Browncbr1

If anyone wants to reposition next week, I have a shade hangar in Knoxville (TYS) available, as my plane is at Cole for annual. allegiant has direct flights from TYS all over Florida cheap.

I’m just wondering where the thick chicks are hiding

Thanks man. No, it never did this until a couple weeks ago. It was always very stable before. I think I’ll pull the oil hose, make sure it’s clear and put back together.

@Marauder Somehow I came across this old thread and was increasingly expecting to see your ladies at the end, but alas, it seems you went back to work and forgot to have the final say. You know, It’s never to late to settle things.

Thanks for the advice. Yea, I should check the fittings a little closer. Any recollection on which snubber fitting you used?

Hey everyone. I’ve got what appears to be erroneous oil pressure readings. The OEM garwin oil pressure gauge is steady in the green, but the jpi gets erratic spikes. I have cleaned and re-terminated the connections at the sensor. I looked for chaffed wires and made sure the db plug is secure in the back of the edm display. anyone have any ideas of other things I should check before dropping $300 on a new sensor?

If you’re going to mess with the sniffle, remove it completely and soak it in 100LL or hopps. Blow it out. Make sure the little ball inside toggles freely. Simply tightening hose clamps on the elbow does nothing.

that's the kind of engine surging that seems like a clogged fuel servo screen, but it doesn't make sense because you're getting enough FF to fly it.. .. it might be worth the simple effort to clean that anyway... i don't think that kind of surging could be caused by the sniffle valve or intake gasket.. I see you had the flow divider rebuilt... hmmmm ... I see you are checking into the mechanical fuel pump cooling shroud... that's important

i've thought about this and decided that I want to do whatever I can to be inbound on the localizer 1.5-2nm from the threshold at 1000agl clean and don't touch gear or flaps until landing assured... as you get close, but still haven't broken out, if you have a johnson bar, you can let just a little bit of the gear down and modulate drag if needed... if you come up a little short, a couple pumps of flaps will help you float just a little further or balloon over a fence or tree to make the field. If there's a lot of wind, maybe reduce to 1-1.5nm from threshold. Hopefully, I've had enough glide time to do some calculations.

I concede you’re right. If the approach is activated, it will also automatically switch to LOC mode if you intercept the approach I think 1.5 miles before the FAF? in any case, sometimes I think of loading/activating the gps lpv approach and switching to LOC if they give it to me. One time the GS disappeared from the ILS signal, so I hit the CDI button and continued the lpv gps. I also always have ILS tuned and ready if I lose raim or something on a gps approach, i just hit the CDI button. The proper procedure is to terminate and go around, but…

That should be enough. You intercepted under the gs, right?

I believe there is a minimum distance from the FAF that app mode must be enabled for it to capture the GS. How far were you from the FAF when you intercepted the final course and pressed app?

It doesn’t auto slew in obs/Loc mode. It only auto slews for gps approaches. If the needle is green, you’ve pressed CDI to get the loc or VOR signal and need to adjust the course.

I flew a G58 with the NXi upgrade. The boot and everything else is instant. Screens are perfect. I never flew the straight g1000, so not sure what I can compare the nxi to.

I can’t believe folks are charging 20k for a basic interior design. Maybe I should go into business

I quit aopa when they did little to nothing about signature’s price gouging. Then, nothing when Tac air unjustifiably increased rent by almost double even though my lease clearly said no more than 5% renewal increase. Now signature just bought Tac air here. Figures.

Some of the beech guys are buying these up. I have held one in my hand. Quality is nice. Some argue that filtration and flow is better than paper. To me, that sounds impossible unless the filter area is bigger, but it’s actually smaller than the paper area. It’s roughly the same cost as 10 tempest filters and already back ordered also. I’m not sure what the bypass spring tension is set at. it would be nice to not have to cut filters though. I would probably buy one if price was a bit lower.

if you find a 231 with an intercooler, such as turboplus as mentioned above, just save the ~$100k premium of a 252 and just go for the intercooler 231... There is actually one for sale in the classified forum that is near here in east TN.

harbor freight sells plastic ones that are also good for scraping sealant... https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-nonmarring-scraper-set-95832.html

It’s amateur hour…. No…. Amateur year…. No, Years! what an embarrassment

mine was mounted to the back of the copilot seat by the previous owner. I found that it would have been impossible to remove it from the strap by myself in flight. So, i have it laying on the floor board fully aft of the pilot seat against the bulk head. This way, I can grab it with one hand immediately.

Does anyone know of a source for the correct heim bearing for this application. Iirc, it’s an HM3. I haven’t been able to find one in stock anywhere, so I quit looking last year.

Intake riser gaskets, spark plugs and copper washers

thanks for the summon A… @Will.iam It’s a 12v I know there are step down voltage adapters available for 24v plugs. this thing is too big and pita to ship,,, Sorry!

Right, I’m just talking about the expanding threads that go into the aluminum transducer housing. The jpi housing is easy to crack after just a few threads. Putting thread sealant on flare fittings would be useless. Haha