RLCarter

That flight was 3+ yrs ago

Has anyone heard from @gsxrpilot? I haven’t seen any activity from him in a while. Tried to send out a pm but came back saying he couldn’t receive it ?…… hopefully all is well with Paul and he’s just taking a break from MS

Original post mentioned a GMA 340….. was this in error or is it still for sale?

Both have received their items and are very happy… thanks to MooneySpace

Congrats

Aerobatic Sights….. gyros are caged during a maneuver so these give the pilot reference to the horizon

Yes it will seal it, my post wasn’t very clear, sorry about that... My point was to fill the area with epoxy not body filler or spot fillers.. honestly I would use the 2 part 5 minute that comes in syringe and do multiple applications

Is the Bondo brand epoxy or regular fiberglass resin? Easy fix with either, just don’t use any body fillers, they won’t seal the cloth. Looks like the damage is into the cloth so it needs to be re-sealed before the cloth is contaminated with oil/grease etc….

The cowl enclosures are cut/drilled to fit, I have one that had been installed on another aircraft and doesnt fit my E, yes I can glass it up and make it work, just more down time, so in a perfect world you want one that has not been installed

this is the stuff you need, put it in the fridge (not as messy when cold), don’t block the channel or weep holes

Take the cannon plug apart and check the terminals, if it was about to come apart it’s possible the terminals have been arcing and now they’re crapped up

Hey Jerry, Your in the right place to get excellent advice….. let me finish up my annual and we’ll tag team it and see if we figure it out. Should be able to help you Wednesday (all day if needed).

Not all serial numbers start with the production year.... I believe the year the FAA uses is the year the Airworthiness Certificate was issued, so if a manufacturer is building a 1968 and it’s late 67’ it becomes a 67 sane is true on the other end of year... when needing parts I always use what the manufacturer says it is... no issues so far

When you removed the flap, do you mean there is just a hole there now or has it been covered up? If there is a hole there you are getting “unfiltered air” into the engine

Thanks @carusoam, MooneySpace came through in short order. Was contacted via PM’s on both the GTX and the ELT with in 12 hours of posting. Both hangar neighbors are amazed that their items were located so quickly

Bucket list as well, friend of mine was less than 20ft from where the P51 went in a few years back….. Even with that experience he said it was awesome and wants to go back

Not sure about aircraft but on most speedo or tach cables the inner cable will only come out in one direction. I would try from the other end before anything

I have a hangar neighbor looking for a Garmin GTX-327 transponder (12v) with tray, back plate etc. another guy is looking for an Ameri King AK-450 ELT. If any of you know of anything you can let me know either on this post or pm, thanks in advance

Sad indeed

I get Phillips XC from one distributor and W100 plus from another, generally they have it in stock, can’t remember on the W100 plus but paid $108 for 2 cases of XC a few months back. I also use oil as a “filler” to get orders up to the free freight, there are several of us on the field that “pool” our orders which gets us free freight as well

It’s amazing how crapped up things can get, kinda messy but you can use one of the blowguns with a siphon hose to blindly drown it with your favorite solvent/cleaner….. Rivnuts are looking better and better

+1 for rivnuts. If you want to use an adhesive to secure tinnermans in place, thread a piece of safety wire from the outside into the hole and then up where you can get to it, slide the tinnerman onto the safety wire and apply the adhesive, next twist a loop in the wire so the tinnerman can’t slide back off, but don’t capture the nut, pull the wire from the outside and it pull the tinnerman into place, once dry pull the wire out from the inside. This works with hard/ impossible to reach places with nuts and washers, use sewing thread the same as above to hold everything in place and run the screw in, the thread gets cut fairly quick.

@M20Doc you are correct went out to the hangar and removed one of the bolts, and it is an AN5-H14A. Placed 4 new bolts in my Spruce shopping cart, a whooping $4.36, which is probably more than wrench cost that someone used prior to me

Thanks guys , I’ll educate my self on the new #’s, odd that my parts manual shows a -4 bolt and they are a -5 as shown by The illustration @M20Doc posted

I saw that…. AN6227B-29 for example….what does the B signify, original numbers don’t have the “B”?