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I was told it was a “streamlined” brick.

This is what I have for settings. I usually cruise at 30” give or take. I keep my cylinder head temp around 340 and burn around 17 gph. 190kts is pretty common up in the teens TAS. Engine has 300 hours and plane has 1150 TT

It really appears that mooney is transferring what they can to LASAR and shutting down. Now could this be to shed to existing debt? Probably. Could it be to shed China out that still owns 20%? Probably. Could they then turn LASAR into Mooney? Possibly. Frankly, as long as someone finds an actual businessman that knows aviation business to take of "mooney " stuff. But really mooney is no longer viable.

Cherokees are much worse, especially a straight-wing Arrow, that has a ton of drag when the gear is down. I flew a friend's experimental that is kind of Mooney-like but has stubbier wings and a higher wing loading. It's fairly fast but when I reduced power for descent it came down way faster than I expected, and slowed down a lot, too. The Mooney really does spoil you in some ways.

Try this instead: https://www.eaa62.org/technotes/speed.htm

Interesting I may need to see if it needs to be re-rigged. It had a gear up landing by previous owner. I was out on Sunday and saw 144 IAS which resulted in 160kt+- TAS at 6.5 and 7K. Another thought I had after looking at other Bravos on Flight Aware ground speeds are not much different than mine. I always run my engine at 70% based on G3X and it could be that TAS is being displayed inaccurately. A bug that got stuck in the pitot tube preventing from getting proper IAS? Next time I am out I will try to do a four way course to get GS and average them out.

I can nearly be certain it's going to be the barrel connector on the pilot side before it splits. Mine was corroded and causing shorts. I cleaned and recrimped some wires and fixed it.

I use that when I need to fill in an area. Afterwards, any small imperfections can be filled with Bondo glazing and spot putty. My glareshield was in pretty sad shape and I fixed it up with and then sprayed it with SEM texture and black color coat.

9/15/91 Lancaster, PA M20J: UNABLE TO RETRACT GEAR ON CLIMB. EXTENDED GEAR AND LANDED. GEAR ACTUATOR WAS JAMMED DUE TO CLUTCH SPRING FAILURE. FAA AIDS report number 19910915046159I 7/5/03 Oxford, CT M20R: WHILE ON FINAL APPROACH THE GEAR FAILED TO EXTEND. PILOT DIVERTED TO WATERBURY OXFORT AIRPORT IN CT, WHERE HE LANDED GEAR UP. INVESTIGATION REVEALED THAT THE LANDING GEAR ACTUATOR "NO BACK SPRING" HAD A BROKEN TAB WHICH CAUSED THE ACTUATOR TO MALFUNCTION. FAA AIDS report number 20030705013639I 10/30/03 Toms River, NJ M20S: LANDING GEAR WOULD NOT EXTEND. PILOT LANDED GEAR UP. THE AIRCRAFT WAS JACKED AND THE GEAR TESTED IN NORMAL AND EMERGENCY SYSTEMS. GEAR WOULD NOT MOVE IN EITHER POSITION. DISASSEMBLED THE LANDING GEAR ACTUATOR. FOUND THE TABS HAD BROKEN OFF THE NO BACK CLUTCH SPRING PREVENTING THE GEAR FROM MOVING IN EITHER THE NORMAL OR EMERGENCY POSITION. FAA AIDS report number 20031030030799I 6/12/22 Charleston, SC M20J. This was classified as an accident and investigated by the NTSB because of substantial damage to the structure during the gear up landing. The failed spring had been replaced nearly 5 years and 427 hours earlier. Probable cause: THE FAILURE OF THE TORSION SPRING (Note: This was a Plessey actuator. Eaton calls the part a "no back spring" but Plessey calls it a "torsion spring") INSIDE THE DRIVE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY OF THE LANDING GEAR ACTUATOR WHICH PREVENTED NORMAL AND MANUAL EXTENSION OF THE LANDING GEAR. NTSB accident report number ERA22LA319

My first flight in a Cessna was after I think about 400 hours in our Mooney. We rented on in Maui and took a CFI along. I told him I'd never sat in a Cessna but to just give me speeds and power settings. Two hours later I was coming in to land and when I was where I pull power on the Mooney I pulled the power. He immediately reached over and shoved it back in as I said "sorry, I'm used to my Mooney."

I have used the same for years with no problems.

It is a CIA plot to tell you your Watergate is bugged.

Before I owned a Mooney, my roommate got those. He tried all kinds of home remedies, nothing worked. He finally went to the drug store and got the special shampoo. It worked in short order.

Things moving along! Shop found a discrepancy in the roll servo arm length, needed to be shortened on my bird. Minor modification thankfully. Ill be heading out Monday for a review and were adding a second cigarette light socked for additional power for future items i may want to power up. Excited to see the panel update for the flat pack… -Don

In a Diamond DA20 during PPL training power idle was on downwind at the numbers with first flaps...

Better yet, is replacing the 10,000 plus belly panel screws !!!! ;-)

I'm told Vinyl paint will work; I'm suspicious as well which is why I ordered a sample. I plan to give it some overlap to address shrinkage since I'm installing in FL where it's HOT!

+1 @Ragsf15e 1. Cad machine screws. If the head shows any damage, replace it. 2. Put a small smear of anti seize (use a tooth pick) on each screw before installing. It’s time consuming, but once done, you don’t have to do it every year. 3. Hand install screws. Using a ratchet screwdriver helps. Do not use a battery operated drill-driver. Even the lowest torque setting is too tight. 4. Use a new (quality) apex bit to remove the screws. Worn bits strip out Phillips head screws. You’ll spend much less time removing stuck/stripped head screws.

Actually they do pre-punch parts. Maintenance wouldn’t be possible on some things without doing so such as for example the seat rails are pre-punched. You could never drill out all the holes under the floor panel, as it is you can’t get a bucking bar on some of the rivets. But you are very right about your factory and LASAR comments. The factory is pretty much over and LASAR is so cash poor that buying the raw materials for parts is a struggle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

One other thing my mechanic and I noticed was how the stainless screws were much more likely to gall and stick in the nuts (machine screws at least). I haven’t had the same issue with cad screws. After watching my mechanic drilling out a ss screw (and cringing) and then replacing the nutplate as well, I just use the cad plated ones and throw them away as soon as I see them deteriorate or strip at all.

I'm no expert but if I remember correctly from my time with an Ocean Engineering group, stainless steel and aluminum were not great together. I think you are correct in your assessment (yet we use them anyway). Hopefully there's a materials expert on M/S that can offer an expert opinion. I think Cadmium has fallen out of favor due to its toxicity and carcinogenic characteristics. Cadmium corrosion (a white powdered dust) was a bad thing to inhale.

There are some of us who were around when this SB came out and remember the background of what actually happened. Even though it was only a couple of springs that went bad due to a bad heat treat in a batch of springs, the risk factor of the gear up landing if one was to break again (think lawyers) was high enough to make the 1000 hrs change out a reality. This would also preclude changing the SB to longer time limit today with today's litigious society. If it was an inherent problem with the design and wear factors of the spring itself we would have seen springs failing many times in the years before this SB came out. What changed? What have we done now when the springs were not available for years? We flew and didn't have spring failures. Many Mooneys would have had gear up landings because many Mooneys had more then 1000 hrs on the spring they came with before the SB. Fleet average might realistically be 1 or 2 gear operations per hour given 4000 hr airframes only 8000 operations over 40 or more years. Is there a limit to how long a god spring will last? We don't have those numbers so it seems reasonable to change the spring at some time down the road. I'm sure Al Mooney never figured his designs would be flying 60+ years after they left the factory. SB's are, after all, "optional" for Pt 91 airplanes (Australia aside :-) Your choice. Can anyone report on any Mooney gear failure due to a back up spring failure recently? Please provide the details so I can research the issue. Due to the very detailed SB requirements this is a prime place for "maintenance induced failures" if not done exactually like the SB proscribes. Being as esoteric as this particular maintenance action is it is not one to be attempted by just any A&P. Do I dare say "Johnson Bar" anyone :-)

I didn’t paint my bead trim. If you paint it before installation I don’t see how the paint withstands bending in the corners (or if it does, how it remains durable over time.). And if you paint it after it is installed then it gets “glued” into place and leaves a painting/ ridge if ever moved. I like to be able to remove it if I need to repair a panel. Another thing is that the beading will shrink due to the factors of time, heat and sunlight. Maybe you won’t keep your Mooney long enough for it to matter. Maybe the material has changed. But over 25 years of ownership, I replaced the beading once with factory material. It has always been hangared. The beading was installed perfectly with no gaps but now there is a gap and noticeable shrinkage.

ABS may be best but for the folks using epoxy, I used JB Weld Plastic Bonder (purchased from Lowes). Works great; no failures. It can be used for filling and can be easily sanded and painted. I've used it to glue steel adhesive ready nut plates to the back of the interior panels and I've used it to glue thin sheet aluminum to the back for reinforcement over damaged areas. Everything seems to stay stuck.

I have a sample coming in for paint from them. I've also stopped at a couple auto supply stores and not found anything that works. After more calls to Jeager, I was able to talk to someone. They no longer have a supply and have been working on trying to find a new supplier.