gsxrpilot

This is one of the reasons I like to occasionally run a tank dry at altitude in cruise. I experience the effect of fuel starvation and get the experience of switching tanks and the restart of the engine. I'm hoping that if I had an unexpected fuel starvation situation at low altitude, the response will be instinctive and quick. I'm not suggesting everyone should do this, but just something I do and feel good about.

The cheapest solution is something like this... https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Reader-Memory-Windows-Simultaneously/dp/B01EFPX9XA/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDE1-ac_d_pm&crid=VEI72DC9KGY1&keywords=sd+card+reader+usb&pd_rd_i=B01EFPX9XA&pd_rd_r=d2d964bf-9d9e-4ea1-a80f-6ad9f2387eb9&pd_rd_w=EZ6Um&pd_rd_wg=h51OG&pf_rd_p=709d2064-e546-4799-9e66-b352ea89951f&pf_rd_r=Y9CK7BX00XKEA2AZGXMQ&psc=1&qid=1576696194&sprefix=SD+card%2Caps%2C179

Sometimes yes that works, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes add a touch of carb heat, get it lean and then remove the carb heat. Getting really lean with a carby engine is a bit of a crap shoot. But it's worth the effort. BTW mine always liked altitude as well.

I've been asked lots of time to "keep your speed up". But I've never been given a specific number. I always acknowledge and confirm that I will... but then I fly exactly the speed I want to fly. I'm pretty comfortable landing fast. I was demonstrating a landing this morning that was over the numbers at 90 knots. And typically if I'm in an environment where I'm likely to get such a request, the runway is LONG. So my SOP is to acknowledge and comply... which means I'll fly as fast as I'm comfortable flying... which very well might be exactly the speed I'm already flying. On the other topic, my understanding is that the prop starts driving the engine below 15" MP. So I avoid reducing power below 15" until I'm in the pattern. But then I have speed brakes and they allow me to cheat on the speed as well.

Are you sure it was EGT's in the yellow? I don't think EGT's have any limits or colors. But CHT's do. Regardless it's seems odd to me as well. It's been a while since I flew a C, but I don't remember seeing that condition. And I would often descend without touching the mixture. If you were only 2000 ft, then you only had 1000 ft to descend. I don't think the mixture would make any difference in just 1000 ft. Interesting...

Thanks Steve. @Bryan this would work for you, I think.

Fixed it.

I have the AV-20S in my panel as well and have never been able to get the AOA calibrated. I'd be willing to sell mine. I just don't find it very useful.

True, but buyer beware... they all most likely need an engine overhaul.

1171 hours in the last 38 years?

BTW... It's about time for me to find a friendly AME in Denver... Anyone have a recommendation? I'm tempted to jump in the Mooney and go see Dr Chuck 'Cowboy' Crinnian in Scottsdale.

Hey Steve, Any update on the AeroCruz 230 talking to an Aspen PFD? I'm ready to place an order as soon as the two of them will talk. Thanks

When I lived in the DFW area I learned that it was easy to get East/West Bravo access but not so easy to get North/South access. A route between the Cowboy - Maverick - Ranger VOR's will have you cross right over the center of the runways at DFW. And it's the one area of the Bravo that the big boys never use.

Agreed, that's probably the best way to calibrate the JPI. And that's an excellent way to know exactly when the tank will run dry... while it's on the ground. Which might or might not be the same when in flight attitude in the air. I'm sure the differences are small, and maybe I'm just being paranoid. But the only time a dry tank really matters to me is in flight. So that's the condition I want to test.

Assuming your JPI 830 has data logging, which it should, I highly recommend opening a free account at SavvyAnalysis and start uploading all your engine data there. It's a super nice log and when questions arise, it makes troubleshooting much easier.

What I've learned from six months of flying under the Denver Bravo is to never pick up my clearance on the ground. I'll file IFR, tell tower that I'll pick it up "if I need it" and depart. Once clear of the Bravo and the Mode C vail, I'll ask approach to pick up my clearance. My experience picking up a clearance on the ground has been to always get a terrible departure SID. And usually required to fly the full departure before turning on course. By departing VFR and getting the clearance later, I'm regularly cleared to climb straight through the Bravo VFR. Odd, but seems to work around here.

The guy shows up looking for a hangar. MooneySpace has recommended him for remedial taxi training with a CFI and is compiling a squawk list for the local A&P. Now that is service above and beyond.

A non-event, but now you know. And when you top that tank off, you'll know exactly how much useable fuel that wing holds.

None of the above... I use ForeFlight as it logs all my time automatically. But in the event I don't have ForeFlight with me, then I use my JPI data. Sometimes when trying to catch up the logbook on ForeFlight and verify everything, I refer to my saved data on SavvyAnalysis. All my flights are logged by the JPI and I upload the data regularly (once a month or so) to SavvyAnalysis.

Running a tank dry is a useful exercise as it's the only guaranteed way to know how much useable fuel the wing holds. And just like we all had to practice stalls at one point in our training, it wasn't because we stall a lot, but so we know what it's like if it does happen or we get close. In the same way, I like knowing what happens when the engine runs out of gas. What the indicators are and what the response is as I switch tanks. It's not for everyone, and some are certainly afraid, just like some are afraid of stalls as well. But it is a useful exercise for those of us who consider a cross country to be a flight where you stop for fuel and are still outbound.

It will fly just fine. I flew mine to Kerrville to pick up the lens and then flew back home to put it on.

I've been resisting the urge to post on this thread. As I was still waiting in the queue for the call from Aspen to get my MAX upgrade. It's been so long that I can't remember when, but I bought a refurbished MFD from Aspen and got on the upgrade waiting list for both my PFD and my refurbished MFD sitting on the shelf. I was told August, then November and now it's December. And it's a bit complicated in that I've now moved to Denver and the Avionics shop is in New Braunfels, Texas. So I stopped in last weekend to see what was going on. And in a bit of frustration I went ahead and put down the $500 on the PFD to speed things up. I'm not ready for the MFD even if it was installed. Today I got the word that the PFD MAX is in the mail and on the way. Once I get it, I'll pull my PFD and send it back in the same box. Now I'm getting excited.

I'm looking but that was a while ago. And I've changed computers since then. My spreadsheet had a column for each C or E that was available for sale at that time. I'd keep adding columns each time another one came up for sale. In the first column going down, I listed all the individual features such as: Asking price Engine hours Regularly/currently flown yes/no Autopilot/altitude hold WAAS GPS Standard 6-pack panel HSI 2nd Nav/Comm no AD prop 1 piece windshield Tank bladders or sealed tanks Engine monitor Exterior paint condition Interior condition 2 blade prop This allowed me to quickly compare asking prices of planes and the installed equipment. I figured about $20K to install an Stec30 autopilot but the difference in cost between a plane that had one and one that didn't was only $5K. So it made sense to buy one that had one already installed. Personally I wouldn't buy a C or E that didn't have at least an Stec30 autopilot and a GNS430W. They are not easy to find, and will sell quickly when they come on the market. Hopefully the TruTrak autopilot changes this calculation. But at the moment the cost of adding an autopilot and a WAAS GPS is high.

I know it can be done. I changed the gross weight in ForeFlight W&B for my 252 to see what it would look like as an Encore. I'll go back and see how I did it.

I've done it this way. It was surprising to me how little pressure it takes on the tail, to lift the nose gear. But putting a pipe through the knuckle where you normally attach a tow bar just above the tire and then jacking it up with a floor jack is super easy as well. Just don't put the jack on the same side as the wheel comes off.