RLCarter

Flyhigh603 Unfortunately you asked a loaded question to a group that has a few HIGHLY opinionated members. I spent the better part of 2 yrs looking and comparing different airplanes, not just Mooney’s. I went with a Mooney because they are fast enough for a serious x-country (S. TX to MI), but cheap enough to go bore holes in the sky when I want. If you talk to A&P’s that have worked on a few Mooney’s or Pilots for that matter, they both say the same, Mooney’s are tight and they are right. But I’m 6’1” and around 230ish and fit fine, if you haven’t flown or flown in one do so, totally different sight picture from the Cessna’s. It sounds like you have done some homework, now to drill down to a model in your price range. I looked at a “G” (mid-body / 180hp) and talked myself out of it, I compared it to having a 6cyl corvette. I found an “E” that was way under my budget and have put close to 10k in it and I’m still under your budget of 30k, so yes it can be done. Good luck in finding your Mooney and take all the negative replies you’ve received and pitch them out the door. Now for all you NEGATIVE people, MSC’s are not the only people that can repair, inspect or maintain a Mooney. Mooneys fly just fine without a glass panel or anything else you’ve spent money on and think we all should do the same to keep our little birds from Texas in the air. I’m sure Mooneyspace was meant to help fellow owners or future owners, not bash and belittle them. As a pilot you should try to promote GA and as a member of Mooneyspace you should promote Mooney aircraft not just your personal bird. Are you kidding me, earnings in the Top 1% to own an aircraft, you do know that is the 400k range don’t you? Luckily it was just his opinion…lol

Check the resistance across the terminals of the Circuit Breaker, if the resistance is more than a couple of OHM's the CB is not making a good contact internally. High resistance is HEAT, CB's have a bi-metal spring which causes the Breaker to trip

Original drawings would be nice, lasar cut and engrave and your done.

Alex, Here is Better Link to the manual('s) you should be able to save them to your computer from there. If you need more info let me know (pm) and I'll get you hooked up if possible.

The "leather like" is actually Felt (item 11) This is for a 1965,

I made my own as well, while still on the gear I checked the collars and all three were off the plate on the gear so removed them and ran a zip tie thru the bolt hole in the shock link to keep them some what in place once it was raised. The mains compress fairly easy, the nose gear will tax your nerves, welds and the jack. Mine took most of the day but I also did tires, bearing and brakes. Did a buddies F several moths later (donuts only) in 3 hrs

Come up with a price and let me know

The insulation serves 2 purposes, the skins are not structural on the fuselage and the insulation serves as a vibration dampener for the skins and therefore MUST be glued down, its second purpose is for noise/temp control

I would guess that the inlays and arm rest don't flex as much as a seat cushion does, I used the SEM paint on my motorcycle seat 12 or so years ago and its fine and its seen temps from below freezing to over 100.

SEM Products, 2 tone on leather (used an HVLP touch up gun), used the lighter grey on upper plastics and headliner and the darker grey on lower panels, vents, hatrack trim and windlace

I've used regular PVC glue with the light weight cloth, also melted ABS plastic in MEK, both worked fine. 3M makes an ABS repair kit.....

You are rocking along at a fairly good pace. You'll have a really nice bird in short time, but I have to ask about your lack of foot wear seeing how you like break glass things.... :) Keep up the good work

Wouldn't "0"(zero) be the minimum? Here's a video of Tail Flutter

91.207 is part of Subpart C which covers "Equipment, Instrument and Certificate Requirements". Starting at 91.401 deals with Maintenace, which must performed in accordance with the Manufactures procedures, Mooney publishes a 100/Annual Guide, Item 23 of the Airframe section states " Inspect ELT as required by FAR 91.207d(1--4)." so it is now part of the annual inspection as per Mooney.

ELT check is part of the 100/annual, ELT battery replacement might warrant an additional charge, $58.00 for the dip stick o-ring sound more like the dipstick tube o-ring. If I was the guy with Cardinal, I would be pissed if they tried to hide something like that. If I was called and told about it I would probably accept a repair, if I found out after the fact they would be paying to have the whole skin replaced at shop of my choice.

Time wise it seems about right, I spent about 2.5 hrs but the plane was already de-cowled and all I did was remove the old hoses fab new ones install the fire sleeve and reinstall them, safety wiring the Prop after installing a new belt was a royal PITA.

Ever consider just making them yourself? Just did my 65 E oil cooler lines, not that hard to make.

'Hand Tight" is the issue, it should be until the sealing gasket contacts the sealing surface, then the 3/4 turn. We can split hairs, but either method (hand or torque wrench) works as long as the method is done correctly. Temperature, friction of the threads and seal....etc ALL will alter the "Actual" torque. Why did Tim's filter come loose? Who knows, seal shrinkage, safety wire too loose, burr on the threads giving a false feeling of being seated or a combination of things. Not having an answer as to why, I would put some marks on it and check it often for movement

Hand tight + 3/4 turn will result in a different torque almost every time, your ability to get a grip on the filter might greater or less than the guy standing beside you. The oil filter torque wrench for me is a gadget and just another thing that needs calibrated, I use the stamped steel wrench one which is actually a torque wrench adapter, if you don't feel like doing the math each time just stamp or engrave it on the wrench.

I'm sure Bellofram makes a good product but I didn't find one that is an exact match of the dimensions for the step servo, plus what I have read on here is that it's the same money if not slightly more. I honestly don't see retail being much more than $25.00 for either Brittain's or Bellofram's, at a lower price I would replace every 5 years or so as preventive maintenance, at current price it gets replaced when it fails.

To make a small fortune in aviation you start with a large fortune!

Didn't want to start a new thread so I'll add to this one seeing it is related. I read on MS that there was a possibility that the step servo seal (boot) was also used on a Beechcraft as a yaw dampner, I contacted Brittain and had them pull the drawing for part # 1551 and it WAS used on both the Mooneys and I believe he said the early King Airs. With that info in hand I set out to find a Beechcraft guru that might have one (same part# for Moonies and Beechrafts) in stock, with in a few hours I located a guy that had 2 in stock. I didn't call Beechcraft directly so I'm not sure if they have them or have another supplier other than Brittain, at $93.17 each + shipping I purchased both of them (few bucks more than sending mine in for repair, if the parts were available). One is going on my plane in the morning the other I'm going to take around to some of the injection molders I know and see if the would be willing to do something with it and get them back on the market. The other one will be available for sale if the mold makers don't bite.