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Posted

Looked in search for a thread focusing on the pre-load inspection at annual.  Do's/don'ts.  Could not find any information to include How To's, tool's required.  Video of completion.  Pre-load readings?  I believe they changed with a Mooney circular from original settings/range.  Yes/No?

Nobody doesn't know.  Nobody wants to know.

Nobody knows?

Alrighty then.

Posted

Cut a strip of paper that will slip into the over center link. Pull the torque wrench till the link breaks and slide the paper in. Take the pressure off the torque wrench. watch the dial on the torque wrench while slowly increasing torque. pull on the strip of paper, when it slips out, note the torque reading.

If you are using a "click" torque wrench, you will need to do this many times adjusting the torque setting on the wrench until it clicks just as the paper comes loose.

  • Like 2
Posted

Sometimes it takes a while to find the information, Scott, and to see if anyone else can dig it up faster.

For acceptable values for rigging, SB M20-155:

http://www.mooney.com/en/sb/M20-155.pdf

I don't know of any how to videos, but the Service Manual is pretty good:

image.thumb.png.79821a9251215f97f0f5b989

If you have electric gear you have to measure the nose gear bungee springs (IIRC you have an M20F?):

 

image.png

  • Like 1
Posted

N201MKTURBO  - idea to use a piece of paper as a slip gauge to determine when the "gear link first begins to move" will help to prevent over loading the system, which is more of a problem than not.  Also, when you adjust one ball rod end..it changes the torque setting all around.  It's a bit like tuning spokes in a bicycle wheel. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Actually, the Service Manual specifies a movement of .005-.010 inches.  

If you don't want to sacrifice a feeler gauge each annual, cut apart a beer can and you can make about 15 years' worth right at .006 inches.

Or drink a fresh beer each annual.

Posted

If they are out of spec, remove the rods to the two main gear, then adjust the rods to the nose gear so they are equal and correct. Then do the mains one at a time. My experience is that if you adjust it so all the springs are half compressed, the preloads will be within spec.

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