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Matt M

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About Matt M

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Atlantic City, NJ
  • Reg #
    N1159P
  • Model
    M20J

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  1. I flew it many times in a rented Cessna, although I don't think I would do it now in my older age in my Mooney. Maybe somebody else's. Several years back I hitched a ride with the Coast Guard in an HH-65 and did the river tour. We approached the statue and there were several tour helicopters orbiting above. We dropped down to no more than 100 ft off the water and did our orbit. That was quite an experience. Matt
  2. I probably crossed paths with you, topping off the M20C. I worked there Sundays. It was definitely an experience. I stopped in there a few months ago. Place is the same, but with many difference faces.
  3. I didn’t realize your home airport was 39N. I worked there back in 2004-2005 when I went to school at Rutgers. Were you based there back then?
  4. Mine are Precise Flight Speed Brakes. From the install manual: “The SpeedBrake switch is activated ON to fully deploy and OFF to retract the SpeedBrakes. The annunciation indicates deployment when both SpeedBrake® units are deployed. A failure of a single cartridge drive unit will prevent the Annunciator light from illuminating.”
  5. I have electric ones on my J. I have a lighted button on the panel. Push to deploy, push again to retract. I am not sure why you would need an indicator light for each speedbrake. I think you would figure it out pretty quick if one didn’t deploy.
  6. I was in the same predicament as you were. I have the full size iPad 6th Generation 9.7". I didn't want to buy a iPad mini, but didn't want to block the instrument panel. I did a bunch of research and bought some RAM parts to build mine. Mounting it underneath is the way to go. I also have a Otterbox Defender Rugged case on it so it is a bit bigger than no case at all. This is what I ended up with. You can see it doesn't block the view of my Aspen. Room for my hand is reduced because of the case on it, but I still have plenty of room to grip the yoke. It doesn't hit my knees at all either and
  7. I went up tonight to get my night currency. On climb out I noticed my fuel pressure was lower than normal and then noticed my oil pressure was barely in the green and cht and oil temp were abnormally high. I had this same problem a year ago which caused a deviation to another airport. The shop investigated and determined it to be the cannon plug connector. They sprayed some contact cleaner and all was well. I picked the plane up and everything was good to go. Well what I didn’t test last year when I picked it up was turning the panel lights on. I didn’t put two and two together at the time tha
  8. That is the same thing that happened on my J. While flying just about sunset the oil pressure gauge went down in the yellow then into the red, the cylinder head temp gauge and oil temp gauge were pegged in the red. My JPI read normal for the oil temp and cylinder head. I ended up landing since I smelled a burning smell (turned out to be smell from cabin heat). Shop pulled connector off and sprayed contact cleaner in it and fixed it up.
  9. Here is my 82 J after landing at College Park,MD on Monday.
  10. So the verdict was a loose connection that came through the firewall for the engine gauges. They said there is a barrel connector and when they moved the connector they could replicate the problem. They sprayed contact cleaner and fixed the problem.
  11. I see you have an F model. Does anyone know if the J headliner with the eye vents is different to remove? I am leaning toward taking it off and bringing it to an auto upholstery shop and have them cover it in AirTex headliner material.
  12. What was involved with removing the headliner? I know there are several hoses that run to the eyeball vents. Is it just removing some screws and it comes down? I would prefer to take it out. I was just concerned that it would be very difficult? Especially since a few of the big shops said they restore in place.
  13. I am looking to refurbish my interior this spring. Getting an idea of what is involved. I plan on repairing some of the plastic panels and replacing a couple others that are beyond repair. The original plastics are yellowed, I plan on spraying them with SEM paint. My unknown now is the headliner. How hard is it to remove? I am concerned because a few of the big shops mention restore in place. If I did keep it up I could spray it, but it would be a pain. I have seen a bunch covered in fabric. Is this usually done in place? Matt
  14. Thanks for the info. I will have to check out the product that aircraft spruce sells. As you can see from the attached photo they used a lot of RTV on the element. I need to get it all off so the new one will adhere to the oil sump. Luckily the company is replacing it under warranty. The manufacturer said they probably bent it a certain way during installation damaging the element. I am not sure the heater has ever been used since it's been installed.
  15. My Mooney has a oil sump heater installed on it. I recently tried it out and it appears it’s not working. Oil temp doesn’t increase and element is cool to touch. Vendor is sending me a replacement unit. The heating element had self adhesive on it and they told me I could simply pry it off with a putty knife once the orange RTV silicone that surrounds the unit is removed. What’s the best way to remove the RTV silicone from the oil sump? I see Permatex makes a RTV silicone dissolver, but it didn’t get high reviews. Matt
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