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M20F-1968

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Everything posted by M20F-1968

  1. How much do you want for the Shadin fluel flow? john.breda@gmail.com cell (617) 877-0025 John Breda
  2. I do not need the floats at this time (but might purchase at the right price). I would like to purchase the two dials with the 0 - 25 marking (I have an F with 32 gallons per side). Please contact me at john.breda@gmail.com or my cell at (617) 877-0025. Thanks, John Breda
  3. I am writing this on the European site given that you have many more mountains in Europe when we do. I have a rebuild (that really means new) Original Style RayJay Turbo Normalizer system for an M20 E or F. It was rebuilt with stainless steel exhaust one gauge heavier than the original with a much beefier wastegate. The wastegate is manual and used as a second exhaust. It is essentially a bolt on system. I have the two STC's, FAA POH letter, install manual, parts manual, and all diagrams referenced by the STC's. This would be a logbook entry in the US with a 337 filed stating work done according to the STC. This would make the E or F a 160 kts airplane at 10,000 ft and a 180 kts airplane at 18,000 ft. It extends the utility of the E and F dramatically. I am trying to clear out my hangar after the rebuild of my own 1968 F. I did not use this system on my plane as I ended up using a J model cowling which has a different airbox. This system is designed around the original E or F model airbox. I am simply looking to get my cost out of the system. If interested, please e-mail me at john.breda@gmail.com or call me on my cell at (617) 877-0025 in the US. I can send pictures if you like of both the actual parts and also of the installation of this type of system. Thanks, John Breda
  4. For anyone redoing the ceiling panels and good with composites, I have the left and right ceiling panels from an Ovation which I did not use. I bought them for my airplane (a 1968 F) but then got my hands of a full 1998 Ovation interior so I ended up with 2 sets. One set was modified to fit into my F model. The other set was cut to length to fit into the mid-body length but was not otherwise altered. These may be a good starting point for anyone wanting to redo the ceiling of a vintage Mooney. The fiberglass is easy to work with and the panels can be made to fit what you need. It is best to start with a large panel and alter to fit the windows. Give me a call if there is any interest. Cell (617) 877-0025 or e-mail: john.breda@gmail.com You can see the end result on my Album pictures at M20F-1968 John Breda
  5. When I bought my 1968 F as a project airplane, people assured me that the Mooney factory was committed to supporting the older airframes. Throughout the years of converting my plane into a more modern aircraft, I consulted Bill sometimes weekly. He was always very helpful and took a practical approach with his suggestions and advice. I still smile at his character when I think about his answering "How are you Bill?" with a predictable "Terrible, Just Terrible." He has been an asset to the Mooney Factory and the Mooney community. More importantly, he is an example of the honesty, work ethic and passion of the 1950's is being seen less and less in today's world. I sincerely appreciated having Bill there on the other end of the phone. John Breda
  6. Call Beegles Aircraft in Greeley, CO. They are 1 hour NW of Denver. They have been in business for some 60 years and do nothing but structural work. There work is excellent. They have one guy there with a great deal of patience and a good eye. If I were to have anyone do the work it would be Beegles. I would not under any circumstances allow the shop that did the work to try to fix the damage. Or, this may be you opportunity to get your insurance company to pay for TKS. The cost of replacing the wing skins would be about the same. Beegles has the patience and experience to possibly straighten the skin. I would be concerned about work hardening and cracking given the sharp corners of the dent. If not, they certainly could change the skins. Everything would be jigged beforehand. John Breda
  7. Call Beegles Aircraft in Greeley, CO. They are 1 hour NW of Denver. They have been in business for some 60 years and do nothing but structural work. There work is excellent. They have one guy there with a great deal of patience and a good eye. If I were to have anyone do the work it would be Beegles. I would not under any circumstances allow the sho that did the work to try to fix the damage. John Breda
  8. I have brake calipers, disks and other parts from an Ovation. It sounds like you want the double puck brakes. E-mail me at john.breda@gmail.com or call me at (617) 877-0025. Thanks, John Breda
  9. FYI: Mooney Factory cost on this part is about $1000. John Breda
  10. I second the vote for Brian Kendrick. He is one of the key people that helped me with my rebuild. During the rebuild I had difficulty getting the Johnson bar adjusted. The plane went to two Mooney Service Centers without a definitive fix. Brian did some research, went to the factory and looked up some data, and found that there were three lengths of rods on which the main gear springs were installed (despite only 2 different air frame lengths at that time), found the older longer parts, and installed them for a definite fix. My Johnson Bar now operates very easily and quickly. If you know the extend of my project, you will understand the scope of Brian's abilities. He is hones, reliable and fair. John Breda
  11. I purchased some 3M Velcro on e-bay and amazon.com. I got the part number from Aircraft Spruce so look there for the part number. It is expensive but is designed for aircraft use. You need to purchase two rolls, the hook and loop sides come separately. It seems to stick better than most Velcro. John Breda
  12. If you want to turbonormalize your F, I can help.  I have a newly rebuilt RayJay turbonormalized system for an F or E which is available for sale. The price I am asking is quite reasonable and I am looking for someone who has an F or E who needs the system for thje type of flying you mention.   I have a good deal of experience with these systems.   You can call me at (617) 877-0025 or e-mail me at john.breda@gmail.com  I can send pictures and data.  I have all the major components, both STC's, drawing, install manual, parts manual, FAA POH letter.

    Thanks,

    John Breda

  13. There is no magic to the J model windshield conversion. The LASAR conversion uses Mooney Factory parts. The metal Mooney cowl deck (J model or current production will work), the metal wrap around piece that goes over the lower edge of the windshield and the windshield itself which can be purchased from LP Aero Plastics. The rest of that is needed is a the STC paperwork and or a DER to sign off approved data, and a good mechanic, with lots of time and affordable hourly rates. John Breda
  14. This unit sleeps 6 as there are 2 puul out sofas as well. John Breda
  15. You should be anle from an STC standpoint to put a G500 in a C model (check Garmin's STC compatibility list). I have a G600 with alot of other glass Garmin stuff in my 1968 F. You just need to design a panel that make sit work and do the paperwork for legality. John Breda
  16. I have a week available in a two bedroom, 3 bathroom penthouse suite at Casa Bonito Rose in Cabo San Lucas. A web site showing pictures is: http://www.booking.com/hotel/mx/pueblo-bonita-rose.html?aid=356281;label=metatripad-link-dmetaus-hotel-246368_xqdz-c4be86064f919ab2ac59d19317cd4eab_los-06_bw-097_dom-com_curr-USD_gst-02_nrm-01_clkid-VknmhQokHioAABY8H70AAAAZ_tst-0;sid=7a1ec0b3122fee3903ca130d4de1417b;dcid=4;checkin=2016-02-21;checkout=2016-02-27;dist=0;group_adults=2;no_rooms=1;room1=A%2CA;sb_price_type=total;srfid=ec2dd3d88eb61a991108f8df5b6312cd403c765dX1;type=total;ucfs=1& or you can just do a google search. It is a two bedroom, three bathroom, with kitchen, balcony. It is a very large space on the 6th floor. It is for the 51st week of the year (12/20 - 26 - I'll confirm the arrival and departure dates). There is only one such unit and goes easily for $500/night or more. I am asking $2900.00 for the week but can negotiate that a bit. It would be a good Mooney trip from the west coast. I have the week paid for but can not use it. If you are interested, please call me at (617) 877-0025 or e-mail me at john.breda@yahoo.com
  17. What model and year are the planes you are parting out. Do you have long/smooth rudder, ailerons, flaps, smooth elevators? John Breda (617) 877-0025 john.breda@gmail.com
  18. Give me a call at (617) 877-0025. It looks like I am going to buy a Power Tow and could use these if so. You could also e-mail me at john.breda@gmail.com John Breda
  19. I have installed the pin. Yes, it is a fussy install. You mark your spot, drill a smaller hole for the pin to insert in the airframe, and SLOWLY taking only a small amount of aluminum off at a time, file, or use a Dremel tool, to remove metal until the pin just clears the hole and there is no ability for the door to pull open due top the outside low pressure about the plane. Slowing with patience otherwise you will screw it up. John Breda
  20. Bob - Thanks for the mathematical version of your thinking process. No, not sorry that I asked. Guess that makes me a nerd as well. As my post states, I am a frustrated engineer, and as my plane suggests, I don't shy away from projects. Danb - Your post makes me want to play with the AOA more. Have it installed but still learning about the plane and its avionics. John Breda
  21. For what it is worth - I have an Ovation Fuel selector and gascolator, both with 400 hrs total that I will not use. I bought them when I was rebuilding my F thinking I may have use for them. That did not happen. If anyone needs them email me at john.breda@gmail.com Thanks, John Breda
  22. Bob: your "bottom line" is assumed stall speed of 58 knots adjusted by + 1.5(fuel weight + payload)/100 what assumptions provide the 58 and the 1.5 ? John Breda
  23. I would be careful about rugs in the hanger at least under the plane. They will hold moisture and be a possible predisposing factor relative to corrosion. John Breda
  24. I decided to find a permanent fix for this problem and build an aluminum housing which screws to the floor (actually into the fuel selector using 4 screws) and has an internal steel shaft. The assembly raises the fuel selector handle up of the floor by about 3". The steel shaft is held onto the fuel selector by 3 independent mechanisms: 1) geometry of the parts so that it can not come off when assembly in put together 2) roll pin and slot 3) set screw. All done with DER approval and proper documentation and sign-offs. You can see it in my gallery pictures. John Breda
  25. Nicely done. I would be interested in your process as well as anyone who may have a set of travel boards which could be used to copy. Your obviously are for the R model and I believe are different. I would be interewted in copying the travel boards for the F and J. John Breda
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