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About FlyBoyM20J

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    1982 M20J

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  1. Yep, here's the sticker on the bottom of the dimmer unit in my 82 J. But the PNP transistors are drawn incorrectly. They have collector and emitter reversed, so the load is connected between collector and ground. Cliff
  2. I have a tried-and-true way of ensuring a new drill bit is dull. Just grab one that was specified for wood/plastic and try drilling some steel for a few seconds. I have a few of those in my drill case for purposes such as this...I promise I made them dull on purpose. But I also read all the advice about using a step drill for this, so right now, my plan is to use a very small dulled bit for a pilot hole and a step drill for expanding and counter-sink...with a block of wood below. Now...if USPS would only deliver the lens...
  3. Yep...I ordered one on Monday. Priority Mail should have delivered it to my office luck. Hoping for tomorrow. Any suggestions on how to get the plane in the air safely without this exact part in case it doesn't arrive? I'd like to be able to fly home or to a shop as a fallback to waiting for parts to show up. Cliff
  4. The PN is 210385-002. I found a MS thread on this when I Googled that part number. If anyone has one and wants to sell, I'd appreciate it. Otherwise, I guess now that Mooney is back at their phones, I'd better give them a call. Cliff
  5. I'm now looking for one of these...mine was deformed from heat and worn out before it fractured so it's not really worth fixing and re-installing long-term. I have enough of the missing pieces to make it structurally sound so it might go back in for the winter. But it needs to be replaced.
  6. I'd like the option, yes, thanks. Cliff
  7. Not sure what you mean, but I see on my CC record for this that it's $163 including shipping. I can imagine the black thermoformed piece is one-of-a-kind much like the fiberglass fairing itself. In my case, it looks like the broken parts were pushed inside the piece, so I think that repair is feasible.
  8. Update: I just got off the phone with LASAR and their cost for a single lens is $148. They're shipping one to me right now...should have it before the end of the week. Cliff
  9. I'm not sure I want to make an insurance call on something 1 AMU-ish like this. The strobe was fine and still mounted to the black thermoformed part after the initial impact...until I tried to unstick the plane myself with the tow bar (and crampons for traction). The poor plane slid back against the hangar door over the ice and gently snapped the strobe off at the mounting points. I think it can be remounted without issue. Yes, some of the fiberglass looks chafed. I want it to be 100% solid and operational...and after good as the rest of the paint job which is asking for attention. If I could get it safely to a shop that would do the whole thing nicely, I'd go for that but I believe I'll need to get it operational and a lens in place just to fly anywhere. Cliff
  10. I also found this...says "little to no trimming" but it appears that it requires drilling (makes sense). Anyone ever try these? EDIT: looking at the price and part number, this would appear to be a Great Lakes Aero part.
  11. Thanks...and yeah, this was my normal commute flight and I had just done a sweet touchdown in some challenging winds. I was thinking how nice it was that I could let the prop pull me over the snow and ice. Didn't think what might happen if some of that wind caught me between the rows of hangars. Now I need to figure out how to handle this if it happens again sometime. Cliff
  12. Is this the same PN as the stock lens prior to the STC'd fairing install? Thanks again, Skip! Cliff BTW, I found the other thread here...
  13. Windy day in the NE and ice on the ramp. A gust of wind shifted my J sideways over the ice and the starboard wing fairing hit a closed hangar door. Any suggestions on who I should contact to get another lens?
  14. Good to know...I'm sure that will be helpful at assembly time. Thanks again!
  15. Perfect, thanks! I'm going to get the new hoses and FF transducer, fittings, firesleeve, etc. first so that I can get the transducer secured near the sump and as far from the C4 riser as possible. Then I should have the clearance to add this heat shield. Cliff