All Activity

When I was troubleshooting the A/P in our J, I replaced that switch to negative effect. When I was studying it I read that the high failure rate is caused by the fact that under trim servo load, the switch is operating near its rated current. A good way to extend the life of that switch is to never use it (except in case of emergency). If you never use it, it never disconnects under load, and doesn't damage the contacts. Not my informed opinion, just something I read that kind of makes sense. It is a minor pain to replace but not a major pain like it seems replacing the trim switch would be.

In my 231, I land with full flaps except when it is gusty above 20kts. Then, depending on wind direction, I may choose to land with takeoff flaps. Gusty crosswinds play heck with you when your slow.

I was only there once. I got conned into picking up wrecked bikes off the track. And then fixing them so they can run them some more. I was offered a free day to run my bike, but I couldn’t make it happen before they closed.

Those switches have a fairly high failure rate - if it were me, I’d replace the whole switch.

Mouser part number MB2061SS1W01-BC If you have trouble finding it in stock elsewhere.

The boost pump is listed as required equipment in the TCDS, so flying without it would be a violation of FAR 91.9. But, if you just want to ground run it, you could spray some starting fluid in the intake manifold.

Don’t call bendix king for it…..suspect they want $500 for it

On a long XC (a bit over 3 hours), I was happily cruising at 9000 msl and life was good. Suddenly there was a loud Bang! that scared the bejeezus out of me. While rapidly scanning everything for the source, I suddenly smelled potato chips. Two large bags were behind me, on top of my hanging clothes in the back seat, and one had blown open (the other was seriously inflated). So I had a nice in-flight snack . . .

I would rethink flying without a backup fuel pump.

My annual is scheduled for next month for my M20F. Over the weekend, my electric fuel pump quit working. How do I need to change my startup procedure until I can get it fixed?

rubber products in general have a five year shelf life, provided they are stored in a cool, dry location. Away from electric motors (which produce ozone) and away from sunlight too.

I once raised the gear only to discover my small bag of chips had fallen between the seats. The bag exploded so I had chips everywhere. And I was hungry

The bike is so much faster than the car on the straights that the car has to be significantly faster than the bike in the twisties to do that. F1 cars are as much as 20-30 seconds faster than the MotoGP bikes on the same tracks, but they make tons of downforce. AMP was an awesome track. I have hundreds of laps there in both directions, and quite a few in the half-track configurations as well. We raced there from the time that it opened, so about twenty years. Losing the PIR road course was worse, though. :'(

Do you have a picture or diagram of this lower baffle?

An intake leak significant enough to affect cruise should result in a really rough idle. Full power fuel flow of 18+ gph at sea level seems about right. IO-360-A3B6 flows that on takeoff. Before tearing into the engine, I'd check all the connections to the #3 CHT probe wiring and swap the CHT connections to another channel on the engine monitor. It might be an issue with the monitor rather than the probe.

But I got sucked into engineering and airplanes. After I discovered airplanes, cars and bikes just became a way to get to the airport.

Roughly speaking… max FF is about 2X cruise FF… if your io360 is cruising using 10gph, it’s full rich max FF will be near 20gph… same for the io550… 15 and 30 gph anyone with a Missile using 2700 rpm… can easily benefit from moving the FF towards a higher number. the ovation uses 2500 rpm and 25 gph (?) the Standing O uses 2700 rpm and enjoys 30 gph… the excess FF goes directly to cooling EGTs and CHTs excess FF to a cylinder can affect the A/F ratio too much.. causing misses and washing the oil of the cylinder walls…. we are supposed to follow official documentation for setting FF. But, sometimes the documentation is in error, or not updated… check with your mechanic on how to handle increasing FF… PP thoughts only, not a mechanic…

When we want to know why one cylinder is running hotter than the others… if we have a FF gauge, we can run a Gami spread test… if we don’t have a FF instrument.. we can run the test, but may not get enough detail… if air is leaking into a cylinder, or an injector is clogged… the Gami spread will usually point it out… lean slowly while approaching peak… if things misbehave early on… there is something wrong feeding that cylinder… probably not a cylinder issue. For that we have small cameras… pics of valves and cylinder walls are cool! PP thoughts only, not a mechanic… best regards, -a-

This is where it helps to pull out a wiring diagram for the KX165… BK used to be really good at having their manuals on line… expect the 165 to be able to do everything the 155 can… just make sure the wiring pins on the back are in the same place… the 165 can also show a VOR type display on its face. In the event you lose connection with its display… a crude display of light segments moving roughly… my 165 drives the HSI with GS… my 155 only drives a VOR display… there may be additional details of what is in the box… with the extra numbers and letters it has on its label… really fuzzy pilot memories not an electronics tech… Best regards, -a-

I remember reading the UK TEL company Innospec wanted to get out of TEL market by 2030 I am sure someone else can fill the void, the question how much they will charge? https://avweb.com/air-shows-events/at-some-point-producing-the-lead-in-leaded-avgas-can-become-too-expensive-to-be-worth-it/ TEL price contribution to 100LL is in order of 0.1€/L (it was 0.04€/L 5 years ago), even if they double the price, it is still under 5c per USG of 100LL

You have achieved 45yrs ago that which can barely be achieved with a 1.15 ratio, bravo seriously you should do this professionally.

Cool! electro mechanical actuators… if your dishwasher is leaking. It has a solenoid valve that is supposed to be NC when the washer is off… (valve closed) similar with the clothes washer… one for hot, one for cold… but, I digress… the Mooney Parts Catalog calls them Relays… shorter, easy to spell, takes a low current signal to quickly switch a high current source… it sort of relays the pilot’s intention… The pilot activates a nice labeled switch on the panel, that activates a big switch close to the device. many pilots don’t know what the panel switch is actually doing… great tech conversation… best regards, -a-

@DonMuncy do you really make some? That would be awesome! Happy to make it worth your time for two seats worth! Drew

That’s probably reasonable based on your hours as well. Glad you found it, but sorry this happened to you.

Continental Tech Support says: Given this through bolt provides clamping pressure to the main bearing they recommend IRAN and I might as well overhaul it since it's been more than 12 years.