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About FlyBoyM20J

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    1982 M20J

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  1. Good to know...I'm sure that will be helpful at assembly time. Thanks again!
  2. Perfect, thanks! I'm going to get the new hoses and FF transducer, fittings, firesleeve, etc. first so that I can get the transducer secured near the sump and as far from the C4 riser as possible. Then I should have the clearance to add this heat shield. Cliff
  3. I see...well, I ordered the clamp-on kind just b/c it looked easy to install but I'll see if I can cancel it now. This kind looks like it needs to be spot-welded on...or do you clamp it through those loops?
  4. I went through all the paperwork that I received from the previous owner and I found the Shadin STCs, install instructions, and drawings. Here are the relevant diagram and instructions. It looks like Jetdriven's install is 100% per the manual. I suspect that mine was done right originally but when the engine was replaced, someone just did what appeared to make sense when putting it all back together. I wish I could be certain that the hose length between the FF transducer and the servo is 17". I'd just have Spruce fabricate a new set, get some new AN816-6 fittings to eliminate the 45-degree on the inlet, and get this looking nice. I suppose if I'm going to that kind of trouble, I'd replace the transducer, too. This one has been cooked long enough. Can anyone confirm these dimensions on an A3B6D? Cliff
  5. OR75 is correct - I looked at what it would take to move the FF transducer closer to the sump and lower down on the intake tubes. It seems that the fuel hose connecting the output of the FF transducer to the servo is simply too long. I was able to add some Adel clamps and get about 3/4" of clearance from the C4 riser but I would like to get this done properly. These are all nice, certified fire hoses but I think I'd be more comfortable replacing them. If I can make out the "Cure Date" on the metal band on the hose that that is so long it's forcing the FF transducer towards the exhaust, I believe it is 2004. The hose on the other side going to the FP transducer has been resting on the C1 intake tube forever and has a dent in the fireproof material at that point. I think something else should be done there, too. Anyone have a picture of how that side of things should be done, too? @jetdriven I see that you have posted about 124J hoses a lot over time and I'll start by researching what you've written already. And when you suggest a heat shield, are you talking about one of these? Thanks, Cliff
  6. I bet...I'm not sure how much freedom I will have to get this thing down low like in @jetdriven 's beautiful install (missing exhaust risers as @carusoam noted, so can't determine clearance easily, though it must be worlds better than mine). But if the hose is so long that the assembly ended up too far out to the side, perhaps I have the latitude to redirect it down and away instead. The longer term plan (read: this summer) is to get FF module added to my EDM-700, and for that, I need a reliable transducer and a good installation. So, this is going to be temporary unless this turns out to be a super-stable sensor once relocated away from the riser and once the K-factor is adjusted in the Shadin computer. If I have to replace the transducer, I will work with my mechanic to re-route the fuel lines to locate the transducer near the firewall like others have done. This will require some new hoses.
  7. If I didn't know that the NPT fittings are anodized blue, I'd be up all night worrying that they had turned the color from all the leaks...but there really also isn't much on the interior of the fire sleeve (thank goodness). I don't have much faith in this particular sensor and I'm not going to change the fittings on it now. I'll secure it well away from the exhaust riser with Adel clamps tomorrow morning and then see how far off the K factor appears to be. When this was operating last year, it read ~1.7x what was actually consumed. That is, per my notes for a 1.2 hour flight with 2 approaches and a hold (much LOP), the Shadin indicated 16.5 gallons consumed but it took only 9.6 to top it back off to where it was before the flight. Not sure how to adjust the K factor to compensate for this but before I get into that, I'll want to see what the new ratio is now that it's cleaned and operating again. Cliff
  8. It may not be clear form the picture of the transducer, but the blue inflow NPT fitting is itself a 45 degree elbow. This installation may have been misguided in more ways than one.
  9. Good point. Well, this thing has been in this configuration, wires bent, inches away from this exhaust riser for at least 20 years and perhaps 1500 hours of this is one more bit of luck.
  10. You have all that correct. This is a nutty bad location for the fuel line to run and probably even worse to have a bunch of fittings and a mechanical sensor. I have no clue what motivated the original installer. (Incidentally, the reason I created this thread was because I couldn't find the FF transducer...and I was not looking for such a device right next to an exhaust riser.) I noticed that there was just a tiny bit of blue dye on the inner fire sleeve material when I took it off but nothing to indicate a real leak. More like stuff from installation time. That said, the fitting on the outflow was barely finger tight. Yes, I could have loosened it by hand. So the lack of a leak was just good timing in a game of Russian Roulette. I will see about getting my A&P to relocate this thing entirely but in the mean time, I will clean all this up and use Adel clamps to get it down and away from the exhaust riser. There's a good chance that this sensor has been abused beyond salvage...I'll find that out once I fly a bit. All I know at this point is that the setup doesn't leak and that the Shadin computer now reads fuel flow. Cliff
  11. Mine is horizontal...per the spec sheet, the wires need to come out of the top of it for venting purposes but they don't call for absolute level or anything. I now have a lot of adel clamps so I'll get it away from the riser. It always looked suspicious to me. In the pics from a month ago, you can see that it didn't really have any clearance before I touched it. So many things about this engine setup are sketchy...sigh.
  12. I finally got to take a look at the transducer. It's a Floscan Model 201. It has been sprayed with carb cleaner, soaked in Hoppes #9, and re-installed. It seems to work well now. My only question left is: is it a problem if the fire sleeve bundle actually touches the exhaust riser for C4? It was previously clearing the surface of the riser by perhaps 1 mm (so probably was touching a lot due to vibration) with no damage - just soot. But after re-assembly, it has less clearance and lightly touches the riser. I should mention that there are 2 layers of fire sleeve here, adding at least 1/2" of barrier around the transducer.
  13. I really love the comments. Large and medium Adel clamps and bolts and nuts and everything in the parts catalog to deal with securing SCAT ducts has now been ordered. Also, smaller Adel clamps to get the JPI wires away from the magneto wires. Going to need to do something with the Tanis wires, too. The A&P who installed it didn't follow the manual's instructions about *not* bunching up excess wiring, so I think I'll need to get it trimmed to size and get the crimpers from Tanis and all that.
  14. Thanks, Skip - I've read about soaking in Hoppes in other threads (e.g., "Hoppes comes in a plastic no worries about your plastic impeller"), but I'm not sure which Hoppes product to get at this point. Cliff
  15. Thanks, Andy...I'm only a little self-conscious about the setup under the cowl...I know it needs some attention and I'm more interested in getting advice than I am worried about looking like I don't know what I'm doing (because that part is true). I found the part #'s in the M20J parts catalog just now...looks like a couple of MS21919DG26 and -34. I'll get a few smaller ones for the JPI wires. I'll slowly get this mess sorted out. Cliff