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Posted

So I believe my left side panel on my M20J is sagging about 1/4 inch lower then it should be. This is likely caused by worn “rubber screws?” That reduce pannel vibration? I remember reading these need to be replaced every 10 years or so. With glare shield likely coming off at annual for refurb, has anyone ever replaced these “screws” ? 
 

Whats the real name of these “screws”?

Where do I buy them?

What to expect in labor for replacement? 

Posted

Keep in mind, there are two sizes back there. Word on the street is, the ones available through McMaster Carr are better quality. 
 

also keep in mind, stud LENGTH is critical for a tight fit. There is only so much travel for the acorn nut. If stud is too long, the acorn nut tightens against its own head before pulling the panel tight. I have seen them Jimmy rigged with multiple washers or extra nuts but I don’t believe that’s correct…

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Posted

I have the same issue, but I looked at it years ago, and there are a few “U” standoffs that actually give you that critical alignment.

I think if you were to remove the “U” standoffs and resend them you could correct the alignment 

Posted

They usually have two different lengths of studs.  The longer screws into the panel sub structure, the shorter passes through the instrument panel.  The “U” shaped part is for panel grounding.

Clarence

Posted
On 3/3/2022 at 7:35 PM, N9656G said:

So I believe my left side panel on my M20J is sagging about 1/4 inch lower then it should be. This is likely caused by worn “rubber screws?” That reduce pannel vibration? I remember reading these need to be replaced every 10 years or so. With glare shield likely coming off at annual for refurb, has anyone ever replaced these “screws” ? 
 

Whats the real name of these “screws”?

Where do I buy them?

What to expect in labor for replacement? 

 

On 3/3/2022 at 10:08 PM, 201Steve said:

Keep in mind, there are two sizes back there. Word on the street is, the ones available through McMaster Carr are better quality. 
also keep in mind, stud LENGTH is critical for a tight fit. There is only so much travel for the acorn nut. If stud is too long, the acorn nut tightens against its own head before pulling the panel tight. I have seen them Jimmy rigged with multiple washers or extra nuts but I don’t believe that’s correct…

 

17 hours ago, M20Doc said:

They usually have two different lengths of studs.  The longer screws into the panel sub structure, the shorter passes through the instrument panel.  The “U” shaped part is for panel grounding.

Clarence

Exactly

The original shock mounts are made by Lord and about $18 each - brass/nonmagnetic studs I assume specified for the days of magnetic instruments.

Lord J-6984-64 Instrument Panel Shock-Mount at SkyGeek.com The shaft going through the instrument panel is shorter.

SGP118162_1_inset1__30340.1617171021.jpg?c=1

The ones referenced in Aircraft Spruce in are J-6984-1.  They are 1/8 inch too long. (the same length stud on each side)

10-14700s.jpg

Overview

Lord round instrument panel shock mount, as used in Cessna aircraft. Overall length 1-1/4". Rubber molded on 8-32 threaded projections. New manufacture.

There is a remedy - you can cut 1/8 inch off one side on each mount. 

Aircraft Spruce also has some cheap ones with ferrous studs. 

Looks like you may be a new "J" owner.

You might want to look at this: Page 614 (56-10-06, page 0)

mooney.free.fr/Manuels M20J/M20J/Mooney M20J Illustrated Parts Catalog.pdf

Also

mooney.free.fr/Manuels M20J/M20J/Mooney Service Manuel M20J Vol. 1 of 2.pdf

http://mooney.free.fr/Manuels M20J/M20J/Mooney Service Manuel M20J Vol. 2 of 2.pdf

 

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