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About TCUDustoff

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    Galveston, TX
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  • Model
    1968 M20C

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  1. @ carusoam For the TN200D, its all TSOd and certified stuff and a valid question. Since neither Brittain or Terra appear to be functional companies, its a valid question to ask since there is no longer technical support. I must assume that, since the original install was done in the 1990s when the company was solvent, that it was done legally per the filed 337. So, obviously, its possible. As far as the G5s, its two wires.... I won't get into my view of the FAA here, but lets just say its for educational purposes only. *edit* Additionally, I am objectively curious about how th
  2. So this goes back a few pages to when folks were talking about driving a AccuTrack with an Arduino, but I'm curious if I am reading this correctly and hope some of you EE guys and gals can help me.... (Bear with me here as I'm probably going to end up all over the place) The previous owner had a Terra TN200D hooked into NAV2; not sure how they did this, as the output for that unit is a single wire VOR signal with a common wire not L+/R+. I think this is called a composite output? Anyways, it did appear to work in the NAV2 input. When I removed all the old stuff, unfortunately, many of
  3. Aerodon, You got it; It's a current limitation for 14V systems. The newer version of the install manual, that I did not have, points that out. I ended up doing exactly what you and JimB suggested and used the AMP crimp splices with the correct tool. Warren, Thanks for confirming some of what I read. Since the wires are already there on the 430W harness I bought, I am going to use both RS-232 wires since I will need to use the ADSB+ interface when I upgrade the 330 to ES. I also think I am going to use the ARINC OUT from the 330ES to the 430 for TIS-A (with
  4. Thanks to everybody, BTW, for your help; I have learned a-lot and even impressed the old timer avionics guy on the field when I had him inspect what I had done this morning (he was actually there and not out fishing!). He gave me some pointers, and helped me tidy a few things up, but its passed muster so far! I was hoping, however, you guys and gals can help me with one more question; I want to make sure I hook this up to my 430W correctly to ensure future 330ES upgradability later this year. I have various versions of the 330 and 430W install manual, but none specifically mention the 3
  5. Sorry for not getting back to the group sooner; I got distracted with my 1941 Taylorcraft project I've been reading up on all the pertinent ACs I can find, including AC 21-99, but have yet to find (or missed) my latest questions; assuming you can run both (in my case) 22 AWG wires into one butt joint to connect to a larger 20 or 18AWG wire to ground / power, how do you size the joint? I haven't found clear guidance on how you size the joints for MULTIPLE wires vs the single wire range its sized for. Same thing applies to daisy chaining wire shields: the Garmin manual states how to
  6. @JimB Perfection. Makes total sense to me. I'll talk to my A&P and see what he is more comfortable with "signing off," but ensure there is enough conductor paths that meet spec in the final "decision." One last question while I have you....when you look at a Garmin manual for say Canbus, is the idea here to use a two conductor shielded wire? The guys on the field with RVs that did experimental all swear you have to use a separate wire for CAN-H and CAN-L and I'm just here like "did you even look @ the wiring diagram? Pretty sure it wants you to use a 2-conductor shielded wire...." My w
  7. @JimB I have an old revision, F from 2004, because that's all my Google-Fo could find and Garmin does not have it up on their website from what I can see. Any other tricks to find newer revisions? But yeah, your comment makes sense to me: sounds like it's more of a pin limitation due to the current needed @ 14V. So another dumb question; from my reading, the Garmin High Density D-sub pins can support 22-24 Ga wire. How would you run a larger single wire (say 18 or 20ga) to that? Run the wire then solder sleeve or butt joint two 22awg wires (with pins) onto the larger wire?
  8. So....I guess I don't do a very good job of conveying the ideas in my head. My question in a different, more concise way: is running two wires to the breaker, and to ground, what the manufacturer is trying to tell me with this drawing and is that how an avionics tech would read it. Because that is my gut feeling, but when I ask the three A&Ps on the field I get all sorts of answers....
  9. Helping my A&P finish up the harness for my 330 and I had a question for you guys and gals. Looking at the wiring diagram in the manual, see snip below, my interpretation is they want you to run two separate 22AWG wires to the 5A breaker for power. Same for ground, I am guessing for redundancy? At first he wanted to splice the two pins together and use one main wire...then suggested using a 2 conductor wire. He admitted that most of the transponders he has installed, older stuff or the Stratus ESG, only call for one wire each and suggested I reach out to Garmin since avionics are not
  10. Okay...does the photo show up now? I created an imgur account and threw the image up on there. And is it all of my photos, or just the last one? Thanks!
  11. Pictures *should* be fixed? And yes, I want to get a new cable (Throttle and Mixture are newer McFarlane cables), but I can't see how to get this one OUT to measure it. See (hopefully) the pictures hah.
  12. So what appears to be the factory prop cable on my 68C is toast; I'm not comfortable with the amount of force and panel flex needed to actuate it anymore. I was working on removing the cable today so I can have a new one made (seems like only option is custom cable...can't find any for sale unless LASR has some pre-made) and got stuck right at the beginning. Is this how its supposed to look? The bolt is too long to clear without hitting the governor or the cable mounting bracket. Ignore the spilt oil at the bottom...that was my fault Only options I see are too: Cut the safe
  13. Igor, where did you add the extra circuit breakers? I was going to add a new ~35A CB where the stock Radio CB is on the Primary Bus Bar and run a new 8 or 10 GA wire to a new Avionics Bus Bar and run all the breakers off that (That is sorta what they did, minus the running power to it correctly part). Right now I need something like 10 CBs with the G5 install, so they wont fit in one row on the Avionics Stack. Thinking I might have to do it where the ADF used to be. In other news, things are going slow on the progress front with the winter weather we just had. Plus, I found that my pr
  14. So I'm 100% positive that the fish paper material was there from the factory. I might end up getting some and fabricating a flap that covers both the bus bar and the breaker "load" attachments. Thanks for the tip! And, when I was working for about an hour today before the cold got to me, I ended up removing about another 20 wires that were cut at various grounding points on the A/C. It also looks like, at some point, they used what I "THINK" was the factory lighting terminal strip (behind pilot panel) as a grounding block. *facepalm* SOOO many cut wires attached to that! It's a wond
  15. Next thing to tackle was the nastiness of the lower "switch" panel. I did some reading and found some brave souls that went to town with scotchbrite; low and behold, it appears to be working! I started with green and worked my way finer with red and grey. Still have some work to do on it, but its 80% there. Out of curiosity, however, does anybody know how this was made from the factory? Silk screen? Also, while I was removing the breakers I found the remains of what appears to be some sort of paper between the panel and the circuit breakers. I asked the younger A&P
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