DonMuncy Posted August 1, 2016 Report Posted August 1, 2016 I'm just reading the latest issue of Aviation Consumer, and they have an article on corrosion prevention. I would have no problem in fogging my plane if I had sufficient information about exactly where the CorrosionX should be sprayed. Ie. which inspection panels to be pulled, whether/how to do the cabin interior, tail cone, and how and where to access the wing spars. It would really be helpful if someone with experience/knowledge could create a step by step process, with the list of necessary equipment. I don't know how it could work, but I suspect a bunch of us would pay a few bucks to get good information on how to do it. Quote
Andy95W Posted August 1, 2016 Report Posted August 1, 2016 I'm not trying to be flippant in my response, but it is pretty straightforward: 1. Remove all inspection panels. To be most thorough, remove the interior and carpeting as well. 2. Put together the sprayer, hose, and the standard wand, connect it to your compressor. 3. Put on old clothes and a mask. 4. Spray inside each inspection hole for about 2-4 seconds each to get a nice fog to develop. For potential problem areas, or areas of concern, spray directly on the area. For areas like the vertical stabilizer, feed the wand and hose as far up lightening holes as you can and pull the trigger. 5. Install all inspection panels and interior. The cans of CorrosionX you get from Aircraft Spruce are good for spot treating, but to fog the airplane you really need the actual equipment. The best thing to do is have your shop at your next annual treat the airplane when they already have it opened up. Quote
DonMuncy Posted August 1, 2016 Author Report Posted August 1, 2016 So if you do inside the wings, up into the belly panel cavities, the tail cone and the cabin, you got it all? Quote
DonMuncy Posted August 1, 2016 Author Report Posted August 1, 2016 Thanks guys. Good to get info from people who know. Quote
Aerodon Posted August 1, 2016 Report Posted August 1, 2016 And don't do it if you ever have any intention of painting the plane in th next 5 years. It gets into every seam, and starts to bleed out. I live with the grime that accumulates, because it is far better than water seeping into the seems. Don 3 Quote
jetdriven Posted August 1, 2016 Report Posted August 1, 2016 (edited) In starting to think there's better options, such as Dinitrol AV8 and boeshield t9 Edited August 1, 2016 by jetdriven Quote
M20F Posted August 1, 2016 Report Posted August 1, 2016 Drilling holes in the inspection panels makes things easier and makes it fog better. I had Maxwell do mine on my pre-buy and it was $200. I fog it every year with the little corrosion x bottle they sell. If it doesn't seep all over the place for a couple months after fogging you didn't give it enough. It does make a mess. Quote
Guest Posted August 1, 2016 Report Posted August 1, 2016 I bought a 1 quart sprayer with an adjustable nozzle, at 100 psi it will make a very fine mist. When the plane is opened up for annual (meaning all covers opened) it's a quick and easy process to spray the plane, however it is best done outside. Clarence Quote
RLCarter Posted August 1, 2016 Report Posted August 1, 2016 2 hours ago, M20Doc said: I bought a 1 quart sprayer with an adjustable nozzle, at 100 psi it will make a very fine mist. When the plane is opened up for annual (meaning all covers opened) it's a quick and easy process to spray the plane, however it is best done outside. Clarence Hey Clarence what type of sprayer do you use? I was thinking of using a cheap paint gun next time it needs done Quote
markejackson02 Posted August 1, 2016 Report Posted August 1, 2016 2 hours ago, RLCarter said: Hey Clarence what type of sprayer do you use? I was thinking of using a cheap paint gun next time it needs done You will need to pop about $100 for a sprayer. There is a specialty sprayer that produces the fog. Paint guns or other non-specific sprayers don't produce the needed mist. The equipment from the manufacturers is stupid expensive and really only for professional shops doing many jobs a year. I will look up the url of the wand I had to buy. Quote
RLCarter Posted August 1, 2016 Report Posted August 1, 2016 1 hour ago, Skmoore63 said: still getting a little dark residue from rivets anytime after flying in clouds or rain. It's easy to clean up with a waterless wash Residue around the rivets (smoking rivets) are rivets that are loose, along the skin seams is normal 1 Quote
kris_adams Posted August 1, 2016 Report Posted August 1, 2016 12 hours ago, Aerodon said: And don't do it if you ever have any intention of painting the plane in th next 5 years. It gets into every seam, and starts to bleed out. I live with the grime that accumulates, because it is far better than water seeping into the seems. Don I had it done many years ago and I had the same experience. Weeping out of seems for years. Hoping to paint this fall so I should be clear now. Quote
carusoam Posted August 1, 2016 Report Posted August 1, 2016 My 65 C would seep through rivets at the top of the wing as well... Looks a lot like smoking rivets... Nice to see how well the stuff moves through tight spots... Best regards, -a- Quote
ArtVandelay Posted August 1, 2016 Report Posted August 1, 2016 I had it done many years ago and I had the same experience. Weeping out of seems for years. Hoping to paint this fall so I should be clear now. I found when the plane sits out in the sun it weeps. I assume whatever process they use to remove the old paint will remove the corrosion protection as well and certainly is a topic I would bring up. Quote
Seth Posted August 1, 2016 Report Posted August 1, 2016 14 hours ago, Aerodon said: And don't do it if you ever have any intention of painting the plane in th next 5 years. It gets into every seam, and starts to bleed out. I live with the grime that accumulates, because it is far better than water seeping into the seems. Don Me too. It's stopped "bleeding" after a few years, thus it's time to do it again. -Seth Quote
Aerodon Posted August 2, 2016 Report Posted August 2, 2016 19 hours ago, jetdriven said: In starting to think there's better options, such as Dinitrol AV8 and boeshield t9 I've like dinitrol for exterior parts like my floatplane rudders, fittings, hinges etc. It provides a 'dryish' layer onto all the alodined parts and bolts for a little more protection. I would not use it inside the fuselage or wings, because all you are doing is sealing moisture into seams, pits, hard to get places. ACF50 gets in everywhere and displaces water, just what you need it to do. If it bleeds out, or shows loose rivets, I can live with that. Don Quote
markejackson02 Posted August 2, 2016 Report Posted August 2, 2016 Ouch, it was $200 for the sprayer. Funny how you forget what you spent on things..... http://www.triconsprayers.com/product/tri-con-atomized-sprayer-o-1800-1/ Quote
bradp Posted August 3, 2016 Report Posted August 3, 2016 11 hours ago, markejackson02 said: Ouch, it was $200 for the sprayer. Funny how you forget what you spent on things..... http://www.triconsprayers.com/product/tri-con-atomized-sprayer-o-1800-1/ That's the sprayer I have. It was a little less when I bought it. Works well. Considering an application adds $ to an annual, and I do my annuals owner assist, it makes sense to have the equipment to do the job. I tried to do the bug sprayer, but it plopped and didn't fog. Quote
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