Who changes there own oil?

[Jeev]

So I was all pumped to get to know my new to me 20J by changing the oil and filter last week..... Took the top cowling off (easy) then started on the bottom.......  Didnt have my maintence manual with me and didnt want to screw up the cowl flaps...... so I ended up quitting and had my AP do it while he was upgrading some avionics....... I have been rebuilding old fords for a number of years (broncos / mustangs) so I concider myself mechanically inclined but I am also new to aircraft ownership and intimidated my screwing something up and it costing me $$$$$ or worse, a failure inflight....

For those of you who do it yourself any triks or do you leave it to the pros?  Above and beyond the cost benifit of doing it yourself (will be flying 30-40 hrs / month) I like the fact of getting to know my aircraft by doing minor (legal) maint.

My plan is to watch my AP do the next one and go from there.

Thanks!

SP

[GeorgePerry]

The best way to learn to perform maintenance is to ask your local shop if you can assist, or at least watch them perform the service.  Almost always the A&P will say yes.  After you see a "pro" change the oil, you'll be very comfortable doing it yourself.

If you fly 20-30 hours a month, you could probably stretch your oil change intervals out to 40+ hours, since you'll be adding a quart or so every 5-7 hours anyway and there won't be any issues with corrosion since the bird gets run regularly.

For what it's worth, I know how to alot of my own maintenance, but choose not to.  I supply the oil and filter to my local shop and have them do it, usually in conjunction with other routine maintenance or improvements.  It add's about 1/2 hour shop time, or 40 bucks to the bill, but it's worth my time not to have to mess with it.

[KSMooniac]

Definitely get the maintenance and parts manuals as a first step.  If your A&P is willing, then you might start out doing some MX activities as owner-assist so you can help and learn at the same time.

Having said that, the oil change is pretty straight-forward.  I'd recommend getting an oil filter torque wrench because there isn't a lot of room back there for a conventional torque wrench and socket.  You should also get an oil filter cutter for inpsection of the contents.  You'll also need safety wire and safety wire pliers.  The trickiest part is removing the filter without making a mess.  Currently I'm using an old oil container cut in half length-wise, and slip it under the filter to catch the oil.  You'll see what I mean once you give it a try.

Removing the lower cowl is pretty simple, but it helps to have an extra set of hands to wrestle it on and off without scratching the paint.  If you think you'll enjoy doing such work, then you might consider getting some spark plug tools (gapper, cleaner, etc) and a box of copper washers when you order the oil tools.

[Jeev]

Thanks for the info guys!  I will watch my shop do it and will prob just do it once and have them do it for convience like I have done with my cars  

Due to my IR training and my constant trips to So Cal I put 50hrs on her last month and had the oil changed at 50.5hrs.  It was dark but I do add 1qt about every 6hrs so I am good with 50hr or 4month intervals.

George, I am out of town and wondering if you went to Vegas and stole my plane..... Per your avtar you have the same paint job as me..... Good taste!!!

 

[Piloto]

I found that the best way to keep your oil clean when changing it is by:

1. Drain the oil one week after the last shut down. This will insure drainage of all the oil in the upper parts of the engine.

2. Close drain valve

3. Add one gallon of AVGAS into the oil pan thru the filler neck. This will liquify oil residues in the pan.

4. Replace oil filter.

5. After 15 min. open drain valve and drain completly the AVGAS/oil mix.

6. Close drain valve and fill-up pan with oil.

You will notice that after several hours run-up the oil will still be clear (semitransparent). This is good but makes it difficult to determine the oil level unless you have good light.

José

  

[laytonl]

I have finally got a process that minimizes the oil filter mess.  I do the "split an old oil container in half" routine.  Then I add a 1/4" plastic drain line to the bottom of the container and place that rig under the oil filter.  Once loosen the filter, the oil drains into the oil can and thru the tube to bucket.  I also stuff several newspapers under the filter to catch any drips.

Mooney maintenance is a pain, but worth the effort.

Lee

[Cruiser]

I change the "oil" every other 25hr. cycle and leave the filter alone. The filter gets changed by the A&P at the next 25hr. cycle. So the filter sees 50 hrs. and the oil only 25 hrs.

[DonMuncy]

I change mine also, but it is a K model, so many of my problems might not apply to you. 

I buy zip-lock plastic bags and slip one over the filter after loosening it, to catch the spillage.  This helps, but is still not fool proof.

I cut the filter can open at the hangar and take the filter element home in a plastic bag to let it stand on a piece of newspaper for a few days to let as much oil drain out as possible.  Then with sharp butcher knife, cut the filter material next to each metal end.  These things are tough, and it is more work than you would think.  You can then cut one "pleat" longways and stretch it out to look at whatever may be inside.

Don

[The-sky-captain]

If you are tired of getting oil all over the place when you sipn the filter off give this little baby a try.  I have yet to spill a drop while using it.

http://www.newpig.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product9_10651_10151_149515_-1_112229__107799__TLS703-Flexible-Funnel

 

[GeorgePerry]

Quote: Jeev

George, I am out of town and wondering if you went to Vegas and stole my plane..... Per your avtar you have the same paint job as me..... Good taste!!!

[Magnum]

I find the most challenging part removing and reinstalling (with safety wire) the oil screen. It is really tight there. Unfortunately the maintenance manual wants you to have it checked with every oil change.

[mjc]

Quote: The-sky-captain

If you are tired of getting oil all over the place when you sipn the filter off give this little baby a try.  I have yet to spill a drop while using it.

http://www.newpig.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product9_10651_10151_149515_-1_112229__107799__TLS703-Flexible-Funnel

 

[Mooney_Allegro]

I use to own a 1979 Piper Warrior II, and during the first few years I had the mechanics change my oil/filter, but after watching them for years, it looked fairly easy and I started doing it myself with their oversite for a few times until I felt comfortable doing it myself.  I always warmed the oil first for about 5 minutes, so the oil would flow out faster, and also after I finished, would runup the engine again then shutdown and check for leaks.  The hardest part for me was the safety wiring, AND cutting open the oil filter and checking for metal debris, which is a messy job.  Sometimes I would bring the oil filter home and it would sit there for days because I kept putting it off.  You have to be careful you don't cut yourself on the jagged edges when you pull out the filter element from the case.  I checked the suction screen a few times and the safety wiring is much harder for that.  You have to be sure you have a new crush gasket available. 

After having the Mooney for 2 years now, I finally did my first oil change myself with the help of an A&P with the lower cowling.  I spilled less oil than he did actually.  I preposition a bunch of papertowels in the cowling, which helps a lot and just take my time.  Again, cutting open the oil filter is probably the hardest part and cutting the filter element away from the metal cylinder.  I also always have an oil analysis done everytime.

[Theo]

I do about 3/4 of the work. I remove the cowling parts and drain the sump. Then my Mooney owing A&P swaps the filter and does his safety wire work. Then, while he cuts open the old one for inspection I put the new oil in, test run it for leaks, and put the cowling back on. They give me a big break on labor of course for this, and I don't have to mess with the filter and safety wire.

The way he does it nothing gets spilled. If I did it there would be oil everywhere.

[Kwixdraw]

I like that new pig funnel. Looks like a guy could make something similar with a piece of Baffle seal material. Nothing to add to the process but when it comes to cutting the filter element away from the ends I have seen and used a hacksaw with the balde ground down to a sharp edge. This works pretty good as you can steady the element with one hand and cut with the saw in the other.

[Immelman]

The one thing I can't seem to do is to replace the safety wire on the sump screen. I'm okay to remove it, and put it back in, just not safety it (I have an IO-360 with oil filter so the sump screen is usually pulled just once a year). I leave that job for my A&P. He winds up using some sort of piggy backed arrangement of pliers and wrenches to get the safety in place on that one due to how far in it is.

The oil filter safety, as easy as that is to access, still takes me 2-3 tries to get right.

[MooneyMitch]

"The oil filter safety, as easy as that is to access, still takes me 2-3 tries to get right."

You are not alone my friend!!