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flybyst3 joined the community
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Rocket W&B: Help! Family of three or two possible?
Ragsf15e replied to Trogdor's topic in M20K Owners
Besides total weight, if the weight sheet shows the weight of each wheel when the measured it, you can follow the procedure carefully in the mm and get a close estimate of cg. You need tge measurements between axles to get exact but you can get real close. -
Rocket W&B: Help! Family of three or two possible?
LANCECASPER replied to Trogdor's topic in M20K Owners
Huge variances among Rockets. Most Rockets started out as Mooney 231s (1979-1985), many fewer started out as 252s (1986-1990) and 2 or 3 started out as Encores (1997-1998). -
NickM20F started following Engine buzzy at low MP but only in flight.
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FLYFST started following Passenger Bodily Injury Sublimit
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Agree completely. Most Cessna’s, especially the twins, the flaps are speed brakes. But we are talking about Mooneys. They are a little different.
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Engine buzzy at low MP but only in flight.
Shadrach posted a topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
I am not sure when this started. Perhaps I have just become more sensitive because I am flying multiple aircraft types and engines. I feel a harmonic through the airframe when at low MP in the pattern. (prop driving engine). This harmonic does not exist in any other operational regime. Engine is smooth at all RPMS and MPs except for descending power off. The non-counterbalanced, IO-360-A1A does have a restricted RPM range (1950-2350) and I have always been able to feel a slight "buzz" in that range when transitioning through the caution range. However, now it feels like the buzz doesn't completely go away after dropping below the caution range. This buzz is not present on the ground. The engine is smooth throughout the RPM range during static runup. I have given consideration to the following: Intake leak - I have not ruled this out, but there are no other indications that an intake leak is present. Ring Flutter - I have no experience with this phenomenon but have read that it can cause vibration at low power. Propeller imbalance - Seems unlikely as propeller is smooth under most operating conditions. Motor mount - A cursory inspection revealed nothing. My motor mount is powder coated in white. The finish is in great shape which should make cracks obvious. I will give it a more thorough look soon. Idle - My idle is set very low, so low in fact, that the engine will quit on the ground if I pull the throttle all the way out. All thoughts appreciated! - Today
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Retract Gear or Flaps First in a Go Around ?
Barneyw replied to donkaye, MCFI's topic in Modern Mooney Discussion
Always an interesting discussion. I've read most of the posts so may have missed some of the points made. The first point I'd like to to make is that we all should be comfortable in operating the aircraft in all configurations at the worst possible time which means a go around from a baulked landing fully configured at slow speed and at night. We should be always ready for it and know what to do if and when it happens and it will happen. While I agree with bringing the gear up first (I have a "Johnson Bar" which brings its own challenges) I disagree with the absolute statement "gear up, flaps up". I believe more correctly it should be "gear up, flap up in stages" at an appropriate speed and height. I say this for two reasons 1. you should never dump all your flaps on retraction at a critical phase of flight ie low to the ground plus slow and 2. we are talking to pilots with various experience levels so we need to be careful of what we say. For IFR approaches I fly down the slot gear down at 95 - 100KIAS and with my own personal minimas should always be able to configure further when visual. However, if i ever had to fly an approach in anger I would be prepared to land flapless and be comfortable with that. For touch and goes I raise the flaps, then lever down and pump twice = 15º and run the (electric) trim forward for 2 secs. This makes for a comfortable almost in trim aircraft. This is particularly useful for night circuits. There is no doubt that a fully configured GA is a hand full for the uninitiated and for those with manual systems can be quite demanding especially in pitch control. When I first started my IR training in the aircraft my first missed saw me flying the aircraft with one hand and the "Johnson Bar" in the other stuck in a partially retracted position unable to overcome the forces. This happened because the TOGA setting for the FD was set IMO too low which meant the aircraft accelerated rapidly. This has since been rectified. The uptake from all this is know thy aircraft and always be GA/missed minded and treat the landing, or becoming visual, as a bonus. Cheers Barney - Yesterday
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Ragsf15e started following G3X went haywire!
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Is there an additional adhrs in the ap control unit that is also compared against the g5 and gsu25 to help figure out which one is bad in a miscompare?
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M20C, 1966, very squirrely & eratic on landing roll.
Cfidave replied to Cfidave's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
That is good advice, thank you. -
LANCECASPER started following Push Button Ignition
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I did that on a Bravo I used to own. The Electroair switch is actually three separate switches, so there's sop,me flexibility in where you put it.
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^^^^^ I agree ^^^^ but having said that, IIRC, my 1965 C is the only plane I've flown where Vlo/le was higher than Vfe. For everything I flew in my previous life, flaps to approach setting prior to gear extension was the procedure IMC or VMC.
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Think the vac line does not go to the Moritz but to a pressure transducer in the pilot footwell
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DC_Brasil changed their profile photo
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I have 2 experimental planes with push buttons, and I do like it better than the key start in my Mooney but it's not much more of an inconvenience to change it.
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Mine comes from a T in the line above the oil filter and goes through the firewall. My gauge is at the top of the panel.
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Final Report on Aerocruz 100 (TT) Autopilot Install
hammdo replied to cliffy's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
^^^ This. My IA/AP sees this as minor mods and well within the scope allowed with the STC… No need to wait if you want this autopilot and have a shop to do it… Just pay what is needed for the minor alteration… -Don -
YUP!
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This was my experience with the orbital buffer. Had speed settings up to 6. Spread the polish with #2 and worked it with #5, no issue going over the rivets.
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Final Report on Aerocruz 100 (TT) Autopilot Install
cliffy replied to cliffy's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
If the IA is OK with using the "minor mod" procedure for the changes on the brackets no other "field approval" is required AFAIK. Even the included directions show how you have to "modify" the mount tray to fit around the flap cross shaft to clearance it. They also give a letter authorizing the modification of the tray IF the IA agrees to accept it for the 337 sign off after an A&P has signed it off as a Minor Modification in the log book.. Shortening the tray is just another minor modification to the tray itself IMO, just as cutting the flap shaft clearance holes are. Ask the IA that will sign off the install how he feels. Basically the 337 says something like-"Installed AeroCruze 100 A/P in NXXXX with reference to STC so and so - ground checks OK". A "Field Approval" is totally different than a "minor modification" that any A&P can sign off. -
Rather than just a straight "buffer" that only spins most car guys now use the oscillating orbital types now that have an infinite number of speeds to choose from. Even the "cheapo" one seem to work OK and not burn the paint although you can stillcut through on sharp edges if not careful.
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I may have missed it, but for anyone thinking of buffing their plane, make sure you get a buffer with a slower settings. Some of the ones you pickup have one FAST speed. That's when you really get into buffing the paint OFF the plane. I'm no expert, but had a long talk with the paint guy that touched up my wings many many years ago. ADDED: Be VERY CAREFUL when you go over the rivets as the paint will come off quickly (another tip from him). Buff the other parts of the plane then just lightly go over the rivets, or better yet, do those small sections by hand.
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As long as we don’t break anything, to each his own. I do the gear first because it has a faster speed. The gear drag slows me to the flap speed. I figure the gear is for drag and the flaps are for slow.
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considering the alternatives, maybe the swamp cooler from arctic air or B-cool is not that bad, inexpensive, pre-cools in hangar off ship battery connected to battery minder, top off ice before you pull out, topped off B-cool works for about 45 min until most of ice is melted, if you need more, use two of them, most FBOs have ice machine, stays home in winter, I use mine 3-4x per year, have TKS so permanent installation is really not an option, FL and TX may be a different story
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kortopates started following TBO of inner tubes
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I might be useful to provide information regarding the model and year of your airplane.
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Mooney-Shiner started following Unable to make maximum RPM a few hours post overhaul...
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Unable to make maximum RPM a few hours post overhaul...
Mooney-Shiner replied to Tito22's topic in Modern Mooney Discussion
Thats pretty cool. For whatever reason, My 67F POH doesn't have sea level performance table. It starts at 2500 MSL. -
Rocket W&B: Help! Family of three or two possible?
Trogdor replied to Trogdor's topic in M20K Owners
More update: I was right, the load sheet is not right - like at all. Gonna figure it out. -
Passenger sub-limits, even $200K, are why I do NOT fly with any non-family passengers except a CFI. (I'm okay with family suing me since they're in the will anyway) That measly $100K or $200K limit is going to be reached pretty easily in all but an injury free accident. THEN the plaintiff is coming after MY assets! And, while I have a decent umbrella policy, it specifically EXCLUDES GA flying! I have NOT been able to find an umbrella policy that will cover private flying.