RLCarter

I'm on the Third Coast (Gulf of Mexico) and was able to get several hours of actual, also did a few "simulated" instrument takeoffs which were kinda cool

Congrats on your new rating and as you said, "Now the real learning begins". Just wondering during your training did you get much "Actual IMC" time?

Nothing I have found, several have made their own that mount to the center bar, I have a set of articulating ones that in the process of finishing up (more of a back burner right now)

I would start over from scratch (news weights and new arms) and follow the procedures in the book (W&B dated 9-2015 was done with full fuel) book says fuel & oil drained (not calculated). The numbers are not adding up, my guess would be small errors over the years which carried forward each time. You showed the W&B for 1966 and 2015, what about the one just before 2015, what does it show?

A second Comm/Nav radio would be good to have, but it isn't needed to get your rating. I would get a DME and start training, even with what you have you can do an ILS, LOC and a VOR approach as long as the ILS doesn't require DME I received my instrument rating 2yrs ago with basically your panel plus a DME and an iPad running Wing-X.

load would be less than when flying, if the wind gets stronger than that it's the insurances plane at that point so I'd doesn't matter

It's caused by fuel being on the filter, I've seen it a lot on motorcycles with foam filters until the filter manufacturers went to a fuel resistant foam. Backfiring also ignites any fuel there but you can definitely see burn marks if that was the case

3914N, Your going to like the ipad mini, if you haven’t chosen an app yet I suggest looking at the most commonly used (there are even some free ones) ForeFlight, Wing-X and Garmin. I personally use Wing-X and love it (very short learning curve). You say your biased against mounting on the yoke or knee and I’m sure like all of us you have your reason(‘s). I personally don’t like the knee board, too much head down time. Suction cups fail, plus I don’t want to obstruct any of view out a window. My panel is the typical “Shot Gun” layout as are most of the older Moonies so the yoke was an obvious choice for me and not block any of the panel, mine is mounted to the pilots yoke using the X-grip, this keeps it right in front and is easily accessible. If you fly in the soup it right there in your scan with no head movement. My only other suggestion is whatever app you choose, learn it and get proficient on the ground with its functions.

Give these guys a call, J&J Air Parts.

I have the wind lace along with a new door seal, haven't put them on yet cause I was in & out along air hoses and electrical cords a million times and didn't want it to get damaged

Thanks to everyone, I got the clips & rear seat cushion installed. It was a little tough stretching the leather on the seat which to my knowledge had never been installed correctly, should be easier next time after the leather loosens up a bit.

So I seemed to have spent another day getting very little done. I did manage to get the hooks made by using 30# picture hooks, not as wide as the originals but should work just fine. After cutting the tops off I went ahead and ran a drill bit thru the slotted hole already there and drilled the second hole (FYI holes are on 0.350" centers) then pinching the clip around the 3/16" bar to make fit a little better. Parts catalog called for #4 PK screws which I have but the mounting holes on the aircraft seemed to be drilled for a #4 machine screw (there is no evidence of a sheet metal screw ever being threaded in to it) so its off to find #4 machine screws and locknuts so I can scratch it off my list and move on.

Been following "3 leather hides", I'm all in for the DIY projects. The leather seats in our plane were in really good shape but in a light brownish tan, so I used "SURE COAT" a SEM product and painted them (I paint way better than I sew) along with all the other interior panels and plastics.

HRM PITA is correct, I have had all the interior out on a low budget redo so to speak. Yetti it seems I'm really lucky that you have yours out for a redo as well, can’t thank you enough for all the photos you have posted, my only concern is on the rod lengths photo, that isn’t a blood smear is it? I got out to the hangar around 10 this morning and went by my IA’s hangar to see if he had something to use as clips based on the photo of Alex’s D/C, ended up spending the all day giving him a hand on rigging and swinging the gear on an old Beech 18 he is resurrecting. I want to thank all of you for your help and photos on this. Cyril or Clarence I think everyone here would be interested in the miracle tool for installation….I'll be back out at the hangar in the morning and get this knocked out.

If your looking for just the plastic button, Radio Shack might have one that will work.

Yetti, On mine with the clips missing the seat cushion migrates forward and up, making it look like the cushion is over stuffed. Headed out to the hangar this morning to see if I can turn a 20 minute job into an all day project.

So you guys are saying the rear rod is actually 2 rods (left and right) splitting the center lap belt attach point?

Rob, thanks for the heads up on Alex's photo, that is what I was needing and should be able to get with in an1/8" or so which will work just fine

Not sure velco would hold the tension on the springs, the rear hooks are missing, I had the seat back out as well and nothing, not even any holes or evidence they were there. There was a C on the field for a while and I helped him pull the rear seat out, it was a pain to hook the rear bar.

Was reinstalling the rear bench seat bottom on my 65 E, the seat cushion has the pockets sewn in for the rods at the rear and on the part that covers the fron of the spar. When I removed the seat there was only one rod on the front so I purched another rod for the back but there are no hooks to attach it to nor does it look like the hooks where ever there(no holes) anyone have an idea of where the hooks attach as far as deminsions go, hooks are no issue to fab up but the location would be critical in keeping the seat bottom tight. One last thing are the rear hooks bolted, riveted or what, parts book shows different part numbers for the front and rear hooks. Any pictures and deminsions would be greatly appreciated.

Gear speed is for the doors I think, the D's had fairings. Anyone have the numbers for a D?

It is rare to see a "D" that hasn't been converted

If you remove the engine completely as with most single engine aircraft the tail WILL hit the ground, by lifting from the engine (while attached) you are actually lifting less than the engine weighs which is putting less strain on the mounting attach hardware than it has when just sitting in the hangar. Most A&P’s have been weighing the tails down and/or using a prop stands on various aircraft for years with no issues. I’m not sure what prompted Mooney to publish SI M20-114 but they did, so that is the procedure that I follow. What I find odd are the ones that think only MSC’s can work on their birds but neither the owner or the A&P follow the current protocol for lifting the aircraft. Two things to think about, 1) The FAR’s state you have to follow the Manufactures recommended procedures, so are you in violation? 2) You or someone doesn’t follow SI M20-114 and the aircraft falls off the jacks or gets damaged in some way, does the insurance have to pay?

Takair, leather was done done by a local HotRod shop, I had the wires taped to the yokes then made all the connections when I got the back, seems to work ok so far

Below is what I used, allows PTT with your index finger leaving your thumb free to use the PC disable at the same time. Held on with Velcro and doesn't bother my grip of the yoke.