Ragsf15e

You will need a G5, GI-275, or G3x to actually control/display your gfc500 autopilot. It doesn’t “interface” with Aspen, although you might possibly be able to use the heading bug. The autopilot indications such as mode, altitude selection, etc will all not be on the aspen, but on your garmin pfd. I hear that you liked the Aspen, but the garmin g3x is actually meant to work with the gfc500 and is a better choice if you want that autopilot. Additionally, you will need a Garmin dealer to order the gfc500 for you, but maybe you can work out a deal where you help with the installation? Make sure you get the certified version of all these because they come in experimental versions as well but those aren’t airworthy for your certified aircraft. Good luck.

Ha! I’ve seen a higher (and unexpected) Meridian annual too, and I was very thankful I was only crew, not owner!

Meridian is that way too.

Try this. I think they changed websites/distribution channels, but I bought one a year ago and they were still good. take the time to see exactly which mag feeds which top/bottom on each cylinder because there’s apparently a couple ways to do that and it won’t fit if you’re try to run to the wrong plug. https://www.maggieignitionsystems.com/about-3

Good lesson for sure. I feel like after we’ve had our plane for a while, I’ve had mine for ten years, we get a little complacent in thinking it has always worked, so it will always work. Sometimes I think I know it too well, and might suppose that something is minor or the airplane will still get me where I need to go when I should be looking deeper.

You did good by calling them. D max is pretty well-known and has helped out lots of people. I have had a similar experience and talked to Don myself for 10 or 15 minutes and he was just trying to help me out. No expectation of anything else. I guess what I’m saying is you won’t find that everywhere. It’s still fun having an airplane, just be ready to be involved in the maintenance.

Good to see you again! I like your stuff.

Im not trying to make excuses for them, but finding good maintenance for your new airplane is going to be one of the most difficult parts. Likely you’ll need to be deeply involved with it yourself. The best outcomes seem to be from owners who find the problem, help troubleshoot, find the parts and at least help with installation. Again, I don’t think it has to be this way or should be this way, but currently it seems to work out like this. It’s still a good ride…

My seat was broken like that when I got my plane. Had a mechanic carefully remove the upholstery and weld in a support to hold it back together as @N201MKTurbo suggested. I think the seats were built pretty light. It was a pretty cheap fix. The cam issues others mentioned usually result in the seat leaning back on both sides (just reclining) but doesn’t sound like what you described?

I fly my f in a little colder temps and it’s better than you describe, but around-15c, I’m wearing a jacket and hat. Id check your butterfly mixing valve first. Sealing up leaks in the baggage area (door and far back corner to battery) help the back seat. You can also remove the carpet and seal up leaks in the floor.

Hopefully that works… myself, I spent $$ on a new alternator and vr and my problem (low voltage ~13.4v in cruise) persisted until I got a digital voltage meter and troubleshot it myself. You will find that many GA mechanics are not electrical system experts.

Ahh you’re right! I forgot you can get continental cylinders for the lyc. You’re about the only one that’s been brave enough to try them but they’ve been fine, right?

Only lycoming new or a shop might have oh cylinders available. Or maybe oh yours. Nobody else makes them for the angle valves…

Personally I might just keep the Sentry. Here’s why… yes, it’s probably overkill, but it’s got an internal battery, separate from the ship’s electrical system, and it provides ahrs for the ipad without needing anything from the airplane. Also it’s tiny. That being said, I haven’t bought one as a backup yet and my ipad connects to the gtx345 for ADSB and ahrs, but if you want belt and suspenders, consider keeping it. The gtx345 ahrs doesn’t seem quite as solid as their pfds. Personally, my ipad running ff has been 100% glitch free. I’m usually not in a hot environment, but I left it in the sun once, overheated, pulled up my phone backup while the ipad cooled and all was fine. My personal experience is that with a g1000,adsb, and an ipad, an aera is overkill, but clearly a lot of people like them, so there you go.

Sounds like you already bought an ipad, but it’s good to get one with internal gps. If the model is cellular capable, then it has gps (you don’t need to have a cellular contract or connection for the gps to work).

I also use the govt plates and garmin navdata. It’s fine. I use it in canada as well. Ff on an ipad is also fine as a portable. As a bonus, put ff on your phone to have a backup and to use for filing, checking weather, etc.

13.2v steady on a 14v system is not right. Check that with a good voltmeter, but that’s a solid indication of your problem which could be a corroded connection or an issue with your alternator… need to follow the voltage from the alternator to the bus.

I also wouldn’t throw a new battery and vr at it yet. If you’re seeing 13.2 as a “normal” voltage, that’s not good. Yes, definitely check it at the cig lighter and see if 13.2 is no kidding legit. Either way, it’s time for a digital voltmeter and some relatively easy ee… with someone holding the brakes and the engine running, (using alligator clips to keep away from the deadly fan), test voltage at the alternator. It should be 14.0 plus/minus 0.1. Then check it say before and after that filter you found. Then check it at your bus bar. Find wherever you’re dropping from 14v to 13.2 and fix that connection. If the alternator is really putting out 13.2, then that might identify a different problem…

Now Don, I love my garmin stuff too, but they have been “working” on the oscillation issue some people have for more than a year. Every company is going to have growing pains with 50 year old, handmade airplanes.

I also think you’re not supposed to use OPP if the approved part is “available”. I wonder if the 6-12 months wait is considered available?

Most people like Concorde, yes, but some are trying the newer Gills and I haven’t heard anything negative.

7-8 years? Im electrically challenged as well, but batteries have been lasting around 4-5 years and gills don’t have a good reputation either (thr newer ones might be ok). Many people use concorde rg-35agx but even on them 7 years is long ish. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/rg_35axc.php

Depending on the year/model, they are on the copilot side inside or outside the firewall. It’s tough to see but follow the field wire back from the alternator. It’s likely high up inside the firewall if you can’t find it. If it’s working currently, can you get it home and deal with it there?

And if you need to spend any time under there, taking out the pax seat is really beneficial. Two stops on the inside rail come off. Then the seat slides forward to get the forward rollers off, then back and poof, it’s out… I could have the forward/backward opposite though. I always look that up. Anyway, that helps lay under the dash much better.

The Meridian I fly for work (turbine, so fits with your description) has both a zero fuel and a max landing weight. They are pretty hard to come up against since there’s not much room for fuel left at max zero fuel, but once or twice I’ve had to consider them. I really like having ff for that!