A few annual questions

[TheTurtle]

1.  how many flap pumps are there?  I thought there was just one but I see a second one as well.  One has the adjustment nut/screw to slow the flap retract speed.  That one is more forward.  Theres a second one that looks like its connected to the flaps more directly towards the back.  See pic#1.  My "forward" pump is leaking.  is that the one that lasar has the rebuild kit for?  The one towards the back is barely accessible even with the belly panels off so Im glad it's not leaking!.

2.  67 M20F manual gear.  How may zircs on the nose and main gears?  I found 9 on the nose and one of those is impossible to get a gun  in to (last pic).  Im hoping when we swing the gear it will become accessible.  I greased 6 (1-6) on the main gears.

3.  I pulled one of the zircs out of the main gear.  Its the one against the spar aft of the wheel well.  Can I just get a new one and bang it in there somehow?  Going to be tight trying to work in there.

and last but not least..  Man that is a lot of screws.

Annual has gone well.  IA is making me get the mags inspected because they havent been in 1700 hours and the timing was a little off.  He also didnt like my compass mount so I have to use a padded one for vibration resistance.  He also found that my ELT has no shock meter so I got another from a mooneyspacer. Other than that no squawks.

[Raptor05121]

Flaps should be 4.5 pumps to get 33* of deflection

Keep up the work. The bits look pretty dirty. If I find a day off, I get on my mechanic's crawler and I clean up my landing gear bays, etc. Makes it easier to spot leaks and stuff.

What are all the counter-sunkscrews for? Looks like you took out the inspection panels under the wings?

[TheTurtle]

4 minutes ago, Raptor05121 said:

Flaps should be 4.5 pumps to get 33* of deflection

Keep up the work. The bits look pretty dirty. If I find a day off, I get on my mechanic's crawler and I clean up my landing gear bays, etc. Makes it easier to spot leaks and stuff.

What are all the counter-sunkscrews for? Looks like you took out the inspection panels under the wings?

all the inspection panels came off.  My IA was persnickity about looking for corrosion.  Im scrubbing as I go along.  Keep finding more dirt.  Pretty sure this thing hasnt gotten a real cleaning since it was painted 20 years ago.

[Raptor05121]

Good luck putting them back on, I've been down the road.

I'm told the larger panels are manufacturing close-out panels and once you check for corrosion, should have no reason to open ever again, so that's less work for next year

[Guest]

1 hour ago, Raptor05121 said:

Good luck putting them back on, I've been down the road.

I'm told the larger panels are manufacturing close-out panels and once you check for corrosion, should have no reason to open ever again, so that's less work for next year

How do you inspect the plane without removing the inspection covers? The amount of work can be reduced by choosing correct length screws.  Most Mooneys I've encountered have been assembled with loads of incorrect screws.

Clarence

[tony]

There is one pump, located underneath the passenger seat and one actuator underneath the rear seat.  Your "rear pump" picture is actually the actuator.  I just had my actuator rebuilt, it was leaking.  Common parts you can get at spruce. 

[TheTurtle]

4 minutes ago, tony said:

There is one pump, located underneath the passenger seat and one actuator underneath the rear seat.  Your "rear pump" picture is actually the actuator.  I just had my actuator rebuilt, it was leaking.  Common parts you can get at spruce. 

not sure how I missed that in the maint manual.  You are right.

So it looks like the pump handle, via rods pushes the plunger in the pump.  This pumps fluid into the cylinder which moves the flaps.

Releasing the release control, connected by the bike cable to the pump, opens the valve and allows the fluid to flow back from the cylinder and then wind pressure plus the springs on the flaps pull them back to the up position.

What I dont see on the diagram is an additional bike cable I think I saw going to the cylinder and how it is actuated.

 

[tony]

9 minutes ago, TheTurtle said:

 

What I dont see on the diagram is an additional bike cable I think I saw going to the cylinder and how it is actuated.

 

The  cable on the actuator, moves the flap position indicator in the cockpit.  Very high tech!

Edited January 2, 2017 by tony

[TheTurtle]

Just now, tony said:

The additional cable on the actuator, moves the flap position indicator in the cockpit.  Very high tech!

Ahhh.!!!!  now its all coming together in my head.  This is great.  Learning more about the plane every day!

[TheTurtle]

another question for the mooniacs.  In the SMM it says the nosewheel shock absorber needs to be lubed with triflo?  First I dont see a shock on the nose wheel.  Just the obvious pucks which I didnt think get lubed...  Further it doesnt say to lube the shock absorber on the main gears so they arent talking about the pucks.  what shock absorber?

 

[Bob_Belville]

There are 2 grease fitting on the nose gear that are accessible by partially retracting gear. I bought my own set of jacks this year and have had the plane up for several weeks. It's really convenient to be able to move the gear for various tasks.

Not all wing panel have to be removed. The Service manual has a diagram identifying the ones to remove. There's 6 (7?) on each wing.

[Bob_Belville]

The shock absorber on the nose gear was to dampen vibration in the steering mechanism. It was removed by SI (SB?) several years ago. You probably had a curious mounting tab with a hole in it still on the gear.

[TheTurtle]

Just now, Bob_Belville said:

There are 2 grease fitting on the nose gear that are accessible by partially retracting gear. I bought my own set of jacks this year and have had the plane up for several weeks. It's really convenient to be able to move the gear for various tasks.

Not all wing panel have to be removed. The Service manual has a diagram identifying the ones to remove. There's 6 (7?) on each wing.

so there are 10 total on the nose?  I dont mind going on a hunt but if you dont know how many to look for it makes it hard!! 

I dont have jack stands for the plane yet.  its on the ever lengthening list of things I need (want).

My IA wanted to open them all up this time since the plane is new to both of us. 

[Bob_Belville]

Just now, TheTurtle said:

so there are 10 total on the nose?  I dont mind going on a hunt but if you dont know how many to look for it makes it hard!! 

I dont have jack stands for the plane yet.  its on the ever lengthening list of things I need (want).

My IA wanted to open them all up this time since the plane is new to both of us. 

10 sounds right. (I just greased mine but I've slept since then.

I'm sure you identified the panels under the fuel tank and skipped those!

[TheTurtle]

Just now, Bob_Belville said:

10 sounds right. (I just greased mine but I've slept since then.

I'm sure you identified the panels under the fuel tank and skipped those!

hah yea!!  I didnt even get close.  My IA had to remove a the little ovals on the leading edge inboard of the tanks himself because I was scared to get anywhere near them gas tanks.  Theres a guide block in there that has to be greased though.

[neilpilot]

It's best to have the weight off the tires (i.e. on jacks) when greasing the gear.

[Bob_Belville]

If you have a compressor in the hangar, you might want to get a air power grease gun. Northern Tool has one for under $30, only $10 bucks more than the hand pump type. There are gear fittings that take 3 hands but are much easier with the pneumatic gun. Also, there are a couple of style tips. The kind the are metal and can be tightened around the fitting by twisting the nozzle work great compared to the plastic gripper. interchangable tips @ auto part store. 

[tony]

Just now, Bob_Belville said:

If you have a compressor in the hangar, you might want to get a air power grease gun. Northern Tool has one for under $30, only $10 bucks more than the hand pump type. There are gear fittings that take 3 hands but are much easier with the pneumatic gun. Also, there are a couple of style tips. The kind the are metal and can be tightened around the fitting by twisting the nozzle work great compared to the plastic gripper. interchangable tips @ auto part store. 

I bought the same one.  I love it.

[TheTurtle]

Just now, Bob_Belville said:

If you have a compressor in the hangar, you might want to get a air power grease gun. Northern Tool has one for under $30, only $10 bucks more than the hand pump type. There are gear fittings that take 3 hands but are much easier with the pneumatic gun. Also, there are a couple of style tips. The kind the are metal and can be tightened around the fitting by twisting the nozzle work great compared to the plastic gripper. interchangable tips @ auto part store. 

Oh I have one   Cant be pumping like an idiot with one hand backwards with greasy fingers.  Ive been using an airgun for years. 

[TheTurtle]

4 minutes ago, neilpilot said:

It's best to have the weight off the tires (i.e. on jacks) when greasing the gear.

ugh, i actually read that yesterday AFTER I greased them all...  (well minus the 2 hidden ones)

[Bob_Belville]

Be sure to check the bolts at each Heim bearing. I found about 4 of mine that I could tighten a quarter turn this year. 

[TheTurtle]

19 minutes ago, Bob_Belville said:

The shock absorber on the nose gear was to dampen vibration in the steering mechanism. It was removed by SI (SB?) several years ago. You probably had a curious mounting tab with a hole in it still on the gear.

perfect thanks.  I do seem to recall that tab.

[Hank]

1 hour ago, Bob_Belville said:

10 sounds right. (I just greased mine but I've slept since then.

I'm sure you identified the panels under the fuel tank and skipped those!

Oh you lucky guys! My (electric) C has eleven (11) zirks on the nose gear and eight (8) on each main. I've always greased them on the ground, may have to try on jacks during annual this month. In 10 annuals, I've broken off one, way up high on the nose gear. Let my A&P replace it, it marked the end of a frustrating evening working on the plane . . . .

Edited January 2, 2017 by Hank

[Oldguy]

3 hours ago, M20Doc said:

How do you inspect the plane without removing the inspection covers? The amount of work can be reduced by choosing correct length screws.  Most Mooneys I've encountered have been assembled with loads of incorrect screws.

Clarence

Clarence has a very valid point on screw length. There was a posting in here (don't recall which one) where the wrong length screw was used and essentially cut into one of the control rods. When I pull the inspection covers to assist on my annual, I remove all the screws except one, which is loosened, swing the inspection cover out of the way and reinstall the other screws a couple of turns or so to prevent them from falling out and getting lost.

But isn't helping on your annual a great way to learn about your machine? Especially on the first annual after you buy it!

[Bob_Belville]

I believe you only need to remove wing panels 12, 13, 14, & 16 = 6 per side for inspection and some lube. 

page 2-15 REV. D 8/1/81

MAN106 C,E,F,G.pdf