Andy95W

No offense, but I've always disagreed with this method, especially with the instrument rating, as it turns the written into a rote memorization exercise instead of an actual learning experience. I've had much better results by addressing both simultaneously in the first 10-15 hours of instruction because the two will complement each other and the student can ask questions more readily while studying for the written. If you were teaching someone to overhaul an engine, would you tell them to read a bunch of books and boring FARs before you let them touch a wrench? No, you'd start with engine disassembly and then guide their home study efforts. I do admit the problem with my method is that it is difficult to keep the student from procrastinating about the written until the last minute. For a disciplined student, however, it is more efficient in terms if time and effort.

For me, I have no idea if shock cooling is a 'thing' or not. But for me it's like recycling. Does it help the environment? Who knows. But since it doesn't hurt the environment, I do it.

I'm with Jerry. After 10 years in the US Army, I don't camp out anymore. And in my line of work, we didn't use tents. You slept in a foxhole or wherever you could find a spot without critters or poison ivy. Nowadays I like hot showers, cold air conditioning, and cable tv when I fall asleep.

"Tower, can you get this douche bag away from me?"

If a 182 fits your mission, and you have $75k to spend, I'd buy the nicest 182 you can for that money.

That sounds more like an antenna problem to me.

I don't remember the article, but I can give some information about the subject. My current 1964 Mooney has/had 1" thick closed cell foam installed everywhere, including the firewall. It made absolutely no difference in sound proofing. I've been removing it as necessary when I do work on the airplane. In some places I replace it with 1/2", just so it matches. Again, no difference.

@Alan Fox- how much for pilot/copilot seats from 1964 or later?

Well, as promised, I went flying today and took some pictures of my engine monitor to show how effective it is to retard the throttle a touch and add a bit if carb heat. What isn't so effective is taking a digital picture of a digital engine monitor. But trust me, it really works!

All of our airplanes were certified under CAR 3, so the current Part 23 burn standards aren't necessary. As we've discussed here in the past, these are the applicable requirements per the FAA:

@Stephen- if you buy at OSH, go early- oftentimes Phil sells out by Wednesday/Thursday.

http://www.airtexinteriors.com/ When all is said and done, you really can't beat Airtex for price and quality. By the time you buy fabric and give it to someone to sew your seats, you may as well just buy the Airtex and be done with it. I've used all 3 methods: my first Mooney (1967 M20C N2997L, BTW) I had a local mom-and-pop place do; the second, an Aztec, I bought beautiful materials, gave them to a custom shop, and got a custom interior; the third, my current Mooney, I installed an Airtex interior just one year ago. Unless it's a really expensive, really high end airplane, my next interior will also be an Airtex. And if you order it at OSH, you get a 5% discount (one more reason to attend in person).

Yup, I've got about 6,000 thousand hours in 'em. I never said anything about the pilot call out of "TOGA", I said the airplane tells the pilot to "retard, retard, retard" the thrust levers when you're in the flare during landing.

The Airbus tells you to "Retard, retard, retard" the thrust levers in the flare, since the autothrottles won't automatically go to idle and disengage. When I'm flying, I think it may be calling me one.

I'm currently looking for some seats for a friend. eBay has a few for $300-500. I am positive your shop can repair yours for far less than that, since they just have to be structurally sound and not pretty. Pretty takes time and extra money.

A while back someone here posted an interesting perspective about ANR, that I personally don't have the expertise to refute or confirm. To work properly, ANR puts a sound wave exactly opposite the ambient sound wave into the ear cups. So in other words, to reduce sound it has to pump in more sound. Personally, I'll keep my Halo headsets with the custom ear molds I got at OSH at the same booth as Paul.

Is there a copy of the paper around somewhere? Would love to read it.

It sure seems like the best option is a factory IO-360 A3B6 with roller tappets and a PowerFlow exhaust. IIRC, this was echoed in a MAPA Log article a few years back when the IO-390 first came out. The cost savings kick in every time you need cylinder work done.

My first Mooney had the LASAR panel and an STEC30. It fit perfectly in the turn coordinator hole. One difference, however, is your Bendix-King HSI, which is pretty huge.

Skip, there's another thread about this same subject. Permatex #3 works extremely well, and is what Don Maxwell recommends. It has worked well even on my wing walk area. It's not rocket science, it's just smearing on some goopy shit. Pull the screw, put a big dab on the threads and base of the screw, reinstall. One tube will probably reseal a thousand screws.

Since you're probably looking at an overhauled engine sooner, rather than later, I'd use the Barry mounts and save some money. Then, when you pull the engine, use Lord mounts for the overhauled engine.

Art- which autopilot do you have? I'd rather not mount mine in the right wing. I like your solution.

I'm going to second Michael's suggestion and suggest some island hopping. Mackinac Island for a night (stay at the Grand Hotel if Byron doesn't mind packing a coat and tie) then South Bass Island (also known as Put-in-Bay) for caverns, dinner, and beer drinking, then home. Easy, affordable, and nice relaxing change after the hustle and bustle of OSH.

I've done that, too- twice! Worst way to waste $40 in 100LL that I can think of! (I swear I thought a guy named Scott around here did the same thing. Maybe a different guy.)

@Blunozr16- what year is your M20C? I can vouch that from 1964 on, the nose gear truss did not include that piece. I'm currently helping a guy with a mid-1962 that does not have that either. (just a note- you can include year and model information with your avatar so it'll be easier for us to help in the future.)