Ragsf15e

Yeah, absolutely nothing wrong with that. My cylinders would be at similar temps there. Your monitor is probably correct there. Increase mixture to ~11gph for ~100 rich of peak and i bet you see all the chts climb to ~330+. You’ll likely gain 5kts, but your original setting is more efficient and cooler. It’s where I fly.

I believe you, but I’m wondering how the pucks affect the gear retracting? Did you have a squat switch that wouldn’t compress to allow retraction to happen? Other than the squat switch I can’t figure out how the pucks can do that?

Ha! Yeah, first annual you need to replace all the tinnermans and all the screws. It’s cheap and it makes removing and replacing the panels much easier. All the sizes are shown in the parts manual. B type screws. The washers are nylon to protect your paint, mine doesn’t have them. Aircraft spruce has the screws, tinnermans and washers. Get some of the machine screws for the aft panels too and the ones for wing inspection panels. Seriously, it makes annual much better.

I know this is blasphemous, but I do everything like @MikeOH, but I don’t do the bmp. I use the lean find function and slowly decrease the mixture so I can get it just barely lean of peak on the last cylinder and see where each one peaks. There’s enough variation in the setting based on exact cruise altitude, temperature, altimeter setting, etc, that I kind of like to see it. At the 8-10,000’ (with an na engine) mike mentioned, you are low enough power that you aren’t going to hurt anything leaning slowly, and power drops off rapidly if 9 gph happens to be farther lean of peak than you intended. The bmp is for higher power settings (low alt or a turbo) so that you don’t dwell in the “red box” at high power.

The indicator slides back maybe an inch. Just barely out of view when the gear is up, and the light goes off. If you hand crank the gear down or watch the indicator as you select gear down, you’ll see it moving slowly up to the line and the light turns on. You should have an additional green light on your panel. It’s common for that floor light not to work as the bottom of the socket is in a rough place in the belly area and the wires can get corroded or broken. Easy fix though if it’s not. You can still see the indicator line up with the line on the top piece of plexi to indicate gear down even if the light doesn’t work.

Welcome! there’s several threads on this, but some years appear different… mine doesn’t have nutplates to take that apart from above so i went in from below, but mine is a 68F. Its the belly panel directly below, but yeah it’s a lot of screws. Be sure to get the light you like. Some use a 24v light in a 14v plane to make it dim. There are also some led options. The indicator attaches on the gear rod which is easy to see from below, so make sure you get it back on and connected just right. Good luck! i went with a 14v led in a 14v plane and its bright. Maybe too bright if you fly a lot at night but it’s great in the day!

One thing to keep in mind about battery capacity… it will decrease over time. They are supposed to be checked at annual and the standard is 80%, so you should hopefully get 80% of capacity as a minimum. As far as draw? Depends a lot on your equipment, glass vs old stuff? Led vs old lights? Radios draw a lot. Theoretically, you should get at least a half hour (although I don’t have the reference for that so could be off). You can shut off stuff (radios) to get more. Also, your amp meter is normally wired to show the charge/discharge flow to/from the battery, not the total power load on the system. So you pretty much have to run everything with the engine off and look at the amp meter (drawing power from the battery) to see what your total load might be. With the alternator running, you will only see the charge current to the battery which could be high with a discharged battery or low with a fully charged battery. I usually see ~3amps in cruise. Maybe 10amps right after engine start.

Merry Christmas! we took a short family flight to go look at the ski areas and see how the snow looks for some skiing on Wednesday!

Seems like one more reason to prefer a j bar. Along with no Ad on the 40/1 gears, no airspeed switch and no impossible to find emergency crank cable. How hard is it to convert one back? Mine was built with a j bar, modified at the factory after.

Try this to get you started… https://www.donmaxwell.com/cabin-door-handle-upgrade

Is it the interior one? I’m thinking there’s an SB or modification to that handle that was published a long time ago. The document might have a diagram with specs. Probably worth searching through the older Mooney docs. Is it not identified in the parts manual?

I have the dukes as well… is it really one failed electrical switch away from bending the rods like that? There’s no mechanical stop that would prevent damage or pop the circuit breaker? Seems like more would end up bent?

How do you know so much about those fingerprints??

Yeah, it definitely does… I wonder if it has the correct cooling capacity for a Mooney? Weird that it’s the wrong cooler? Good catch.

You have a different engine though. Do you know where the sensor is?

Does it go down soon after the chts also drop? It’s sort of a chicken or egg thing, but my oil temp has only been warm with higher chts and it cools down quickly when I cool them.

Ahhh @PT20J has a great point there. Where’s the oil temp sensor for the 830? In the front? Higher temperatures might be normal. Is the primary factory gage solid in the green?

Yeah my oil temp sits around 185, so 200s seems high. Here are some thoughts.., I have seen it 210ish before during climb on a really hot day (like 100f + oat) when my chts were also 390ish. You could have an oil cooler issue. Any idea when it was last cleaned out or overhauled? Could also be a vernatherm issue which isn’t too hard to check (although I haven’t done it). Do you have the metal “heat shield” over top the oil cooler? How are the air vanes on the cooler looking?

I don’t see much change in oil temp either, but the cowl flaps are more for the cylinders. They let more air across and down (at least that’s the theory). Cooler cylinders does slightly cooler oil. Generally you’ll only need cowl flaps open in climb where you’re running high power at lower speeds and your cylinders will have a tendency to get too hot without extra air. People usually use 380-400 as the highest cylinder temps they accept in climb or cruise. If you’re able to keep your cylinder temps below this, you’re in good shape. Do you have temp monitoring on all 4 cylinders?

A gns430w to gtn650 swap in the future is not minor. Honestly, it’s enough that you probably should consider doing it while you have it opened up and save time/hassle if not money.

Just for fun, maybe make sure the belt is tight too…

Yeah I guess it’s in the J manual and optional, but the note exists…

Also, the “closed” position is supposed to be slightly open 1/4”? 1/2”? See the MM.

True, but the jet fuel weighs a little more, so if we use 9gph for 100ll at 6lbs/gallon and 7.3gph for jet at 6.7lbs/gallon we’re pretty much burning between 49-54 lbs/hour. Even though you can make up a little of that 90lb ul loss, I don’t think you’ll make up much. I would love to have the benefit of the turbo though!

I looked at their stc list and it’s only E-k model Mooney and only 12v. No other Mooneys on their planned STC list for the next 2 years either.