Browncbr1

Mine has the tanis plug in it, it’s 7/8, but thanks. I’ll try and see what will work.

I understand that, but mine has both connections on the bottom. I’m thinking about unbolting the cooler and turning it upside down over night.

Will a regular stubby 7/8” wrench do it, or should I expect to need to cut one down shorter? 67F model. Thanks!

Both of my oil cooler lines are on top of the oil filter adaptor next to each other like yours. I too have higher oil temp than before rebuild, but that is how it was hooked up previously. I was wondering if it matters which way the flow goes through the oil cooler?

I have a small bag that I labeled 10lbs. extra spark plugs socket & torque wrench w/ extension extra intake gaskets aluminum tape, 3m electrical tape Tube of RTV, tiny bottle of triflow 1qt of oil, w/ filler neck zip ties, paper towels, nitrile gloves small digital multimeter, (one that can ring continuity) screw driver with different heads safety wire & safety wire pliers set of crows feet, w/ socket bar Extra alternator belt flashlight, flares, whistle, misc first aid stuff. extra fuses as per night flight requirements fuel qty dip stick, fuel sump cup

You’re probably right, but takes only a moment to rule out for no cost.

Make sure your sniffle valve is operating correctly so as to drain effectively after shut down. A while back, mine was stuck closed and caused fuel to pool up in the intake plenum. The symptom was very similar to morning sickness / sticky valve on the ground. There was a glob of something in it I assumed to be a bug that came in through the ram air door. It takes 5 minutes to remove and soak in 100LL or hopps.

If I were in your shoes, I’d fly it for a while and get through a couple hundred hours and annual. Maybe by then, Dynon will have their AP approved as an alternative flight deck to garmin if wanted. The GFC is just too expensive in my mind.

First, Look for a loose fitting on your alternator, Then look for a loose fitting where the alternator power cable attaches to your buss bar. If not one of those, look for loose connection with your jpi voltage signal wire on the buss bar and pin on your jpi display.

Iirc, the installation manual for the plane power stc says to adjust the voltage regulator with the meter clips directly on the VR. It says set it to 13.8. When we did that about 7 years ago, the jpi showed 13.6 .. that is when I knew for sure there is some drop or calibration thing going on between the jpi volt signal wire and what reads on the screen. When the engine is not running, the jpi reads lower than actual voltage at the battery. in any case, I’m not EE and I think you’re probably right too. But, I was just sharing what has always been normal for my installation for years. I recently put in new brushes, and the 2nd market rectifier is still in there.

I have the same alternator and voltage regulator. I understand this alternator is OEM in a Suzuki samurai. It is normal to have a lower voltage reading on your JPI sometimes if your battery is fully charged. I would see a higher voltage if it is charging the battery up from being drawn down. As the flight progresses, it is normal to see 13.6 to 13.8. Keep in mind you can calibrate the voltage on the JPI. There is some voltage drop from the battery to the screen of the JPI. If I saw 13.6 on my JPI, I would understand that my battery is fully charged. If I have used the radios on the ground and ran the lights before starting the engine and then had to use the starter a lot, I would expect to see 13.9 or 14.0 for 20 minutes or so and then it will gradually come back down as the battery charges. always check the tension of your drive belt that it is not over or under tight. A few years ago I was getting erratic voltage readings, and I went and ordered a new rectifier from an automotive source, which was an easy swap. It did not solve the problem. It turned out to be a loose connection from the alternator to the bus bar. If you’re reading is stable on 13.6, I wouldn’t see any problem. However, it seems in new rectifier is in order for you since the terminal broke. When bolting back on, do not over torque the copper threads. A little blue thread lock wont hurt

In the comments section of spruce, someone with a m20e posted saying the Bowden .078” is too big for the OEM sheath/casing for a flap control cable. I’m thinking he was trying to use this for the flap indicator cable, which is definitely lighter cable than the ram air door uses. I’ll try to get a caliper on mine later this week. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/stainlesssteel78.php?clickkey=4440

Do you know the size? .041”?

I thought it is torsional vibration from the OEM prop. I have a top prop, which changed the restriction to between 2350-2550 only over 24”

Probably one person removed old system and different person installed new AP.

I have a 67 F with washout. They only did it one year, 67. I don’t think it matters and if anything may slow cruise slightly. I bought the 67 for the jbar. I would prefer not to have the twisted wing actually. i think they did it to help low speed handling and make the stall break more gradual, but in the real world it doesn’t really matter.

Hey David, are you making those cheek panels just for visual inspection purposes or are you going to be able to pull bottom spark plugs also? I’m the head on photo, is that just an optical illusion that makes the hump over the #1 cylinder look bigger than the other side? Or do you need to do that because #1 is farther forward? looking great!

Could be your MAP sensor line has broken a flange or come loose, thus allowing excess air into the relevant cylinder. That would explain some popping and proofing on final and on the ground as well as the MAP that won’t go to normally low indications. however, I don’t think that could possibly cause such a degradation in climb performance as you described.

I’ve used pieces of old convoluted mattress foam to stuff into the big gaps. Works fine, weighs nothing and doesn’t take up space. Sure looks CB on the ramp though.

@Sabremech

What happened to the TP IV?

It’s amazing how a $2k AP becomes a $6k AP after 4 years of bureaucracy.

OK, I flew some more this morning and everything seems fine again. I've got about 6 hours on it so far. The shop told me that if anything is going to happen, it's going to happen in the first 5 hours, so although I don't feel off the hook yet, I'm a little less stressed flying it as time goes by and willing leave the air field now, as I did this morning to fill up with $5 fuel instead of $8. The wife is asking to go to FL with the kids next weekend, but I'm on the fence just yet. I think I'll flying it a few more hours early next week and maybe get to 10 and cut the filter. I bore scoped it this morning while letting the case breath after flying and it looks good. Meanwhile, I'm going to give a summary of the project below for community future reference. The original quote was $14,850 plus $650 round trip shipping. This included a new cam, lifters, pistons, fuel pump, case work, crank and cylinder work, and everything on the mandatory service bulletin 240W. I knew I would be adding a fuel servo, new fuel and oil lines. I also planned on sending the prop gov and oil cooler for overhaul. The price included an operational test run on the rig with a club prop as well as a decent warranty. Here are a few things I paid for separately from the shop $669 for barry mounts, misc hardware and new adel clamps $1497 for a fresh fuel servo from avstar. shout out to Rene at Avstar, who is always willing to help with technical questions. $250 for new baffling material, SCEET for heater intake, silicone tape, fuel siphon, all orings for rebuilding the fuel selector, enamel. $989 for a new oil cooler, because he said the oil cooler shop wouldn't overhaul my original. $156 for new alternator belt Total - $3561 When the final invoice came the shop, I had to call and talk through a number of mistakes, but the final is as follows. $725 for a new cylinder $730 for prop gov overhaul $425 for a yellow tagged connecting rod $1275 for seven new fuel and oil hoses $275 for plating of various parts and hardware So, my total payment to the shop was $7500 deposit, plus $11,179 final Shop Total - $18,679 Grand Total - $22,240 and a hell of a lot of sweat. It would have been more if the motor mount needed repair, but it was in good shape, so just stripped, zinc chromate, enamel while it was off. I already spent $1k putting in new control cables two annuals ago. I'll have to add a couple hundred for prop balancing after break in is complete. I guess you'd have to add 5 or 6 hundred for fuel needed for break in.

There is a static cling roll made by Gila in purple box that not just blocks sun, but is designed to block heat. I put it on my rear windows and it makes a big difference. I’ll try to find the box. I got it at orielly’s.

You could use the blue aluminum box and about 6-8” of SCEET to a NACA or gills out the bottom of the cowl just in front of the left flap. shoot, you could just adel clamp some longer sceet to just go out the flap to at least test it. It could just articulate with the flap. Smash the tube a little flatter and adjust the flap position to account for the exit area