Browncbr1

Who is the underwriter for 2020 and now? What’s the Hull value and premium if you don’t mind asking?

mine went up 13%.. QBE non-renewed me, so the most competitive alternative was Old Republic.. both my insurance and my shade hangar are now almost double what they were in 2017.

That’s my point…. There is no 100UL option for mooney either. I was wondering why there hasn’t been incentives for developing a new power plant to run on JetA instead of trying to redevelop fuel.

I don't know why no one else seems to think a FADEC controlled turbo diesel burning JetA is the the future for piston powered planes. California is about to forbid the sale of 100LL all together.. Turbines are too expensive for most owners. Diesels provide a retrofit path for aging piston fleet to have a way out of the politics of 100LL without the distribution issues of 100UL. JetA is cheaper and more widely distributed also. After years of government trying to unsuccessfully get the industry to develop 100UL, I don't get why there is no incentive for engine manufactures to come up with a diesel power plant that can replace 100LL burners.

Today, I got the right panel put in and few other things. I was short a few screws and had to make unexpected adjustments behind the panel, but I’m glad to be done with it now. iPad now clips in nicely and can slide right if need to check the strikefinder.

CO poison

Don’t forget oil pressure relief valve gasket.

I’m at TYS in Knoxville. Not only is there not hangar space in Knoxville, but there is a long wait list. Someone needs to develop another air park around here for full time residence.

Put me on your list also David. thanks craig

If no corrosion, no big deal. It’s just remove it from behind the sidewalls and just some insulating closed cel foam in there.

I got the placards on the panel today. Now it’s ready to install. I have a 3D print bezel that will go around the garwin gauges to make them look cleaner.

I’m sure. The porcine just converts a digital signal to analog with max +/-150mV.. The b805 uses a max +/-4.5v signal from the accuflite iirc. You would just need to amplify the signal, then you can fine tune gain on the porcine.

removing PC makes VFR flying around sight seeing more fun... the controls are a little lighter... you will want it for IFR though. the good thing about brittain is that you don't need support. All you need is some electrical tape every 5 years or so...

If I were you I would keep the PC. If you come across a Brittain accuflite, then you’ll have a nice AP. Or it is possible to hook up a porchine device if you can get an bi805 valve. The PC is a big helper in turbulent IMC.

I’ve seen a few experimental GFCs installed by ferries…. You wouldn’t know unless you pulled them out to look at part numbers.

If you want the bulletproof manual Johnson bar gear and hydro flaps, you’ll have to go F model pre 69. I think a few 68’s had them, but the most popular year for F models was 67, before republic owned mooney. F usually have better useful load, but usually 5 or 10kts slower than a J.

I’m sure the FAA’s inability to approve a reasonably priced AP is driving some owners to install experimental versions. I have seen a few examples around.

I took some pieces of the left panel to match paint after cutting for the jpi. Orielly’s mixed a custom enamel to match and put it in an aerosol can. They are supposed to charge $32, but the guy insisted it was free after I bragged on him a little bit. I’m going to let the panel dry a few more days before applying placards. I upload a photo then. I purchased Avery 6521 for my laser jet to make placards. They came out very nice. $8 I’m also printing tow limits and don’t step on flap and other placards I’ve needed for a while. After I get the panel wrapped up, my next project is working on the baffles. I ordered all new reinforced baffle material, rivets, and some 4130 round bar to replace a missing threaded rod on the underside of #1&3. I 3D printed a tool to hold a wine bottle cork that I glue some scotchbrite pad to do circular brushing. Do you guys think this kind of finish would make my baffles look nice or is it too much?

Here you go... I made one with generic mounting flanges, as your application will likely be different from mine, so you can cut and drill as needed. JPI 830 mount bezel.stl JPI 830 mount.stl

@Sabremech any update on your cowl project?

Update: I got the JPI reinstalled with 3D print flush mount bracket and bezel. I may print another bezel that will incorporate a washer for the panel bolt on the top right, just so it doesn’t interfere. I rebuilt the fuel selector and reinstalled. It’s actually pretty easy and I’m glad I did. It’s only about $20 worth of orings and the orings I removed didn’t look very good. There was also bunch of grime and some surface corrosion on the shaft. Now it feels smooth and sure. I went ahead and swapped the mixture and prop controls back to their original positions because I never liked how tight of a fit the mixture cable had under the engine. This will give just a little more room to hook back up to the plenum with less effort and put less stress on the clamps. I noticed the clamps had some stress fractures when I removed them. I also did a final fit check of the right panel before painting.

how much do you think an overhaul will cost now vs a couple years? My thinking is that if I'm going to be grounded for a few months for an overhaul, I'd rather do it on my own terms during the time of year of minimal usage. I recently had a similar situation, but actually, my engine was lower time and it sounds like better condition... I decided to overhaul with the two questions above bearing much influence over my decision.

just wondering if there could be a section for training and ferrying talk, where anyone who is looking for a mooney discovery flight, dual, or ferrying could go to find all relevant threads. i see these sorts of topics appear usually randomly in the three main forums..

Yes, I heard of one guy who ordered an engine from a shop that ships after the last bolt is put in. They spent big bucks just trying to figure out what was wrong after reinstalling…. Finally, it turned out that the cam wasn’t properly timed.. a 1 or 2 hour run in with atleast a club prop, if not a dyno is super important in my mind. also, I forgot to update on the engine Bill said the engine post tear down looked to be in good shape. The case is at CSI and the crank, rods, and gears are also at the machine shop awaiting inspection and prep for reassembly.

Mine is waiting on its new engine too. I cleaned up the firewall and discontinued my effort to buff and polish.. it just wasn’t worth the effort for the relatively small difference…. Planning copper orange alodine push rod tubes and intake risers, some continental colors on the case and cylinders, brushed exhaust.. I’m going to go ahead and replace all the silicone on the baffle and thinking about doing a circular brushed pattern on the aluminum. It’s pretty old and tired and that’s about the only way to make it presentable. I can’t seem to find where you can buy an all new baffle kit for a 67F