lamont337

For the same reason you would overhaul your engine and hope to god you don’t have to do it again anytime soon. Or your alternator. Or vacuum pump... Everything wears out. What year is your plane? If you still have original sealant in there I’d say it had a good run. The youngest M20F is over 40 years old. Done properly it may last decades. Sealant inside the cabin is a very good indicator that it was not done properly. Some specialty shops that do this warrant their work for up to 7 years, a pretty good start.

I used AWI to rebuild what was left of my muffler earlier this year, interior baffles were just about gone. Sent in the pipes along with it so they could put everything on their jig and make sure all of the angles were correct. I don’t think they really did any work on the pipes themselves but I’d have to check the work order. Suggest sending everything out to get a real estimate before pulling the trigger on power flow. Are the pipes salvageable or nearly?

Don’t forget the annunciators/CDI

My first thought was also approaches in the area. After that, I’m wondering what you want to do first: actually get your rating or upgrade the plane. If the rating is more important in the short term you could start training with what you have and go from there. You could also rent for a few lessons to get experience on approach types you are not currently equipped for.

Yes, barely. Once the mounts were out of position it allowed me to pull the bolt out at a slight angle.

Assisted my IA, 4 hours so far. Took all the intakes and exhaust off, lower cowl and battery box also. Lots of stuff in the way.

Noticed recently that my spinner was wearing a slight groove in the top of my Lasar cowl closure. I was already planning on replacing my engine mounts at annual but this discovery’s moved up the time line. Bottom mounts were half their original size. Clearance between the ground and the tip of the prop improved by .75 inches. Kinda mad I waited so long. Can’t wait to see how everything lines up once reassembled but we’re waiting on some gaskets and seals. No shims, hoping we won’t need them. For others that have been through this, did you need shims?

What model transponder is installed? An ADS-B transponder likely has a waas position source. Required for ADS-B out but will be of no use for navigation. To verify the equipment is working properly you can pull a report here: https://adsbperformance.faa.gov/PAPRRequest.aspx A WAAS GPS navigator is usually desirable but your mission should define whether or not you actually need one.

Every once in a while an F with a Ray Jay will pop up. Rare but might be a nice compromise.

On my 62C they are threaded. I recently replaced them with the following: https://www.amazon.com/Alemite-Special-Thread-Fitting-Straight/dp/B00KNXO4R4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527808907&sr=8-1&keywords=Alemite+3018+Special+Thread+Fitting%2C+Straight%2C+%236+UNF-2A To remove the old remnants, I used a 1.5mm hex and applied very slight side pressure. Both came right out but of course you have to be very careful not to break the hex/Allen wrench off inside. Both came out with zero resistance, simply unscrewed. Suggest a LockNLube so you don't break the new ones.

Not every plane that has been sitting is scrap and not every engine that has been sitting needs an overhaul, my plane is proof of that. It flew less than 100 hours in the decade before purchase and the engine is running strong 400 hours later. Or at least regular oil changes, filter inspections and oil analysis seem to indicate as such. Your mileage may vary wildly of course. Were my maintenance costs initially higher? Perhaps, but how do we really quantify this? And if my engine started making metal tomorrow would I still blame it on sitting? Am I out of that danger zone? What if I only get to 1900 hours? Have I had more luck than the majority of folks who buy older planes? Who knows.

Search Amazon for: “Alemite Special Thread Straight Fitting 6-40 UNF-2A - 3018” Or just: “6-40 UNF-2A - 3018” I bought 4 recently and bought a LocknLube so I won’t break the new ones

Even a working compass is full of errors ANDS and UNOS? Something like that... There were no compass turns during my check ride in September. If there were, I would have had to remove my foggles to see the compass way up on the center post which seems to defeat the purpose. I would have resorted to using either GPS track or timing during standard or 1/2 standard rate turns. Consider why we do compass turns in the first place: in case we lose heading info due to a vacuum failure. In the age of CRM, even as a single pilot, use everything at your disposal to get yourself on the ground. This includes anything else still functional in your panel as well as ATC. Have you tried a practice PAR or SAR approach? Cool stuff.

Yup, sorry Don. At the very top click “United States” then scroll down to tap/deselect the individual states. In the picture above you’ll notice green check icons and blue download icons. Only the green ones have been downloaded already and can therefore be deleted. The blue ones have not been downloaded yet and will disappear when you deselect the state as mentioned above.

Knew it. It’s a common Apple thing. You can delete texts and emails this way as well.

Swipe the individual line/state to the left to reveal the delete button.

“Because I was inverted.”

Not sure of your exact location but I had a positive experience with an assisted annual at Lapeer Aviation recently. Located at D95. As for Tiffin, my instructor uses them exclusively for his C182 and they have a very nice FBO. I plan to use them to balance my prop in the near future.

Johnson bar: Years of sweat/oil from hands can do that to the finish i suppose. If the finish is that much of an eye sore the parts can probably be removed during annual and re-chromed. DIY kits exist, or perhaps a local motorcycle shop can help you out. Discuss with your future mechanic. What really caught my eye is the slight wear mark in the down lock block. A worn block can possibly lead to the gear bar coming loose unexpectedly. The inside of the block can be inspected with the plane on jacks and looking up into the block. Replacement block if necessary is $390 from Lasar. Nice picture of a worn one on their page: https://lasar.com/mods/ Fuel tank panel: Obviously removed and reinstalled at some point as mentioned above. Logs will hopefully tell you how long ago. If it wasn't logged it would be a pretty big red flag for me. Tank repairs are expensive. Pucks: Given the flexible nature of the shock disk we shouldn't expect the paint to stay put. As @Hyett6420 says above, the condition of the rubber is more important. If anything the paint hides that condition from inspection. The proper way to measure the compression is outlined in the maintenance manual, screen shot below. How did the rest of the wheel well look?

Static drain?

@kerry is this what you had/have?

Wasn’t someone on here looking for a 48 gallon wing not too long ago? I don’t remember how that ended up.

My hub failed the ECI a few years ago. Bought a used prop for 1 amu. I was resealing a tank at the time so $$ was tight. Even so, I don’t think I would have spent $9K on a new prop and wouldn’t today either. Current prop still has the AD. 20 minute flight a $200 gets it done.

Funny, I got locked in a week ago when I landed after my annual. Somehow the lock was stuck at the 45 degree point. My wife was picking me up and parked as i shut down. Good for a laugh, I just handed her the keys through the pilot side window and she was able to unlock it for me. Still a little puzzled how I could have previously removed the key if it wasn't fully rotated in either direction.

Searched "Alemite Special Thread Straight Fitting 6-40 UNF-2A - 3018" on Amazon, $0.60 each so I bought 4 plus a Lock N Lube. Free shipping