carusoam Posted January 28, 2018 Report Posted January 28, 2018 Some washers have that split for a reason... Spring loaded, anti slip, locking action possibly...? A similar example is on the battery terminals... PP Thinking out loud. Best regards, -a- Quote
Pictreed Posted January 29, 2018 Author Report Posted January 29, 2018 On 1/27/2018 at 4:51 PM, carusoam said: That's the before pic... Under all the oxidation is probably a nice copper colored shine waiting to come through! Got an after pic to go with that? Best regards, -a- Only assembled. Although it needs a new rubber boot. Quote
Pictreed Posted January 29, 2018 Author Report Posted January 29, 2018 Starter is installed and sealed up. Quote
Pictreed Posted January 29, 2018 Author Report Posted January 29, 2018 On 1/14/2018 at 11:43 PM, M20Doc said: The safety wire on the Inter-Av alternator mounting bolt is missing. Clarence Gotcha covered. Hopefully I did that right. Quote
RLCarter Posted January 29, 2018 Report Posted January 29, 2018 7 minutes ago, Pictreed said: Gotcha covered. Hopefully I did that right. backwards Quote
cbarnes403 Posted January 29, 2018 Report Posted January 29, 2018 6 minutes ago, Pictreed said: Gotcha covered. Hopefully I did that right. Sorry, but that is backwards Bring the wire through the bolt and point it in the direction it will be secured. The wire going over the top of the bolt needs to go on the right side of the head. Quote
Guest Posted January 29, 2018 Report Posted January 29, 2018 (edited) 23 hours ago, Pictreed said: Starter is installed and sealed up. The safety wire on the mounting bolt for the alternator is still missing in this picture. In many cases the mounting bolt is wired to the brace bolt on the starter. As others have said, the safety wire on the tension arm in your other picture is backwards. “Leftie loose” “righty tightly” Clarence Edited January 30, 2018 by M20Doc Quote
Pictreed Posted January 29, 2018 Author Report Posted January 29, 2018 I'll get it fixed and repost. I'll have to look at the mounting bolt. I didn't remember a wire being on there but maybe it's on the back side. Quote
cbarnes403 Posted January 29, 2018 Report Posted January 29, 2018 Looking at the photo again, either the belt is really to tight or you need a shorter/new belt. It looks like there isn't any more adjustment on the alternator arm for the belt Also looks like the belt is riding low in the grooves. Just an observation. Quote
Guest Posted January 30, 2018 Report Posted January 30, 2018 These two bolts are the ones I’m referring to. The one in the alternator has provision for safety wire. As it goes into a blind hole in the mounting bracket it should be secured. Clarence Quote
Pictreed Posted January 30, 2018 Author Report Posted January 30, 2018 2 hours ago, cbarnes403 said: Looking at the photo again, either the belt is really to tight or you need a shorter/new belt. It looks like there isn't any more adjustment on the alternator arm for the belt Also looks like the belt is riding low in the grooves. Just an observation. It is adjusted right and has more room but I’ll replace the belt next time the prop is serviced. Quote
Pictreed Posted January 30, 2018 Author Report Posted January 30, 2018 Hopefully this is the right direction. If not, well I’m having fun and will do it again. Quote
Yetti Posted January 30, 2018 Report Posted January 30, 2018 10 hours ago, Pictreed said: Hopefully this is the right direction. If not, well I’m having fun and will do it again. The next person is going to hate you. You want to bend the end over so you don't slice a hand/finger. Quote
Yetti Posted January 30, 2018 Report Posted January 30, 2018 On 1/28/2018 at 7:37 PM, Pictreed said: Only assembled. Although it needs a new rubber boot. Nope. nut. wire Lug terminal. washer. split ring lock washer. Nut. 1 Quote
Yetti Posted January 30, 2018 Report Posted January 30, 2018 some people would delete the first nut. Quote
Yetti Posted January 30, 2018 Report Posted January 30, 2018 (edited) And others may have differing thoughts, The washer on the bolt for the alternator adjustment arm may cause it to slip. Most I have seen on cars don't have the washer. Edited January 30, 2018 by Yetti Quote
DonMuncy Posted January 30, 2018 Report Posted January 30, 2018 14 hours ago, Pictreed said: Hopefully this is the right direction. If not, well I’m having fun and will do it again. I hate to nit pick, and I can't tell for sure, but it looks like it may be (technically) possible for the wire in the slot could slide down and allow the bolt to turn counter-clockwise. It looks like the twisted section may be about one twist too long. And yes, the sharp end needs to be turned back under to avoid catching on fingers, etc. Quote
carusoam Posted January 30, 2018 Report Posted January 30, 2018 6 hours ago, Yetti said: Nope. nut. wire Lug terminal. washer. split ring lock washer. Nut. Thanks Yetti, I was looking for a reference for that... it appears, to a PP... 1) New batteries have nicely shaped posts eliminating the need for a first nut. 2) for Best electrical contact, the lug terminal would want to be making good surface contact with the battery post. 3) The split washer is a locking device. Keeping rotation from occurring. Best if used to stop the nut from rotating. 4) also consider using battery terminal grease to keep oxidation from occurring between the post and the wire's lug terminal. 5) If Using SS hardware, Know that the electrical and thermal resistance of SS, is higher than other materials... 6) follow the logic of putting the lowest electrical resistance between the wire and the battery. Rely more on contact surface than point of contact. Keep all the contact surfaces from oxidizing... PP thoughts only, check with your mechanic on this one... Best regards, -a- Quote
Yetti Posted January 30, 2018 Report Posted January 30, 2018 cept that is a solenoid. I hate metal can solenoids. I have replaced more metal cans than bakelite ones. Note the surface of the post on the solenoid is a larger contact surface that the nut the lug is contacting in the picture. Don't go crazy torquing the outer nut otherwise you will twist the post. Hence the split ring lock washer. Normally I use a nut driver to install that way you can't over torque the post and spin it. Quote
cbarnes403 Posted January 31, 2018 Report Posted January 31, 2018 13 hours ago, Yetti said: The next person is going to hate you. You want to bend the end over so you don't slice a hand/finger. Thats a lot better, but just nit picking, I would reduce the number of twist by 3 or 4. But it looks correct and put a hook on the end wire so you don't snag it later. Quote
Pictreed Posted February 1, 2018 Author Report Posted February 1, 2018 All good advice and info. I see what you guys are saying, shorten the twists so the brace on the backside keeps the wire from moving. Is the safety wire there to keep it from moving at all or just unscrewing completely? I thought it was just to keep it in place if it did back out a bit. I've rebuilt a few VW engines but of course they don't have them. Not nit picking at all...I've been told by everyone to get rid of the jabbing hazard. That copper washer is 'convex' that came off an old battery but you guys think I need a lock washer on top of that one? Anthony or whoever suggested the electric grease, I picked some up today to keep that thing clean from now on. Shouldn't you leave the lower nut as a 'hold back'? I didn't know it's that sensitive. Hope I didn't already ruin it but I don't think I got it that tight till I got the grease on it. I was going to use dielectric compound I had but picked up the Dow stuff instead...not sure of the difference. I love this community. Sometimes pride is a hard pill to swallow but the advice is good. Thanks guys. 1 Quote
DonMuncy Posted February 1, 2018 Report Posted February 1, 2018 1 hour ago, Pictreed said: Is the safety wire there to keep it from moving at all or just unscrewing completely? It should be under tension, such that if the bolt wanted to unscrew, it can not move. Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted February 1, 2018 Report Posted February 1, 2018 (edited) On 1/30/2018 at 6:04 AM, Yetti said: Nope. nut. wire Lug terminal. washer. split ring lock washer. Nut. On 1/30/2018 at 6:07 AM, Yetti said: some people would delete the first nut. The first nut is to hold the stud into the solenoid. The second nut is to hold the lug on. Without the first nut all tightening force on the lug goes onto the insulator. It really needs the first nut. It should have a lock washer or a locknut as the second nut. Ideally both nuts and the washers are copper to avoid dissimilar metal corrosion. Edited February 1, 2018 by N201MKTurbo Quote
Pictreed Posted March 19, 2018 Author Report Posted March 19, 2018 Annual done but after when we were getting ready for test flight I found right tank empty. When I got back from the test flight I had a 1 second drip from the right tank under the fuselage. I took out the interior on that side I found some gooey putty round what must have been a pretty good leak. The putty wasn't noticeable until I removed the top layer and the fuel really started to flow. I knew it had a leak and needed to be fixed but I guess I can't wait now. htt bTv9ynZaSF6xZEaZ4W4NKg.MOV Quote
Pictreed Posted March 19, 2018 Author Report Posted March 19, 2018 Now i need to figure out Houston or Minnesota for the repair. 1 Quote
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