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FlyBoyM20J

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About FlyBoyM20J

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  • Location
    PA/NY
  • Model
    1982 M20J

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  1. Just saw this...I don't have any fluctuations as long as I've manipulated the spade connectors on the back of the master switch recently. Meaning, every 6 months or so, I start to see the ammeter needle move slightly and so I generally take the spade connectors off the back of the 4 spade lugs, inspect, and put back on...and problem solved until a few months later. I can only assume some oxide is building up but I can never see anything. Most recently, I didn't even remove the connectors. I simply touched them and the needle stopped moving. That was a couple of months ago, so I ex
  2. This sounds perfect...is the STC included? Cliff
  3. Thank you! I am away from my plane for a few days...back at it next week, and if I decide to stay with Xenon tubes and Hoskins, I'd be grateful for a working Hoskins unit. I'll dm you my phone number at that point...don't want to make you dig through your parts unless I'm going that route. Cliff
  4. This looks perfect! I have the same wing tip extensions/fairings...Will check website, but I'm assuming that the way to wire these LEDs would be to bypass the Hoskins units in the wings...would be nice to remove them but they don't seem to cause much of a problem. Cliff
  5. I found this, so I guess I can fix the broken PS (thanks NicoN!), but I'm leaning toward LEDs at this point... Cliff
  6. Has anybody done this with Lasar wing farings? I have those on this plane....
  7. This is what is in the maintenance manual...so...likely a bad Hoskins PS that can be isolated by disconnecting SYNC as N201MKTurbo suggests?
  8. I always check the lights during preflight and one day last week, no strobes. The day before, they were fine. I got a chance to look at this today and the voltage coming out of the Klixon breaker is > 12V, and the power reaching each of the Hoskins strobe PSs in the wings is > 12V. The B+ wire for the right-hand strobe measures around +500V DC and the B+ wire for the left-hand strobe is about +470V DC. Nothing on the Trig lines going to either strobe tube, and nothing on the SYNC line coming into either PS. GND is good at PS inputs and at strobe molexes. No tail strobe lig
  9. An update for anyone who was wondering: it was indeed the CT clamp on the 1.5" interconnect between B and A cells in the picture above. Before I corrected this, I talked with Nate at Griggs and he said that clamps on this interconnect in particular are known to come loose over time and that 90% of the time, the only thing they do when faced with a leak in their shop is open up the cells and tighten all the clamps. They do not try to locate the source of the leak most of the time, as that is not easy and can take a lot of time. It now looks like this:
  10. And...the bladder access panels are open! The Permatex was not as pervasive as I feared and it was possible to use a plastic putty knife between the gasket and the fuel bladder...no real pressure required and slowly things came apart. Inner cell: Middle cell: Most of the clamps appeared correctly installed except for this one which is on the 1" mid-height pipe between the middle and inner bladders, as seen from inside the middle bladder looking toward the inner (cabin side). My mechanic will inspect before I move forward. Cliff
  11. There's a bag on eBay right now that was refurbished by O&N, and the pictured receipt shows about 40% of an AMU. From perhaps 5 years ago. I'll get mine repaired if necessary but at the moment, I am willing to believe that a single interconnect clamp requires torqueing. The trick is to access the clamp without damaging the bladder. I believe I can remove the Permatex-infused cork and with some very careful clean-up, keep things in good shape. I just talked to Griggs to order some more gaskets at $20 each. Arriving in a day or 2.
  12. Thanks! I've been to Griggs a couple of times. Those are some great and talented people. I'm pretty sure I'm looking at a good quantity of Permatex No. 3 here. These bladders were installed by the mechanic used most often by the previous owner...and that mechanic is fond of Permatex No. 3. You can see the stuff ran down the inside of the fuel sender in the borescope picture, as well. I would bet that if that particular mechanic installed anything that had a cork gasket, he'd Permatex it up for good measure. Wonderful guy, though. The next step is to open the access panels
  13. Panels opened today. Borsecoped outermost cell via fuel filler opening. Looks good so far but there's no indication that the problem is with the outer cell. Fuel smell inside innermost cabin-side cell chamber, which makes sense given the locations of the leaks on the bottom of the wing. No fuel cell access panels show signs of weeping, likely because the installer used Permatex on the cork gaskets. Suspect an interconnect clamp on upper or mid pipe between inner (cabin-side) and middle cells. But...so much Permatex on the cork. Did not attempt to defeat yet and it's clear
  14. Yes, it does leak out at the sump drain but doesn't seem to be originating from there. The browner stain farther outboard is the first indication of fuel leaking along the wing - the lighting isn't good in this photo, but that is basically goo that flowed with leaking fuel. It seems to flow downhill from there inside the wing and drip out at the opening around the sump drain...and past that down to seams in belly panels. As it happens, the cover plate at the sump drain has a cutout that allows one to see the nipple and the hose clamp...and would allow any leaks to drip out immediate at
  15. I had a look at this today but needed to get the fuel out of the bladders, so didn't get the access panels open (other than the outermost one next to filler cap). There was no evidence of seeping at that access port. Also, after sitting for almost 2 weeks in the hangar after being filled to the top, this wing ended up still having approx. 23 gallons. It would seem the leak is near the top of a cell, since the apparent low level is reached soon after filling and the leak seems to stop or slow after that. I have some exterior photos below. I'll get borescope pics and open access pa
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