Ragsf15e

Being from Canada, you probably already know this, but definitely bring some extra survival gear! I fly on “cold” days down here in Washington, but I’ve only seen -20c before my heater couldn’t keep up (I was already wearing a hat). If your engine dies and you make a beautiful landing in a field, don’t let the rescuers find your dead frozen body next to the airplane with no gear/fire/mummy bag! But being from Canada, you already knew this…

My last set was at ~800hrs and doing fine. Weird how there’s some random failures.

Getting the rigging right first is important but at the end, a very small tweak on the aileron trailing edge is very effective. On my first (very expensive) annual, a very popular (and expensive, and knowledgeable) MSC said the rigging was all messed up. They were also replacing a trim tube and some heim joints. Anyway, they used the boards and got her all squared away, then told me to go fly it and see what happens. Well, it had a pretty solid right roll (I have a video somewhere that I took to show them). The “big boss” of the shop looked at the video, took a pair of duckbill pliers and slightly tweaked the left aileron. You can’t see the bend, it’s very small. Totally straightened it out. So if you get there after the boards, it’s not the end of the world.

Thats just two sad reasons to lose an airplane, however im glad he wasn’t hurt.

Ahh, well you’re in good shape then! If you’re waiting on the boards, possibly worth a close look at the flaps to make sure they are both coming up fully and equally.

There’s a good rigging article out there too… ill see if my google skills are up to the test… found it! https://knr-inc.com/shoptalk-articles.html?view=article&id=106&catid=25

Ahh, yes. I used Jepp for a while as well and it was a little quirky even on windows. Garmin initially had a browser based system when they started providing navdata, but now they have an “app” that you download and run from windows. Ive had great results with both a G1000 and my gns430w.

Yeah the gear design isn’t great for a wow switch since it doesn’t compress nearly as much as something with a piston or spring. Well it doesn’t compress much if your donuts are good, maybe yours does ;)? The airspeed switch seems a more reliable way to keep the gear down when you’re on the ground and allow them to come up in the air.

Im surprised you guys have issues running garmin’s navdata update app? I’m using a relatively up to date windows computer and Garmin’s installed update software (not the older web browser update). It works perfectly for GNS cards.

Ahh, glad you found it! Only a couple of years in the mid 70s Use a switch there. Most models use an airspeed switch which isn’t affected by the donuts but can have its own drawbacks.

I’ve been on MS for ~10 years and have an F model with electric gear as well, but I’ve never seen that happen before! It’s definitely going to be faster once you figure it out! Im glad you found the problem, good luck!

Another reason there could be a delay in adsb traffic showing exactly the right position is it’s source. It’s often impossible to tell if you’re getting the position/velocity directly from the other aircraft or fed through the FAA system. For example, if one has UAT only and one has dual in but 1040 out, well the faa resends the 1040 posit to the UAT aircraft. There are systems with only 1040, only uat, dual in, etc. Or worse, if someone has no adsb, you still get their position, only it’s derived from the faa radar and then fed out to you. It’s hard to tell what the source is. All that being said, my adsb experience in a g1000 aircraft and my own, both with dual in/out, is that the position is usually very accurate. Certainly better to see a target with your own eyes, but I definitely include adsb in my scan, especially at longer ranges (say 10nm from the pattern, more adsb traffic scan, 5nm more outside traffic scan).

Obviously, first thing to rule out is the heater leak but it sounds like you’re doing that. If it goes back to zero in cruise without much effort, it seems most likely related to aoa/swirling/cockpit leak through the rat socks, floor, or door(s) which might only affect climb. Another leak point is the wire bundle going out the back of the luggage into the avionics bay. Mine actually pulls air in from there. What does it do on the ground? It might not be zero, but should be pretty close unless you have a tailwind or crosswind blowing exhaust up around your leak. If you’re seeing a leak on the ground as well, I might look closer at the heater and even firewall. If it’s say below 20 on the ground, high in climb, and zero in cruise, I’d focus on finding the leak. Unfortunately, our cockpits leak, so you’re looking for the leak that’s letting in CO, not all the other ones. Probably start with the two door seals and the floor? At least on mine, the door seems to let air out, not in, so that seems less likely, but that air is coming in from somewhere…

I think it might be important to get tge cowl flaps working right and in accordance with the maintenance manual. They are surprisingly effective at changing the airflow and cooling. It doesn’t sound like they are, but each model has some specific way to adjust them and im not sure about your J.

What surprises me a little is that it still gets warm lean of peak. Mine is noticeably cooler lean of peak and I tend to stay pretty close to peak, like maybe 10degrees or so. Admittedly, that’s a pretty warm oat at 7500’ compared to what I see. Are the cowl flaps properly adjusted when closed - ie are they open the correct amount?

If you go up to ~9000’, you can just leave the throttle full and play around with it to get a good feel for how it plays out. At that altitude, you can’t get more than about 65% anyway and you won’t hurt anything by going slow with the mixture as you lean and watch your egts. If you know the ff specifically for the power setting you want, pulling straight to that is great, but I like to see where peak is and watch each one peak, so that’s what I do. So just start leaning with or without lean find. Watch each cylinder peak, stop just after the last one peaks. Should be around 8.5-9gph for 65% power. Look at your chts, they’re cooler than 100rop. If you stop right at peak on the last one, that might be cool enough as well (and you’re running “peak egt”), but say you’re chts are around 380 and you want cooler, go slightly leaner. you’ll want to stay pretty close to peak because power drops off quicker on the lean side of peak. I disagree with not using lean find and just doing a big pull until you’ve played around with it a lot, got a great feeling for your engine, and know your exact lop power settings. Just play around up high enough that you’re below 65% power. Leave throttle full, lean to get lop and then to control desired cht. If you’re down lower, just pull the mixture back to 9gph or less as that’s 65% power. If i was learning, I’d go up higher so I could play around without worrying about hurting anything.

Thank you for sharing, and you’re right, very happy nobody was hurt! I also have a ‘68F model. Any idea when the gear rigging was last checked? It should be at each annual, but did it actually happen? And if yes, did the mechanic have the required mooney rigging tool? I’m just curious. It might be up earlier, but was it jbar or electric gear? The’68 was built as jbar but some like mine were modified at the factory with electric.

It’s interesting that there’s quite a wide variation in seemingly similar power settings at the same altitude.

Interesting that they are different, but here’s the one for an F on their website. Honestly, I think I paid close to that for my throttle cable 5 years ago.

What was your ff at that setting? thanks, drew

You might pull the battery/avionics cover from the side of the fuselage and look down at the static tubing. Should be able to tell if there’s water.

Both Bruces and Macs are popular here. I have had a bruces for 10 years and it’s still serviceable. Either will probably be fine.

It seems some military aircraft do have adsb out, but when I got out (admittedly ~9 years ago) there were whole fleets of aircraft with no clear path to get it. It’s not so simple as a quick transponder upgrade in a very complicated, integrated system designed in the 80s. I think some of them you’re getting on the ADS-R (rebroadcast) traffic that atc radar is seeing. Not sure why you didn’t get that from the B2… maybe ATC can’t see it either!

We probably don’t have anyone with a Dynon AP installed yet. Possibly try Beechtalk or similar for an airframe that has had the Dynon approved for a while? They are likely going to have airplanes with the Dynon and similar ones with the gfc500?

Your likely going to find that reworking your baffling is going to help a lot more than a cowl closure.