413HM gets a much needed face lift

[carusoam]

I need to get a marauder memory upgrade!

The details complete with pics, perfect!

Best regards,

-a-

[bob865]

Time for an update.  Finally making some good progress.  Engine is almost ready for a test run and panels have been pulled for the annual.  Spent some time with them today getting caught up on the progress.  Several Shout outs to follow.  MooneySpace has been a part of this upgrade whether you know it or not. 

We replaced the main shock discs last year when we resealed the tanks.  We bought the discs but have been sitting on them because we didn't have the tool to do the nose wheel.  While she was down we made sure to get it done.

 

While they were working on the nose I saw the cowling and remembered the story of @chrixxer losing power and having an emergency and finding a piece of the ram air door seal had broken off.  Guess what I found??  Yep.  Mine was one operation or less from failing.  Pulled it from the cowl and talked to my mechanic and he is going get get some new material cut and get the door repaired.

 

Checked on a few other upgrades we did while it was down.  @OSUAV8TER helped me out with a new belly strobe replacing the old one. 

 

And @khedrei helped me out a while back with a replacement LED tail light too when he removed it during his upgrade.

 

The engine monitor if finally all in.  We still need to mount the tray holding the data receiver box.  Once we finish with the annual and do the shakedown flight on the engine, she'll go to the avionics shop for a new transponder, GPS, and second G5.

 

The tow holes on the right that held the tach, manifold pressure, and fuel pressure are going to get plugged.  I have a friend with a laser engraver and he made some plates for me. 

 

She's getting close.  Not too much longer.  She's been down since November.  Will be glad to finally have her back.

[carusoam]

Way cool with the laser engraver!

+1 for the Crixxer experience... this place IS a giant community....
 

For a really good seal material... consider talking to @GEE-BEE Guy Ginby.  Get a material that doesn’t oxidize and fall apart like ordinary rubber has a tendency to do...

 

Go MS!

Best regards,

-a-

[OSUAV8TER]

Looks great! 

[cctsurf]

21 hours ago, bob865 said:

The tow holes on the right that held the tach, manifold pressure, and fuel pressure are going to get plugged.  I have a friend with a laser engraver and he made some plates for me. 

 

She's getting close.  Not too much longer.  She's been down since November.  Will be glad to finally have her back.

Was just perusing the topic and saw these and thought they were hubcaps...  Need those on hubcaps... 

[carusoam]

@bob865,

See the note from guy G.... above regarding seal and seal material... for the air intake door...

Best regards,

-a-

[bob865]

On 8/7/2020 at 2:47 PM, cctsurf said:

Was just perusing the topic and saw these and thought they were hubcaps...  Need those on hubcaps... 

Hadn't thought about it.  I'm going to ask my buddy what the size limits are on his engraver.  If he can fit a hub cap, I might do just that. 

[bob865]

She's alive!  We fired her up for the first time today with huge success!  However we have a few small issues we found too.

I have to say, the Surefly ignition module made her start crazy easy!  Hot? Cold?  It didn't matter.  Key in, engine fire.  And no leaks on the first try.  A big success.  Even all the temp probes and pressures registered perfectly on the new EI CGR-30s the first try.  The problem?  No RPM!  None at all.  I spoke with EI a few times today trying to get it figured out.  The kit came with two isolaters, which are just a 79k and a 47k resistor.  We installed it with the 79k initially.  After speaking with support, they suggested we try the 47k.  Still no luck.  We shot the wires back all the way to the mags and to the pins on the EDC to verify that there wasn't an issue in the harness and found none.  After speaking with support again they suggested I send the config files for review for errors in the configuration.  They did find one and said they would send an updated config to correct, but felt sure it wouldn't solve my problem and that we would need to continue to try smaller resistors.

Has anyone else installed a CGR-30?  Or other EI unit?  Did you have any trouble with the RPM readout?  What resistor did you end up using to get it to work?

[Bartman]

Bob, to say I enjoyed this thread is an understatement. I lived your pain earlier this year with the engine, but did not tackle the other items you chose to address. You are right in that Mooneyspace is very powerful and this community helped me sooooo much both in research and reading about my issues, and also with helpful comments when I needed a little help or encouragement.

Can’t wait to see the finished product !

[bob865]

Thanks @Bartman.  I don't know how I would have gotten through some of this without mooneyspace.  It has saved us a huge amount of time at the least.  I ended up having to pull the EDC for the engine monitor and send to EI for repair.  Their support felt that the problem was in the inputs.  So that's where she sits today.  The AVI shop is supposedly going to pick her up today to start the GPS, G5, transponder, and audio panel install.  Getting closer everyday.  Now if Garmin would just certify the GFC500 for the E models 

[bob865]

She's in work.  Stopped by the airport yesterday and checked on the progress and to put the EDC that was back from Electronics International back into the plane.  All new cables for the antennas were pulled, the new transponder antenna was installed, the old loran antenna was removed, and he was starting to pull the cables and jacks for the audio panel.  Hopefully they'll finish up next week if the holiday doesn't cause too much of a delay.

Electronics International didn't find anything wrong in the EDC.  The RPM inputs checked fine on the bench.  This means I have something wrong in the wiring.  I'm guessing we are on the wrong terminals on the switch, but I can't really troubleshoot right now.  I've asked  the AVI shop to check it when they put her back together.

This did get me to thinking about odd things I did see when we started the engine.  We didn't do a full run up since we didn't have any RPM feedback, but did run it long enough to check for leaks etc.  We ran the governor and saw that it would adjust the prop, and checked the mag hookups to make sure they would ground and shutdown the engine, i.e. no hot mags.  There were a few odd things that I did notice during the short run that I haven't really looked into yet because I haven't really had time, but with her getting close to coming out of the shop I'm starting to contemplate.

The first is the engine appears to run massively rich at idle.  With the mix set to full rich the engine stutters and gasps.  If I pull the mix back to about half way, it smooths out and runs like a champ.  Unfortunately I can't answer if it runs smooth at higher RPMs at full rich or not right now.

The second things that I noticed is the oil pressure is at the bottom of green arc at idle, but it increased with RPM.  Again, I don't know what the RPM was, but as the RPM increased it drifted into the upper yellow arc.  I brought it back down to idle before I went any higher.

Do these sound like normal new engine startup issues? 

[carusoam]

Nothing looks better than a pair of EI CGRs... indicating full fuel!  

Best regards,

-a-

[kmyfm20s]

On 7/21/2020 at 6:50 AM, Marauder said:

Dude! Nice! You are missing one significant upgrade. Those 1975 Mongo yokes need to go!

I love those Mongo yokes:) I vote to keep them!

[bob865]

Just minor update.  Equipment is starting to appear in the panel!

 

P.S:  The Mongo yokes are going no where!  I love them!  And so unique.

[bob865]

She's Alive!

[kmyfm20s]

On 9/5/2020 at 12:33 PM, bob865 said:

She's in work.  Stopped by the airport yesterday and checked on the progress and to put the EDC that was back from Electronics International back into the plane.  All new cables for the antennas were pulled, the new transponder antenna was installed, the old loran antenna was removed, and he was starting to pull the cables and jacks for the audio panel.  Hopefully they'll finish up next week if the holiday doesn't cause too much of a delay.

Electronics International didn't find anything wrong in the EDC.  The RPM inputs checked fine on the bench.  This means I have something wrong in the wiring.  I'm guessing we are on the wrong terminals on the switch, but I can't really troubleshoot right now.  I've asked  the AVI shop to check it when they put her back together.

This did get me to thinking about odd things I did see when we started the engine.  We didn't do a full run up since we didn't have any RPM feedback, but did run it long enough to check for leaks etc.  We ran the governor and saw that it would adjust the prop, and checked the mag hookups to make sure they would ground and shutdown the engine, i.e. no hot mags.  There were a few odd things that I did notice during the short run that I haven't really looked into yet because I haven't really had time, but with her getting close to coming out of the shop I'm starting to contemplate.

The first is the engine appears to run massively rich at idle.  With the mix set to full rich the engine stutters and gasps.  If I pull the mix back to about half way, it smooths out and runs like a champ.  Unfortunately I can't answer if it runs smooth at higher RPMs at full rich or not right now.

The second things that I noticed is the oil pressure is at the bottom of green arc at idle, but it increased with RPM.  Again, I don't know what the RPM was, but as the RPM increased it drifted into the upper yellow arc.  I brought it back down to idle before I went any higher.

Do these sound like normal new engine startup issues? 

If you haven’t figured out your RPM issue you will need between a 16K-18K resistor to replace the EI inline isolator for the P-lead pickup. I just installed a SureFly ignition and have an EI MVP-50. Through a lot of trail and error I believe mine was a 14.6k resistor. I will check today and report back but I had to put 2 resistors in series to get the correct ohm. 

[bob865]

9 hours ago, kmyfm20s said:

If you haven’t figured out your RPM issue you will need between a 16K-18K resistor to replace the EI inline isolator for the P-lead pickup. I just installed a SureFly ignition and have an EI MVP-50. Through a lot of trail and error I believe mine was a 14.6k resistor. I will check today and report back but I had to put 2 resistors in series to get the correct ohm. 

Thank you so much!  I haven't been able to troubleshoot because she's been in the avi shop this whole time.  The last word I got back from EI was to go down to 4k, but if you can let me know where you got it to work I'd rather have first hand knowledge instead of, "try 4k."  I'm hoping they'll finish up the avi work next week and I can start working on this again.  Do you know what you ended up using for your stock slick mag?

[carusoam]

Coming together nicely..!

-a-

[kmyfm20s]

13 hours ago, bob865 said:

Thank you so much!  I haven't been able to troubleshoot because she's been in the avi shop this whole time.  The last word I got back from EI was to go down to 4k, but if you can let me know where you got it to work I'd rather have first hand knowledge instead of, "try 4k."  I'm hoping they'll finish up the avi work next week and I can start working on this again.  Do you know what you ended up using for your stock slick mag?

That is want EI told me also, 4K. I’m going to call them Monday and let them know my findings. SureFly was on the right track when they told me 18K. You want 1/2 watt resistors which you can order resistors variety packs on amazon. I had some resistors available to me and had to put 2 in a series 9.4K and 6.6K as measured with an ohm meter for a total of 16K.  Not sure what the label resistance was since they where given to me. Once the 2 resistor where solder together they measured 19.6K. When testing I just twisted them in series and on to the p-lead wire once I was confident they were soldered.

My other mag is a Bendix and just uses the EI isolator provided by them. 

Im sure you already know this but the voltage output of a magneto will fry your EDC (Computer) if you do not have an isolated in place. With the SureFly it luckily didn’t Fry mine and it shouldn’t have with a straight connection but I didn’t get an rpm reading. Now I just need to go get mine signed off and fly it:)

Edited September 27, 2020 by kmyfm20s

[bob865]

She's finally done!  Picked her up from the AVI shop yesterday and put her on the scales.  Was able to work on the RPM issue again and finally got it resolved.  Turns out the right mag was on the wrong contact on the switch.  I moved it and it immediately started working.  The left mag, I had to go down to an 8k resistor to get it to work, but it works too!  Gave her a shakedown flight and all seems to be good....mostly.

We did find a few squawks, but I think that's to be expected with so much equipment.  We have a loose connection to an EGT probe and to the manifold pressure sensor and a small adjustment needed for the governor.  I can't get it past 2600 RPM.

She's a extremely capable plane now.  And when/if Garmin ever certifies the GFC500 for the E models, she'll be unstoppable.

[carusoam]

Great pics, Bob!

14 hours ago, bob865 said:

She's finally done! 

I thought I was the optimist!  

Best regards,

-a-

[AerostarDriver]

@bob865 Did you have to rebalance the rudder when installing the Orion 500? I got mine in the mail yesterday and I am finding it is much heavier then the Whelen A550 I am replacing.

[bob865]

14 hours ago, AerostarDriver said:

@bob865 Did you have to rebalance the rudder when installing the Orion 500? I got mine in the mail yesterday and I am finding it is much heavier then the Whelen A550 I am replacing.

No.  I had no issues with it.  Bolt in replacement for me.