How to change the oil?

[TheTurtle]

I'm trying to find a good step by step on changing the oil and filter on a M20F.

Searching the forums hasnt turned up anything great but my search-fu may be weak.

I did find this out on the interwebs and its pretty good, but something with more pics and details would work

http://www.n252q.com/2007/09/how-to-change-oil-on-mooney.html

Edited September 30, 2016 by TheTurtle

[carusoam]

Look for the tools people use for changing oil.  formable funnels and PVC pipe are often involved.  A company called P.I.G. is a manufacturer of some things used by Mooniacs.

filter cutters and oil sampling methods are interesting.  What lab they send their oil sample to, like black Rock?

Work on your MS-fu.... The details, to you, will be revealed... 

Best regards,

-a-

[TTaylor]

Always use an outside search engine for MooneySpace, the internal search almost never works.  I use google and include MooneySpace in the search.

 

 

 

[Mooneymite]

The "drip less oil filter change".

Edited September 30, 2016 by Mooneymite

[Hank]

That's pretty slick, Gus! Nicer than my rig . . .

Edited September 30, 2016 by Hank

[ArtVandelay]

The "drip less oil filter change".

I be more impressed if that worked without taking off the lower cowling (for those of us with quick drains).

[Hank]

Oops, mine are sideways.

Lower cowling is installed, I drain through both cheek panels and remove the upper cowling to put a wrench on the filter and do the safety wire. (We won't discuss my poor safety wire skills . . .)

Edited October 1, 2016 by Hank

[Mooneymite]

On the C, the lower cowling stays in place.  The cowling top and removeable sides give access to everything.  That suction screen is the boetch!

[BDPetersen]

Just, please, don't drain cold oil. Post flight, take it around the patch, whatever it takes. Flush out the bad stuff.

[ArtVandelay]

Just, please, don't drain cold oil. Post flight, take it around the patch, whatever it takes. Flush out the bad stuff.

I never understood this, wouldn't the bad stuff be all drain down to the pan, if the engine is run, a lot of the dirty oil will remain clinging to various engine parts, and the bad stuff will remain.

[TheTurtle]

2 hours ago, Mooneymite said:

The "drip less oil filter change".

thats awesome but I have a mag in the way on both sides.  Have to come up with something like that because I just spent 2 hours cleaning up all the spilled oil from my front tire and up...  groan.

[TheTurtle]

1 hour ago, Hank said:

That's pretty slick, Gus! Nicer than my rig . . .

ah now this one might work but i still dont thin i have the angle with that mag inthe way.  Do Cs not have mags in that spot?  Ill take another look when i go back up there.

 

[TheTurtle]

59 minutes ago, BDPetersen said:

Just, please, don't drain cold oil. Post flight, take it around the patch, whatever it takes. Flush out the bad stuff.

started draining and my cfi(friend) showed up and asked if I warmed it up....  So stopped draining and ran it up.  Definitely started flowing faster!!

[TheTurtle]

What is this thing?  Its directly under the oil filter and has a hose going into it.  I can move the whole thing around.  Dont seem airplane tight.  Seems to be rubber around the sides.

 

Edited September 30, 2016 by TheTurtle

[Yetti]

usually there is a mechanical fuel pump under the oil filter.

Step by step.

Fly plane

Remove top and right cowl

Bucket under drain.  Hose on drain into bucket

Open quick drain.

Move to other side of plane.

cut safety wire on filter.

Take old rags and put under filter

Put your fancy oil slide under filter

Take 1" Harbor Freight wrench that has been cut off and loosen filter.

Spin off filter

New filter put oil on rubber seal

clean up drips

Put on new filter.  torque to specs or

safety wire.

Some people put 100LL through the oil filler to loosen up some gunk.

drain over night if possible

Close quick drain

Refill with 6 quarts

Check everything you can on then engine with a flashlight, pull things make sure nothing it rubbing

Repeat last step.   Check everything looking for loose bolts or nuts or such.

Check your oil change work

recowl

Start plane then stop plane and check for leaks.

Go fly to 5000 feet AGL above the airport

Come down and land softly

Recheck your work. looking for leaks.

 

[BDPetersen]

Re warm oil change. I believe the concept is to allow the oil to pick up the bad stuff that has come to rest in various nooks and crannies in the engine so that it will be ushered out into the bucket.

Back in the days of Compuserve and the Avsig forum we had the expertise of an aircraft oil guru who would be the expert I would cite if I could recall his name. ( I don't think it was Howard Fenton.)

[gsxrpilot]

One solution for the mess is to put a gallon size ziplock bag over the filter before it's removed. Spin the filter off and let it and any loose oil to fall into the bag.

[RLCarter]

Running the engine before draining does 2 things, suspends any particles in the oil and the they get carried out, the other is the oil flows out better when hot. The engine, oil and exhaust is going to be hot after running up or flying so don't burn the crap out of yourself, also while the filter is off start the safety wire in the web, it's a whole lot easier with the filter out of the way. If you can find someone on the field to watch over or guide you through the process.

[carusoam]

Draining the oil is a multi step strategy...

1) warm oil flows better.

2) running the engine puts a quart back up out of the way in places like the oil cooler and every other surface.

3) allowing it to drain overnight seems to cover both bases.

4) sludge requires being confident, knowing you are not leaving any solvents in the engine. You wouldn't want to forget a quart of solvent in the oil pan.

When you check your oil level, does it change in 24 hours after you ran it last?  My IO550 hides a quart pretty easily.  Probably in the oil cooler...

Best regards,

-a-

[Hank]

3 hours ago, TheTurtle said:

ah now this one might work but i still dont thin i have the angle with that mag inthe way.  Do Cs not have mags in that spot?  Ill take another look when i go back up there.

 

Yep, there's a mag on both sides, about the same level as the filter. The little piece of scrap aluminum (or Gus's modified PVC pipe) goes well under them. My trough slants further down as it leaves the engine compartment. The aluminum is straight itself, but I slide it in and up significantly (maybe 6" higher on the inside).

[Guest]

11 hours ago, TheTurtle said:

What is this thing?  Its directly under the oil filter and has a hose going into it.  I can move the whole thing around.  Dont seem airplane tight.  Seems to be rubber around the sides.

 

The gold coloured part is the cooling should for the engine driven fuel pump, they do tend to flop around a bit.

Clarence

[Browncbr1]

I plug in my tanis heater for a few hours or overnight before changing oil.  Makes oil flow much quicker.   

[Hank]

Changing the oil is a good excuse for two flights--a short one to warm up the oil, and another one afterwards to check for leaks.  

[Mooneymite]

With respect to getting the sludge out when changing the oil, I found this thread interesting:

 

[stevesm20b]

I just remove the oil in the filter before taking it off. Makes changing the oil a lot easier. I have posted how I do this a number of times.