Joe Larussa Posted December 30, 2017 Report Posted December 30, 2017 Anyone know of a good Mooney mechanic in the Monterey area? Need someone with experience in installing a mag.
DonMuncy Posted December 30, 2017 Report Posted December 30, 2017 Although a Mooney savvy mechanic is good, installing and timing a mag is not difficult for most any A&P. If after it is installed and timed, the problem is not resolved, then you may need a good A&P. 1
Guest Posted December 30, 2017 Report Posted December 30, 2017 It been said here before, make sure it’s installed with new gaskets, new lock washers, a torque wrench and new style clamps if it’s a D3000 dual mag. Clarence
Hank Posted December 30, 2017 Report Posted December 30, 2017 When my mag came back from being overhauled (twice), it came with a new gasket (each time). Not sure if the nuts came with it or not, but the A&P brought a gasket just in case; it was almost an hour's drive for him. 1
bradp Posted December 31, 2017 Report Posted December 31, 2017 I believe the dual mag is used on Cessna 177s so they aren’t mooney specific maintenance items. Just need a mechanic who knows what Clarence said. I had a mag come back with a nut loose after annual. If retimed to the engine I check the torques myself.
jetdriven Posted December 31, 2017 Report Posted December 31, 2017 (edited) It’s not very hard at all to change. In fact it’s the same as installing a single Bendix magneto just happens to have two magnetos inside the housing. In a not shell you set the engine timing to 25° which is very easy on these as there is a mark on the flywheel and a dot on the starter. As well as the lines on the back of the flywheel that align to the spine of the crankcase. Then you line up the red mark on the white plastic gear thru the viewing port, then insert the timing pin to lock the mag like that in place then stab the mag and tighten. Do not turn the prop until that pin is removed. Thn check timing with buzz box. Obviously this is a high level overview. Use a rated mechanic and the SMM and Lycoming’s service bulletins about these. Use the exact correct clamps, gasket, washer and lock washer stacking. One thing I learned. Place permatex aviation sealer on the mag side of the gasket and wheel bearing grease on the opposite side of the gasket. Next year when you bump the mag it won’t tear the gasket and leak. Also. Torque seal. If it’s broken be suspicious of reused star washers. Edited December 31, 2017 by jetdriven 2 1
N601RX Posted December 31, 2017 Report Posted December 31, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, jetdriven said: It’s not very hard at all to change. In fact it’s the same as installing a single Bendix magneto just happens to have two magnetos inside the housing. In a not shell you set the engine timing to 25° which is very easy on these as there is a mark on the flywheel and a dot on the starter. As well as the lines on the back of the flywheel that align to the spine of the crankcase. Then you line up the red mark on the white plastic gear thru the viewing port, then insert the timing pin to lock the mag like that in place then stab the mag and tighten. Do not turn the prop until that pin is removed. Thn check timing with buzz box. Obviously this is a high level overview. Use a rated mechanic and the SMM and Lycoming’s service bulletins about these. Use the exact correct clamps, gasket, washer and lock washer stacking. One thing I learned. Place permatex aviation sealer on the mag side of the gasket and wheel bearing grease on the opposite side of the gasket. Next year when you bump the mag it won’t tear the gasket and leak. Also. Torque seal. If it’s broken be suspicious of reused star washers. Add one more step that sometimes gets messed up. Be sure you are on the compression stroke. Edited December 31, 2017 by N601RX 1
Guest Posted December 31, 2017 Report Posted December 31, 2017 18 hours ago, jetdriven said: It’s not very hard at all to change. In fact it’s the same as installing a single Bendix magneto just happens to have two magnetos inside the housing. In a not shell you set the engine timing to 25° which is very easy on these as there is a mark on the flywheel and a dot on the starter. As well as the lines on the back of the flywheel that align to the spine of the crankcase. Then you line up the red mark on the white plastic gear thru the viewing port, then insert the timing pin to lock the mag like that in place then stab the mag and tighten. Do not turn the prop until that pin is removed. Thn check timing with buzz box. Obviously this is a high level overview. Use a rated mechanic and the SMM and Lycoming’s service bulletins about these. Use the exact correct clamps, gasket, washer and lock washer stacking. One thing I learned. Place permatex aviation sealer on the mag side of the gasket and wheel bearing grease on the opposite side of the gasket. Next year when you bump the mag it won’t tear the gasket and leak. Also. Torque seal. If it’s broken be suspicious of reused star washers. I think that you’re mixing procedures from Slick and Bendix magnetos. Slicks use a timing pin and have no visible painted teeth. Bendix have painted teeth and don’t use a timing pin. Clarence
jetdriven Posted December 31, 2017 Report Posted December 31, 2017 That piece above is what I was referring to. It’s not so much a pin as a gear holding lock.
Andy95W Posted December 31, 2017 Report Posted December 31, 2017 Continental/Bendix has been saying we aren't supposed to use those in order to protect against broken teeth.
VetRepp Posted January 1, 2018 Report Posted January 1, 2018 Terry McKenna - at United aviation, Watsonville (WVI) 1
Guest Posted January 1, 2018 Report Posted January 1, 2018 12 hours ago, Andy95W said: Continental/Bendix has been saying we aren't supposed to use those in order to protect against broken teeth. Exactly what I was taught. I made a holding tool for Bendix mags out of a piece of vinyl tube, it’s softer than the gear so no worry of damage and being hollow allows you to see the painted tooth. Clarence
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