Sun Visors

[carusoam]

You may want to check if the long body has a different diameter center post as well as clearance issues.

Best regards,

-a-

[DonMuncy]

10 hours ago, carusoam said:

You may want to check if the long body has a different diameter center post as well as clearance issues.

Best regards,

-a-

Good to know. My side mount ones are not a problem, but for the earlier ones (center mount), I wanted to know whether I had a clearance problem. Mine (K model) are 3/4 inch. Are all the earlier ones that size also?

[DrBill]

My 65E center post is 3/4 in too.   I just got a pair of Rosens given to me and Im going to make the attached aluminum block to mount them.

basically a 1 in sq al block split to clamp on the post with tapped holes for the rosen mount.

They are from a piper cherokee 140. owner wanted to go back stock so I made him a pair of stock ones.

Bill

 

moonwymount.xps

[DonMuncy]

Just now, DrBill said:

My 65E center post is 3/4 in too.   I just got a pair of Rosens given to me and Im going to make the attached aluminum block to mount them.

basically a 1 in sq al block split to clamp on the post with tapped holes for the rosen mount.

They are from a piper cherokee 140. owner wanted to go back stock so I made him a pair of stock ones.

Bill

 

moonwymount.xps

Bill,

What kind of equipment do you have to make the block.

[Yetti]

The F is 3/4" center post. I used 2" alum stock, it could be smaller and be more refined.  I hate to post this because if you hurt yourself don't blame me.   Cheap wally world Black and decker circ saw blade on the table saw to cut the alum bar stock.   I drilled the holes to clamp and all the threaded holes to hold things, sun visors and camera mounts.   Going with 10-32 on all threads.  Drill the 3/4 inch hole through the center.  Then go back to the table saw and cut the block in half using the fence for a guide and using push and feather blocks to hold things.   There is a lot that can go wrong with doing this on the table saw, but I have been doing stupid table saw tricks for years.  Go back and drill out one half of your clamping screw holes.   Don't stand in the line of the saw blade. Kick backs happen.

for visors I am going to thread some of the stainless rod that I bought.  Still need to work on them so they don't stick straight out when up.

[flyer7324]

Does anyone have an .xls file for the C model. Love to purchase decal for my Lasar visor.

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[DonMuncy]

4 hours ago, Yetti said:

The F is 3/4" center post. I used 2" alum stock, it could be smaller and be more refined.  I hate to post this because if you hurt yourself don't blame me.   Cheap wally world Black and decker circ saw blade on the table saw to cut the alum bar stock.   I drilled the holes to clamp and all the threaded holes to hold things, sun visors and camera mounts.   Going with 10-32 on all threads.  Drill the 3/4 inch hole through the center.  Then go back to the table saw and cut the block in half using the fence for a guide and using push and feather blocks to hold things.   There is a lot that can go wrong with doing this on the table saw, but I have been doing stupid table saw tricks for years.  Go back and drill out one half of your clamping screw holes.   Don't stand in the line of the saw blade. Kick backs happen.

for visors I am going to thread some of the stainless rod that I bought.  Still need to work on them so they don't stick straight out when up.

I feel the same way. I would not recommend anyone do some of the things I have done with tools. Life would be much nicer if I had some better stuff. At the hangar I have a cheapo Harbor Freight drill press and sometimes it is a challenge to get a hole within 1/16th inch of where I want it. 

[DrBill]

6 hours ago, DonMuncy said:

Bill,

What kind of equipment do you have to make the block.

Since I retired from UNC Charlotte engineering dept, I have access to their nice Mechanical Engineering machine shop.  4 JET Lathes and 8 JET full size milling machines.  My dad was a tool maker and taught me how to use them and I still have all his tools and Gerstner box.

Bill

I made these baggage door latches from the same 1 in stock.

[Yetti]

For the drill press I have an old Delta with a #1 taper and the larger bits use the taper.  The capacitor is gone on the motor so you turn it on and give the mandrel a spin with your hand to get it going.  Pretty sure it is older than I am, but it drills a straight hole.   The more proper way would be to cut the bar stock with a band saw.  Then use a round nose mill to put the 3/4 inch hole in on the split pieces.  But that would take time and measuring and stuff.  Or you could use the table saw to put the 3/4 hole in with multiple passes and vary the height.  I cheated and used the mill to put tapped holes in to be a little less random on the placement.

[DonMuncy]

9 minutes ago, DrBill said:

Since I retired from UNC Charlotte engineering dept, I have access to their nice Mechanical Engineering machine shop.  4 JET Lathes and 8 JET full size milling machines.  My dad was a tool maker and taught me how to use them and I still have all his tools and Gerstner box.

Bill

I made these baggage door latches from the same 1 in stock.

Lucky guy re the machines and tools. Good job on the knowledge. My equipment is poor and my self taught knowledge probably no better.

[DrBill]

At home I have and old Chinese drill press and a 1/2 in cap jewelers lathe my dad made.  Works good for small parts +- .005.

With the shop, I have to go when there are no classes and it's 30 min drive each way and no working alone.(a rule I made when I was shop mgr !!)

Bill

[Yetti]

Generally pleased with the concept Camera Mount.   Need to refine it and make it small.

 

[DrBill]

did you drill the 3/4 hole then split the block or split the block, clamp and drill ?

Bill

 

[Yetti]

drill the hole then split the block

[DonMuncy]

I have just about finished my first iteration of a design for "center mount" visors. (I still don't know when in the Mooney model line, they switched to side mounts. I know the Js are side mount, but I don't know about the ones prior to that. Some of the E, F and G guys might chime in.)

My newest version uses a split collar to attach to the center post and an extendable arm toward the outside, with the shade sticking back toward the center. By extending the arm, it can be positioned for the side window. Naturally, in the final version, the collar will have posts out each side for the right and left visors.

I have designed a "pinch" screw to tighten the extension arm so it doesn't vibrate in or out, but the fit of the extension arm is very close and I am not sure the pinch is necessary. As the photos show, the pinch screw is not yet installed, but in one of the pics, it is in approximately its planned location (small black knob).

The shade itself on this version is about 5 x 12 1/2 inches. I don't have an early model to test it on, so I can't be certain if the dimensions of the shade is too long/short/wide/narrow. It seems likely that I might need to clip a corner to clear the compass. The distance from the center of the center post to the outside end of the shade is 14 1/4 inches, with the arm in the non-extended position, if anyone wants to cut a piece of cardboard and play with sizes. Or if you are close to Dallas, we can fit it on your plane and do some tweaking. As before, I am soliciting input as to sizes and anything else about the design.

Look at the photos for the difference between the extended and non-extended positions.

[TWinter]

Mine is a 73 E and I have the side mount.

[DonMuncy]

2 hours ago, TWinter said:

Mine is a 73 E and I have the side mount.

Thanks. Looks like the Cs are the only center mount; unless they mixed it up in some models.

[Marauder]

2 hours ago, TWinter said: Mine is a 73 E and I have the side mount.

Thanks. Looks like the Cs are the only center mount; unless they mixed it up in some models.

Don -- like Tom's mine are side mounted on my 75F. Be curious how hard it would be to cut my own. I think you mentioned that the material can be purchased at a Home Depot. What is it again? Lexan?

[DonMuncy]

Just now, Marauder said:

Don -- like Tom's mine are side mounted on my 75F. Be curious how hard it would be to cut my own. I think you mentioned that the material can be purchased at a Home Depot. What is it again? Lexan?

As far as I know, all of Home Depot's plexiglass  and Lexan are clear. I got mine at a local plastics store. If you can't find any locally, depending on the shape you want, etc. I can likely make you what you need for very near the price of the material and shipping..

Incidentally, I have found plexiglass to be a little easier to work with, but Lexan is a little stouter and perhaps less subject to scratches. I think someone posted that Lexan yellows more than Plexiglass, but I have not seen it. (Limited experience).

[Marauder]

Just now, Marauder said: Don -- like Tom's mine are side mounted on my 75F. Be curious how hard it would be to cut my own. I think you mentioned that the material can be purchased at a Home Depot. What is it again? Lexan?

As far as I know, all of Home Depot's plexiglass  and Lexan are clear. I got mine at a local plastics store. If you can't find any locally, depending on the shape you want, etc. I can likely make you what you need for very near the price of the material and shipping..

Incidentally, I have found plexiglass to be a little easier to work with, but Lexan is a little stouter and perhaps less subject to scratches. I think someone posted that Lexan yellows more than Plexiglass, but I have not seen it. (Limited experience).

That sounds great Don! I don't know of any local plastics companies but if I did, not sure if I know how to cut it. If you were to make me a pair, what do you need me to do? Take the existing ones off an send them to you?

[Marauder]

And oh, BTW -- I stopped at Rosen's at Sun N Fun. $470 for a pair of sun visors is a ridiculous amount of money!

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[DonMuncy]

2 hours ago, Marauder said:

That sounds great Don! I don't know of any local plastics companies but if I did, not sure if I know how to cut it. If you were to make me a pair, what do you need me to do? Take the existing ones off an send them to you?

I sent you a PM.

[Marauder]

I just saw your dimensions. I think the width is probably fine, but the length seems long. I will take measurements and pictures tomorrow. The shape is more rounded I believe as well.

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[Hank]

6 hours ago, DonMuncy said:

Thanks. Looks like the Cs are the only center mount; unless they mixed it up in some models.

My 1970 C also has the factory corner mount. But this center mount has an easy, elegant way to flip out to the side window. Just wish mine were either longer or movable to cover further back the side window where the sun often shines in unimpeded.

[DonMuncy]

1 hour ago, Hank said:

My 1970 C also has the factory corner mount. But this center mount has an easy, elegant way to flip out to the side window. Just wish mine were either longer or movable to cover further back the side window where the sun often shines in unimpeded.

Hank,

Feel free to utilize any part of my design if it will help you. I'll be glad to furnish any details and/or material sources.