the tanks resealed if you are still concerned about it.

I Think he meant blotchy, but the fat finger fairy got him like it has all of us at one time or another.

Harbor freight has moving blankets that are cheap enough to throw away rather than clean if something unpleasant happens. layout a couple of those with a plastic layer under them just in case and it will cover the back seats and can be raised up vertically along the back of the front seats and clipped or clamped there and you have a small area to contain everything. Still going to be a mess when it comes time to extricate the messy pooch but at least it is all contained and separated from the plane surfaces.

Just to be clear, it doesn’t mean use premium 91 octane car gas.

Or “as far as I know.”

Are posted results due to re-weighing or recomputing removals vs. additions?

Like listening to the ball game on the AM dial?

Option 3 - “Do I know if it still works?”