RLCarter

Surprised your RH Mag even works, that Prop governor cable looks like it has come apart and the cable looks frayed as well. Turning the clamps around would give you some room, but my guess is the bracket isn’t installed correctly either

Isn’t there a bulletin to remove it?

You seem to have several choices, so I’ll add one more…… like others have said, go with the electronic regulator if you can get it, old mechanical regulators work but I would never go back with one given a choice

@GEE-BEE AEROPRODUCTS has really nice kits, I rolled my own before I knew about the above products.

lol, I still use XP

Right answer

WOW…… pictures of the new panel?

yep, been fishing several times

has to easier than the one I had

Been looking those, probably they way I’ll go. How hard is to navigate and focus for a full 360 of the cylinde?

The 2 extra pieces cover the nose wheel well or at least that’s what AirTex told me when I did mine 5 years ago

@EricJthe VA-400 is what my old IA had…. Unfortunately it’s not compatible with Apple…. Guess I could always use an old laptop

Ok guys and girls, went to use my inspection camera yesterday and it wouldn’t come on, new batteries installed and still nothing, but while just laying on the bench I did witness it last breath in the form of a little puff of smoke. My old one a real pain to use (aim) but with enough patience it did work fair. I’ve seen several pictures on here of some really good shots of the valves, cylinder walls and piston tops and was wondering what was used. My old IA had one that would articulate 180° for the valves but it was Android based and I have Apple products. Not a big fan of the mirror attachment as mine has fallen of the mount twice (heat gets the glue) and I’ve to fish it out of the cylinder. Preferably would like it to be compatible with my iPhone and/or iPad and have an articulating head. So tell me what you’ve got, actual pictures from it would be nice as well. Thanks in advance

I use blue and should have said painters tape, my bad. I’ve used painters tape for soooo long it’s just masking tape to me

I wet wash several times a year and fly it 30 minutes or more to dry it, I also Triflow all the moving parts when I get back from the “fly dry”. I use detailing spray in between wet washes, @PeteMc and others I use 1” masking tape to cover the static ports, spool off a couple feet of tape and fold it back onto itself leaving 1” left to stick over the port. With a long tail the prop wash blows it off should you forget, also use a little alcohol to clean any adhesive residue from around the port. Also been known to fly through a light rain, harder on the prop paint, but sure is quick

But it’s an oil (clean oil) leak not fuel

Left blade tip looks bent forward which meant is was running when it hit

Had a Continental 0-300 that sounded like that... was an impulse coupler on one of the mags that wouldn’t release after start up, but I don’t think you have an impulse coupler. Sounds to “Clanky” to me, valves usually are more of a ticking sound

Seem like there was one on Barnstormers

Safety wire will saw right through the baffling, make sure where it goes through there is generally a steel washer it “pulls “ against so it can’t cut the aluminum

I was missing one as well, A&P didn’t even stutter when he told me to just make one. I ended up making 2. The existing one was worn badly and wouldn’t have lasted long. When installing make sure they don’t contact the oil return tubes

YouTube videos are not viewable...... no permission from owner

Congrats

its been 5 or 6 years but a buddy had a flooded Gill go south 11 months after installation, I called Gill for him and had a new battery by the end of the week, it wasn't painful at all

I was taught Forward Slips are for loosing altitude while not gaining much airspeed and Side Slips are for keeping ground track and aircraft alignment while landing with a X-wind. There are a lot of aircraft that advise against Slips with full flaps because the tail stalls. Generally as the X-wind increases (angle and/or speed) the less flaps I use, when using a Forward Slip to loose altitude I start with full rudder deflection then aileron for track but for Side slips I start with aileron and enough rudder to keep the aircraft aligned with the runway