Browncbr1

i read that it is 600k without turbo and 650k with turbo

After more discussion with the engine shop, he said he's putting the orange fire sleeve hoses on everything because the insides are all the same teflon tubing with stainless steel braiding. The only difference is molded teflon fire sleeve or braided orange fire sleeve. So, I figured to go with what he said everyone else does and save a little coin. I'll put my old lines on the shelf. Thanks for the input Hank!

Week 13 that CSI has had my cases and still not done. Hopefully not much longer. Meanwhile, I got a call from the hose shop asking if I want to replicate the molded teflon hoses, or if I want to standard orange fire sleeve style. After a bit of conversation, it seems there is no real difference apart from asthetics and price. It seems that the inside core is the same braided metal hose. But, the molded teflon is about $240 more than orange fire sleeve. What do you guys think? The molded brown hose or the orange hose for less cost? They dip the ends of the fire sleeve in silicone before banding at the ends.

If you are making navigator decisions based on project cost, then go with a 650 and flush mount interface an Aera 660 right above it.. there’s your 750 and you have battery backup with syn vision. once you e had electrical failure, you appreciate battery backups. That’s why I went with dual G5s instead of all the other more expensive whiz bang options. once you’ve had pitot failure while flying behind an Aspen, you won’t like them either.

That’s because 172s make money

For my panel, I bought a pack of Avery 6521 labels for $8 and printed with my laser jet. I love it. Very professional looking. Cut close to the text and use tweezers to place on panel. They are clear. Actual clear. Not frosted. They are labels, which I preferred to the entire sheet, so you can store and reuse other labels on the sheet later. I used them for other placards also, like don’t slam the dang door!

You could 3D print labels. If it’s a black panel, use black filament. Relief a border line around text and relief text to same elevation. Once print is above base elevation, switch filament to white or silver. ive also Cnc laser etched and the result is very nice. See how I did my yoke emblem.

I’m glad to see I’m not the only one to have relegated my magnetic compass to the right panel. I really enjoy it not being on the center post.

+1.

Don, if needed, I can model the parts and also 3D print prototypes to ensure proper fit, function, and aesthetics. My background is industrial design. I used to do this kind of thing professionally.

CSI

I’m on week number 10 waiting for the case and crank machine shops to return my already owned parts!!!

Yes, it’s kinda ratty inside, but he says he wants to get an all glass panel. I suggested he get his instrument rating first to even make use of it.

Hi Ian, congrats. I see you’re at KEET. Just a couple weeks ago I ferried and trained up someone based there who bought a K model. So, you are not alone there! Enjoy! craig

@BigTex I'm not sure if this applies to your carbureted engine, but it does on the fuel injected... check that your sniffle valve is draining properly. Mine got gummed up once and fuel would pool up in the intake plenum. This caused the servo to react in a strange way to increase fuel flow and fuel pressure on start up and ground ops until after run up, which would create enough velocity inside the intake to suck the pooled fuel out, then it ran fine and FP and FF went back to normal... the throttle pumping you're doing may be worsening the problem. but, the curious thing about your problem is that your FP doesn't drop when pushing in throttle when the engine isn't running.

I'm late to seeing this thread. I didn't read all of it. In short, yes, the G5 drives the brittain beautifully. It was in the process of going into garmin's install manual, but then Jerry died before the final signoff.. In any case, the G5 has some basic setup programs for cessna autopilots and the brittain works the same as one of them with some values adjusted. You can also just set it up in the custom config. Here are the documents that were going from Brittain to Garmin just before Jerry died. If needed, I can post some photos of my G5 screen with the relevant signal levels shown. iirc, it's 3 degrees per volt max 4.5v, but it's been a long time since I set it up, so just follow the B-12 signal setup values in the attached B12 install manual for your reference. it is simple to setup if you spend time understanding the system. the G5 drives the brittain in gpss/vloc mode using heading signals, so you only need accuflite,... accutrack functions are solved by the G5. i sold my accutrack when i installed the G5s. Brittain G5 Dwg Rev A.pdf G5 Hook Up, No Transformers.pdf Brittain B12 Accu-Flight install manual.pdf

I’m not sure how you could smell fuel coming out of the caps in flight. Your symptom sounds like a small leak somewhere on the leading edge of one of the fuel cells. It runs down the edge sometimes missing the drain hole and goes to the root where it’s open to the cabin. The upper leading edge is prone to leak on mine at fill up also. I usually store in hangar with fuel around tabs because of this.

Mooney’s seem to take gear ups really well as long as they aren’t slammed.. I wouldn’t mind one if properly fixed and majored engine, together with some years of use afterward

Yes, I’ve been in the back of an E (on the ground). I’m pretty skinny. 170lbs 5’11”.. it would be ok on short flights. I wouldn’t want to be in the back much more than an hour without being able to stretch my legs. If it’s just one adult in the back, it’s ok because you can sit sorta sideways and stretch out a little better, but I wouldn’t enjoy the ride with two adults in the back. The extra 10” of the F makes all the difference for legs and baggage volume and more useful. back when I bough my F, I didn’t necessarily need it. An E would have been ok, but I knew that as my two kids grow, I would need the extra space and load carrying ability. I bought forever plane the first time

I like the idea of incorporating the slats on the inside to replace the metal ones and just bolt right in place. I was going to attempt to model a print-in-place wemac and dome, but haven’t found the time. Holy crap wemac vents are expensive. I’d like to get a hold of one to reverse engineer though. Perhaps an eyeball that articulates, but the whole dome swivels on the center pin to modulate flow like the OEM would be easiest to model.

Why waste money on bath bombs when the ignore feature is completely free!?! I’ve really enjoyed ignoring him for a couple years now! I’m guessing he wins for most ignored content on MS. anyhow, to the OPer, you’ve learned, which is the name of the game. File the nasa and share you’re experience with others like you’re doing.

For your mission, it seems that an E would be best. The F is a little longer and higher useful load, but slightly slower (all aftermarket being equal). The E is cheaper to acquire and therefore, cheaper to insure. If you’re going to fill the back seat most of the time, then get an F. In my mind, although a Js cost is so much higher, it is equal to an E because most J’s seem to have less useful load, thereby making their speed and carrying ability similar to Es. (iMHO) turbos are nice, and some people are persuaded by the great TAS up high. However, in the real world, usually a headwinds in the teens will eat up the TAS gains. A good tail wind happens less often than a headwind. Secondly, running higher requires use of O2, which adds quite a bit of cost per person and the higher you go. Some people gaze at those wonderful TAS numbers in the flight levels, but once you wear a mask (required 18’k and up), you will decide it’s not worth the discomfort and hassle or time to climb. You also run into cooling issues way up high without an intercooler. I’ve always said, a turbo is pointless on the east coast unless pressurized vessel. So, if you’re looking at a Ray jay E, I would think of it as a tool to get high to go over nasty weather, but still figure most of your flying would be lower unless you are ok sucking and paying for O2 all the time. I’ve never flown one of the rayjay Stc birds though. I’ve flown K with intercooler and pretty quickly discerned that it would be better to have a turbo twinCo than the K.

that's right!... and not just on the block under the belly...... on my 67F, the indicator needle is so easily bent also... during some interior work on the center console, this is easily bent. the slightest movement of the wire housing can change indications drastically.. also, if trim tube universal joints are removed in order to inspect wear on the guide blocks, an unexperienced technician can reinstall the universal joints 180 degrees or more rotations out of trim.

if your main gear discs are old and flat with a sagging tail, it changes the geometry of the nose gear, which causes a shimmy. the nose wheel doesn't have enough trail when the tail sags too much.

The TO trim marking is ok if there are people in the back seat and luggage. If it’s just me or two up front, I trim at the top or a half dot above the upper marking, but it requires lots of down trim as I speed after lift off.