larryb

Earlier this year I had an issue with the Gear Relay (not Actuator) circuit breaker blowing. The symptom was the Gear Relay CB would pop when the gear reached the full UP position. If I re-set the breaker it would just pop again. But if I put the landing gear switch in the Down position and then reset the CB the gear would go down without issue. There was a case where one of the screw terminals on the back of the UP limit switch contacted a piece of the landing gear mechanism when the gear was up. So the fix was pretty simple, they just removed the screw, which was unused, from the switch, eliminating the interference. There is very little clearance here. The problem could not be seen with the gear down. The plane needed to be on jacks with the gear retracted to find the problem.

Which breaker? Gear actuator or Gear relay?

It is not just planes without engine monitors. Most of the Acclaim listings show cylinder replacement on young engines.

I agree on the back seat. Here is mine. It comes out easily and I had a custom carpet piece made for the space. I never use the back seat. Just the wife and I 99% of the time. It would be nice to have a removable fuel bladder there for certain trips.

I was having oil drip out of the exhaust in the hours after shutdown. My shop did the test, I did not. As he described it they disconnect the two oil hoses from the turbo and put them in a can. Then they run the engine at a certain rpm and make sure the pump can empty the can faster than the supply hose fills it. My engine failed the test and I wound up buying two new scavenger pump gears. There is also a proper turbo shutdown procedure. As described by my shop you should run the engine at 1300 rpm for 30 seconds then pull the mixture and shut down. This allows the scavenger pump to get the oil out of the turbo.

Could be that the scavenger pump is not scavenging enough. I had this with my K. There is a test for that which can be done. As I understand it turbo oil leakage is not really a seal issue but instead a scavenger pump or check valve issue.

I will say that when I got my IR I was very happy to be flying a J and not a bravo. The fuel burn on all those missed approaches would have been something to see! But now that I have it the encore is a much better fit.

I suggest the OP put it on eBay. A much wider audience.

The thing about airplane costs, many of them are identical between a C model and a K model. Hanger, subscriptions, airframe maintenance, etc. All no difference. It costs just as much to put a new GTN 750 in a C model as a K model. Over just a few years, the purchase price of the aircraft is just a small portion of the total ownership cost. If your ultimate goal is to own a K model you will save money in the long run if you just by it now.

Well I have both the miniflow and transducer removed for upgrade. Let me know if you need one or the other.

Mine is clockwise for the off to on transition. Your knob behavior is similar to mine when the inner cable broke at the knob. You will know when you check the valve in the tail and see if it moves or not when turning the knob.

The wires generally have the circuit number printed on them. From what I can see in the pic these wires are labeled. So it should be possible to re-pin the connector. But what a pain....

Well, you cannot install a G5 in a FIKI plane today. Garmin hopes to remove that limitation in the future. There is a thread on beechtalk about it. Doesn’t make any sense. But it is true.

I had a similar problem this year. Except for me the breaker tripped on the gear up transition. The screw terminals on the limit switch have almost no clearance to one of the gear rods when the gear is up. There was some linkage that touched a terminal and shorted it out tripping the breaker. The plane needs to be on jacks and the gear retracted to see this. This could be your problem.

That Straubing unit is very basic. Reading the datasheet, all it does is press the altitude hold button when the Aspen beeps it's sonalert as you arrive at altitude. https://www.avionik.de/fileadmin/01_avionik/Resources/Public/Images/Produkte/Eigene_Produkte/ASR_1005_APS4A_903_TDS_10.pdf Larry

In my J I had a single PFD. In my Encore I have a 3-display Aspen install. I only wanted 2 displays, but Aspen had a screaming deal about 18 months ago that I could not pass up. Basically it was 3 displays, all unlocks, at about half price. What I really like about the Aspen architecture is that you have full redundancy (except the pitot tube.) If something fails at a bad time you are not flying on backup instrumentation, you are flying the same thing you always fly. I think this is the big benefit. If I had a 2 display system it would certainly be the MFD1000 and not the MFD500. Now that I have the 3 displays, I do like having them. On an approach I typically have the approach chart on 1 MFD and the map on the other. The PFD has SV turned on. So I don't really need the ipad anymore, but I still use it.

What is the deal with the tags? I always thought I had 30 days to get the registration done after purchase.

Are you managing the plane to minimize lifetime cost or cost today? If you put in old gear today then that investment is 100% wasted when you upgrade to the 650 later. So if it was me I would economize somewhere else in my life and put in the 650 now. Since you have a partner the cost to you is half.

Just use aviation grade wire and hardware. Tefzel wire, nylon spiral wrap to protect it, and an in-line fuse holder like what is already around the battery. Follow standard aviation practices so it looks like it belongs.

Molex connector wired directly to battery with inline fuse

In my J I had the same problem. In my case the master switch needed replacement. The specific problem was the spade lugs which are riveted to the switch were loose in the rivets.

For my encore there is no limit on speed brake usage. Any airspeed is fine.

This is all I have at the moment. What is not shown is where the casing is clamped to the bracket. But it does show how the inner wire is connected.

In this application, the heat shield spans a slip joint. Therefore one must tighten one clamp securely and leave the other clamp slightly loose. I have already added the adhesive backed Thermo-Tek barrier to my cowl in front of the exhaust because I was not confident in the Mooney heat shield. I am not sure if this is sufficient if there were no Mooney heat shield though. I am also curious if other K models don't even have a heat shield. It looks like the shield was added via SB in 1987. Larry

Aside from the legality of it all, anybody see an issue with using something like this instead of the expensive and crack-prone metal heat shield? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BAOW4KI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1