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About moontownMooney

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  1. I'm sorry, I'm not familiar... Is "Phil" with QT or CQ? Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
  2. I'm looking forward to checking out some headsets first hand from the vendors to get more comfortable with the in ear designs. Hoping for some discounts too Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
  3. David, do you know if they (CQHeadsets) will be at OshKosh? Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
  4. I dont think 4nm per 1000ft is enough room. At least not for an efficient cruise descent. We plan 6nm per 1000ft. Also, make sure to trim for the descent. We keep cruise power settings, push over and trim accordingly. At cruise power settings (anything north of 20"), it can take some good forward pressure to establish and maintain a > 500fpm descent so trimming is very important. If we get behind, we can typically pull throttle back directly to 20" from any cruise setting without shock cooling. After a 1 minute pause at 20" you can typically pull back as much as several more inches (down to 15-17") without issue. '68 M20F, no speedbrakes Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
  5. I'm looking for new headsets in the $300-$550 range. Considering Faro Stealth ANRs, and the in-ear options (Faro, Clarity Aloft, QT Halos)... I know there are numerous threads here and elsewhere debating Halos vs Clarity Aloft and I'm not looking to rehash that. However I would love any advice or Pireps on the following: 1) Any issues with the in-ear sets not properly fitting in your ear, fallling out, not blocking sound well, etc? I guess I'm just nervous about going to such a different design approach. 2) How would others compare a mid-level ANR (Faro's) to the in-ear choices? 3) one of the in ear options indicates that it comes with pediatric ear inserts... Anyone have any experience or luck with these for kids and what age? Thanks for any insights in advance! Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
  6. Bevan Rabell does excellent, reasonably priced, component level repair work on older Bendix King equipment. Maybe they are a good fit. Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
  7. I also used Pilot Bank (EAA partner) and have been quite satisfied. Terms were as described in prior post: 15 yr, 20% down on a '68 M20F. Could have made the cash appear to buy outright, but wouldnt have been able to make the wife reappear if I dropped that much cash on my toy. Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
  8. Hoping to repair some hazy side windows with an acrylic polishing/repair system. Does anyone have any experiences with the same using Novus, EZ Clear, Optica 4, or something else? Any recommendations? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  9. From that article, what does "According to the other pilot, Waller's plane had become a collision hazard for several other airplanes. " mean? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  10. Moisture (which can cause corrosion on it's own, or combine with chemicals in the oil soup to form even more corrosive acids) as well as solvents (e.g., unburned fuel vapor, which deplete the protective oil film on the metal parts) are continuously added to the crankcase volume during engine operation via blow by past the piston rings. This added gas must be vented or the crankcase would build unacceptable levels of pressure. In addition, most of these detrimental additions (moisture and solvents) will remain as a gas at engine operating temperatures. So throwing this excess pressure gas overboard is a good way to get rid of the worse portions of the blow-by constituents which are continually added to the crankcase. The oil separator attempts to scavenge some of the oil which would be thrown overboard with this gas for environmental, cleanliness, and oil cost reasons, but because the separator is imperfect, it will inevitably put more of the moisture and solvents back in the crankcase than if you didn't have the separator at all. The relative amount and its significance, I cannot speak to. PP and AE thoughts only, not an A&P or any other relavant letter. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  11. I have an F based at 3M5 which is 2200 ft grass strip, rising terrain and trees off one end, road and power lines off the other. 500ft elevation but summer temps cause density altitudes of up to several thousand feet. It is very doable, but there are additional considerations, as many have mentioned. De-rate your gross weight at least 200 lbs until you get comfy. Some measure of soft field takeoff technique likely needed. Must pull the plane off the runway before it wants to, or you never get to full/normal rotation speed due to rolling resistance. Grass helps slow you on landing once wheels touch, but must be disciplined about coming over the threshold at 80mph or you will float too far. You will have to be comfortable going around, it will happen. For this length on grass, mid-field is a good go/no-go decision point. If the wheels aren't off on take-off or down on landing by mid-field, then abort/go around. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  12. Not sure how close you are looking for, but we did ours at Southwest Texas Aviation and were very pleased. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  13. I wanted to close out this thread. We finally got our cabin heat fixed. We had resigned to waiting for it to be fixed at the annual, and our mechanic said he fixed it and charged us for it, but in reality made it worse. In the end there were two or three problems which were a little more unusual and beyond the standard "missing seal" cause so I thought I'd detail here. At the start we certainly were missing the seal (a replacement had not been adhered properly to the valve plate/flap and blew off, becoming lodged in our vent ducting. At annual, the mechanic did a sound job of reinstalling, adhering the seal to to the valve and trimming precisely. As I mentioned however, the heat was actually worse at this point. Inspection revealed: (1) The bushings on the flap valve axle were badly degraded or missing entirely, allowing substantial slop in the valve (1/8 - 1/4" gap). (2) The actuator cable sleeve had become unanchored from the firewall and/or nearby structure again allowing substantial slop in the valve. (3) This one is a little less firm, but precisely trimming the seal to the valve flap radius and completely adhering the seal to the valve flap prevented the seal from being able to accommodate even the slightest gap or misalignment. As such, the new seal was trimmed to slightly overhang (1/8") the valve flap and it was adhered only on the inner 1/2 to 2/3 of its radius, giving the seal more flexibility to accommodate small gaps or misalignment. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread! My heat works... now on to the air conditioning ! Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  14. Highly recommend you talk to Bevan Rabel regarding repair of your Bendix King radio. They have a guy that specializes in them and they are very good at diagnosing and doing even component (resistor, capacitor, etc.) level repairs and replacements. They were recommended to me for this purpose by two other folks and my experience with them definitely exceeded my expectations. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  15. Okay getting the picture that our compass mount isn't original or proper. Does someone have a pic of this style of compass mount properly done? Was the airpath compass original equipment for the 68 M20F? If so, per Clarence's description, shouldn't there be two front-to-back through holes in the windshield tube/strut to accommodate the mount screws? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk