Ragsf15e

Personally, I think I’d talk to a few engine shops about the leak and the procedure @N201MKTurbo recommended and then pick a shop to fly it to do that. Probably not even remove it from the airplane. I had a little seepage at tge same spot after cylinder replacement but my mechanic told me to relax and it does seem to have stopped which is why I asked, but your cylinder work was a long time ago.

Has the case been split previously? Have the cylinders been replaced recently?

Also, once the front is off (above) the rail, you must keep the seat very straight and not lift up the front as you slide it back. If it’s not straight or tilts back, the rear part (which is still attached to the rail) binds against the rail.

Tilt seat back forward, compress bottom against the back seat hard. Fwiw I had mine out day before yesterday. I slid it forward first, pushed hard forward and popped the front off the rail. Keep it very straight. Slide it straight back, tilt the seat forward and push back until the back pops off. When done just right it comes off real easy.

That moon is awesome! And yes, the best time for night flying!

I was teaching T-6s from 2012-2015. No more travel to Ciudad Acquna allowed…

I taught pilot training at Laughlin afb in Del Rio. Our students violated Mexican airspace on a daily basis and we were the only ones that seemed to care. One time I flew my Mooney from del rio to El Paso and I was cleared direct El Paso from a place where the route would take me well into Mexico across the curve of the rio grande… I asked to stay in the US and was told “cleared as requested, let me know when you’re going direct” so I guess there wasn’t much traffic out there since I was just on my own to navigate.

I replaced the gasket on the gascolator (seal kit from lasar) last year. It wasn’t hard, but the torque is really low (14 in lbs maybe?) or you can hurt the irreplaceable gascolator. We did it, turned on the fuel while my IA was under watching for leaks. I heard him yell and saw a 250lb, 6’4” man roll out from under surprisingly quickly. It was pouring out fuel. I turned it back off. We took the collator back apart and everything looked good. We actually disconnected the in/out fuel lines from the collator so we could hold the bottom half perfectly level to the upper half while slowly tightening, then reconnected the lines. The gasket is real sensitive to proper seating. No leaks.

You guys talking the pull drain or the actual gascolator where the bottom half has a gasket and is connected to the upper half? If the gascolator, it needs very light torque iaw the manual, but it also needs to be kept very even/level as it’s torqued or it will leak with a new seal.

Installed the ones from Lasar today. Super easy swap and it rolls much better!

It’s happened to us all. Glad your airplane seems to be running better. I hope you can find a good shop, that’s always a bit tougher than you might think.

Supposedly it’s located in the cabin (right above copilot knees) and they have cabin preheat because it doesn’t like being cold…

Was it an fbo tow incident?

To add to this for future use, I put garmin pilot on my ipad (no subscription) and connected to the gtx-345r. Under the devices tab you can then control many of the functions that are on a panel mounted gtx-345 such as clearing BT clients, selecting which BT clients automatically connect, changing the transponder’s BT ID (I suggest “Maverick”), and adjusting the ahrs. I didn’t find a way to ident, go stby or set the squawk other than the g1000 interface. Cycling power requires pulling the circuit breaker.

No problem! The price was certainly right and I didn’t mind checking them out! Good info on the bushings.

For future MSers, buy the Lasar ones if possible. The Grainger ones mentioned above would need a bushing as the hole is definitely too big to fit properly. Otherwise, their dimensions are good. Paying to get delrin machined was expensive too unless you can do it yourself. Picture below of the Lasar roller and Grainger center hole difference.

I tend to agree with you. Maintenance is funny on these things. Sometimes you break two more things trying to fix one. Maybe even one that wasn’t broken….

Just to expound on that, there was an AD some Dukes electrical fuel pumps that had plastic vanes which could come apart. A filter was inserted right after the pump to catch pieces. Im not saying your fuel pump came apart, but if there’s an inline filter after your electric boost pump, it’s another place to look. You have to remove the belly panel immediately behind the pilot side cowl flap (concave panel shape).

Could he also have the “secret” fuel screen after a Dukes fuel pump or did the Js never have those? Might be another place to look for junk in the fuel system.

I likely need one as well. We don’t have it all the way apart yet to see, but the 2 halves of the starter are loose and rubbing each other. My pkane is in annual and my mechanic is dropping the lower cowl today to get a better look. Looking at skytec website, it doesn’t seem that there’s even an option for rebuilding them now. Only exchange for new at very high prices… maybe someone knows where they can be rebuilt?

I worked for a Marine Lt Col once and he’d go running, hiking, climbing in any weather. He always said “no bad weather, only bad gear.” I thought it was a marine thing but now I know where they got it!

Avgas has a much longer lag time than autofuel since it’s made in batches and used over time. The FBOs paid for the expensive batch we’re using and so charge for it. We should see some relief over the next month or two if prices stay low.

That’s actually a good point too… no real way to turn off or “recycle” the transponder if you needed to other than the cb. The documentation is a little lacking on these things…

Hello, does anyone use a GTX – 345R adsb transponder in a G1000 model? if so, is there any way to control the transporter other than the code, standby, vfr? How about things like the Bluetooth connections? Maybe clearing out the old BT connections? Or any other control of the transponder? The G1000 seems limited in its ability to control the transponder and since it’s remote, there’s no other way to push buttons on the actual transponder. Can you control actual transponder functions through Garmin pilot?

In its place you could install a different tc or a different adi. There aren’t super cheap options, but some kind of electric adi (battery backup would be great) like an rc allen, gi275, etc would work. Im not sure about an av30 or g5 but they may also be options.