RLCarter

I would hope that a "shop" isn't paying retail for their parts, with that said i general priced my stock at retail. I always told my customers they were free to shop around for a better deal or I could have them out by the end of the day. Aviation is strange market that I'm trying to get my head wrapped around (working with an A&P/IA) and on getting a functional parts dept. for both aircraft in for service and over the counter sales

I can assure you that the EAA knows what Dynons standards are. This all comes from the Part 23 re-write, which is long over due.. Technology changes very rapidly, and the certification process takes way to long. I'd be willing to bet that by the time a product gets its blessing the manufacture is already in the process of getting the paper work in order for the next big break through. I have never understood why I can install a product like the Dynon Skyview in my experimental and have the FAA certify it for IFR, but install it in a certified aircraft and all hell breaks loose.... The component(s) has no idea what or where it is mounted in and would function the same reguardless. Spending major bucks on the on an aging GA aircraft makes no sense to me, spending a fraction of that might, but right now 6 gauges and an iPad works just fine even in IMC.

Awesome, sounds like you've been bitten by the aviation bug.

Plane Plastics has them, I installed all 4 pieces that go around the front wheel well (flap/trim indicator) on my 65 E, just give them a call not all their products are listed.

The wheel wells are probably the hardest part to prep/paint but luckily one of the few places anyone ever sees. Use several different shaped stiff bristled brushes to get into everywhere you can (corners and seams especially) with lacquer thinner. This will remove most of the grime, oil and flaking paint. Use Red Scotch Brite pads to scuff or fully remove the existing paint. Any bare aluminum will need to be primed, I would use Zink Chromate or just make sure the primer you use is for Aluminum as it requires a conversion coat or the paint wont stick. Wipe the area down one last time with thinner before applying any type of paint. Paints (color and primer) bounds 2 different ways either a chemical bond which is best or a mechanical bond, too long between coats means you have to scuff the previous coat so read the instructions on the paint you are using for times. Light coats are much better than heavy coats which generally will result in runs in the paint plus thick paint chips off easily when dry. To keep runs to a minimum on both the primer and paint the first coat should very light (dusting) and allow to tack up before the second coat which still wont be a full coat (still see through in places), your third (or 4th coat if needed) coat will be your cover coat so watch for runs, any blemishes that pop up during any of the painting will generally get bigger so don't try to hide them with more paint.Be sure to mask off any area you don't want paint on, and remember paint will hang in the air and fall on top of wings, fuse and stab. Common issues with painting are "fish eyes" which is contaminate on the surface, "orange peeling" which is either too much air and/or not enough paint, "dry spots" too little paint,moving to fast and/or too much air, "paint runs", too much paint, too slow, too much air. Hope this helps, just remember don't get rushed

Can't remember which make/model but it is a stand alone DME (not paired) was installed in a buddies C172 for a grand, used unit, new antenna and labor. Works fine, GPS's can be installed multiple ways, VFR only, IFR Enroute, IFR Approach and I think there is another one as well, then the cost of keeping it up to date. On the cheap go DME and get an iPad.

Water injection would be cheaper than N2O, but staying on the "Spray" using either during climb out would sling parts.....lot-o-parts.

Turning off each component/radio is a pain, my Mooney has an Avionics Master but I still find myself turning each piece off at times

We’re talking about particulates that are in microns (0.00004”) on engine designs that are almost as old as the dirt we’re trying to keep out. Chances of a properly installed and serviced K&N air filter taking out an engine of any kind is slim to none. My diesel is pushing 240K miles with no signs of premature wear due to dirt ingestion. I would be willing to bet that an engine failure do to dirt getting past the filter was either a damaged filter and/or an improperly installed/serviced filter. The reason my E doesn’t have a Challenger (K&N) filter is cost and paperwork, it already had the Brakett filter which the replacement foam is $20.00 vs $235.00 for the K&N. Any time you can get more air there is the potential for more power. Aircraft are unique in the fact that we can change the mixture relatively easy compared to ground based counter parts which must be re-jetted on carbureted or re-mapped if fuel injected to see the full gain. At altitude the amount of dust is minimal compared to on the ground so un-filtered air doesn’t bother me one bit. Everyone is entitled to their opinions & beliefs and I find it hard to believe that K&N would still in business after 45+ years if in fact they were making an inferior product. Also my guess if your seeing minimal MP increase with the Boost Air opened, is that the door isn’t sealing to begin with, I have rebuilt my door/seal and it’s a pain hand fitting the seal.

Texas Gyro try these guys, really nice folks

don't over tighten the screws that hold the lens, lexan / plexi cracks easily.

§45.29 Size of marks. (a) Except as provided in paragraph (f) of this section, each operator of an aircraft must display marks on the aircraft meeting the size requirements of this section. (1) Fixed-wing aircraft, must be at least 12 inches high, except that: (i) An aircraft displaying marks at least 2 inches high before November 1, 1981 and an aircraft manufactured after November 2, 1981, but before January 1, 1983, may display those marks until the aircraft is repainted or the marks are repainted, restored, or changed; Not wanting to start an argument but the way I read it, is that it is fine for 2" numbers IF they were there before 11-1-1981 and you don't repaint or am I reading it wrong?

45.29 of the FAR's sets the pace for the registration marking size, once the aircraft is repainted it must have 12" markings. Mexico would not be the place to argue 10" vs 12", they require 12" markings as does ADIZ or DEWIZ here in the U.S.

I agree, the quoting on quotes with or with out pictures can go on for ever, to only see a one or two word reply at the end.

Check the screw where the biggest majority starts at, it has been replaced (doesn't match the others) to see if it is loose. "Smoke streaks" will drive you nuts keeping them cleaned off, its just the nature of aluminum when it rubs on anything or visa-versa and then gets wet with ANY liquid, its a ritual on the 172 I fly to wipe them off around the cowl / firewall area after each flight (should add it to the check list). I would remove the filter and clean of all the metal parts involved (including the screws) and go fly it again, if nothing else at least you went flying

Looks like a Challenger air filter (K&N), my bet would be excess oil from the filter, it takes very little along with some chaffing to cause streaks. Is it only on that one side?

could be residual oil from the air filter, but need to see where it is coming from. Did you fly thru visible moisture?

I used the self adhesive material I had left over from doing the Interior Insulation (aircraft spruce). From what I have read, the insulation is more for vibration dampening with with added benefit of thermal protection. I sealed the panels up with this stuff when I was done

Well not all of them.... My "E" ends with an "8", go figure...

The parts diagram has a discrepancy , item # 23 and # 24 don't match the descriptions (something is reversed). Where are you located in Mexico?

My wingwalk had the same stains along with dried paste wax and who knows what else. I used soap & water and a soft bristle scrub bush, once clean and dry I sprayed WD40 and wiped it off really good with a cloth, took less than an hour and looks good. The WD also darkens the wingwalk paint which tends to get chalky after time.

Talked to LASAR today about the kit in SB M20-144....$400.00 is a bit spendy, so I ordered 2 new springs ($27.00 ea.). I remember reading somewhere to angle the exhaust pipe down to help with heat & noise, but can't find any reference to what it should be. I have a 65 E with the Hanlon & Wilson muffler any ideas where to find the angle of the exhaust pipe?

There's an Advisory Circular that deals with the mounting (can't remeber the #) Several years ago during my Instrument Ck ride, the DPE had me remove the iPad from the yoke mount so it would be legal. Basically it said it had to signed off by an Avionics shop regardless of mount and power supply.

My 65' E has no provisions for sun visors on the sides, just FYI

I stow it as well (except once)….. When I told the owner the next day of my screw up he asked if acted like divining rod and pointed to the runway during the approach (smart ass). A week latter at lunch I was handed the tow-bar which is now a large and awkward key fob and reminded of when he was constantly losing his keys in collage and I took his keys a put them on a Hula-Hoop so they would be easier to find and that he has patiently waited 37 yrs to pay me back.