Electronic Tachs

[rob]

This is just not true. Many of the Casio G Shocks have been to the South Pole. The Omega X-33 is one of a very small number of watches certified for space flight. Timex and casio also have digital watches on the list. Suunto also makes digital watches for extreme conditions. Energizer says their watch batteries are good down to -40C. There exist multiple display technologies, not just the cheap kitchen timers you are referring to. My Breitling uses Electroluminescent displays, for example. I have used it well below 20 degrees without incident. <br />

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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Piloto" data-cid="88490" data-time="1359496365"><p><br />

Try one of those LCD watches over your parka sleeve and let me know what they read. Anything that uses LCD display freezes at temps lower than 20F or they get dark. Russians know better check <a href='<a href='http://www.google.com/search?q=arctic+watches&hl=en&tbo=u&rlz=1C2SKPL_enUS434US479&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ei=kEEIUaWME6322AWU-IEY&sqi=2&ved=0CFgQsAQ&biw=1122&bih=604'>http://www.google.com/search?q=arctic+watches&hl=en&tbo=u&rlz=1C2SKPL_enUS434US479&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ei=kEEIUaWME6322AWU-IEY&sqi=2&ved=0CFgQsAQ&biw=1122&bih=604</a>'><a href='http://www.google.com/search?q=arctic+watches&hl=en&tbo=u&rlz=1C2SKPL_enUS434US479&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ei=kEEIUaWME6322AWU-IEY&sqi=2&ved=0CFgQsAQ&biw=1122&bih=604'>http://www.google.com/search?q=arctic+watches&hl=en&tbo=u&rlz=1C2SKPL_enUS434US479&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ei=kEEIUaWME6322AWU-IEY&sqi=2&ved=0CFgQsAQ&biw=1122&bih=604</a></a><br /><br />

<br /><br />

José</p></blockquote>

[carusoam]

I really like a watch that has a band that can properly fit over a parka sleeve.

What temperature does my ipad or iPhone begin to misbehave?

-a-

[laytonl]

I have used both the EI unit and the Horizon unit. I like the Horizon unit best. Easy install, as it picks up its signals at the mag switch in the panel, so no wiring to the mag. Lee

[danb35]

The EI is also wired to the mag switch, not directly to the mags.

[Piloto]

I really like a watch that has a band that can properly fit over a parka sleeve.

What temperature does my ipad or iPhone begin to misbehave?

-a-

STN/FSTN Temperature Ranges

The operational and storage temperature range of a super Twisted Nematic (STN) and Film compensated STN (FSTN) LCDs are set pretty much into two ranges for standard products.

STN/FSTN Standard Temperature Range

Operating Temperature: 0°C to +50°C

Storage Temperature: -10°C to +60°C

STN/FSTN Wide Temperature Range

Operating Temperature: -20°C to +70°C

Storage Temperature: -30°C to +80°C

If you keep your cellphone in your pocket is warm enough to work in very cold weather. For cockpit LCD diplays (G1000) it is recommended to preheat the cockpit before engine start so you can see inmediately engine parameters after start.

José

[Bob_Belville]

I can see your point. How does the mechanical tach work with respect to this topic? Since the mechanical one I have is what is measuring my engine time, how does it count time? I guess a bigger question is what is the correct way to measure it? I can understand the concern for devaluing the plane because of time recorded that doesn't apply towards the true usage time. But if TBO is set on actual run time regardless of rpm, is it not better to report the actual usage of the engine rather than report less time? In your example above, this means if I run my engine to 2000 hours, I could also be really running it to 2400 hours (80 in 400 equates to 400 in 2000).

 

 

I can see your point. How does the mechanical tach work with respect to this topic? Since the mechanical one I have is what is measuring my engine time, how does it count time? I guess a bigger question is what is the correct way to measure it? I can understand the concern for devaluing the plane because of time recorded that doesn't apply towards the true usage time. But if TBO is set on actual run time regardless of rpm, is it not better to report the actual usage of the engine rather than report less time? In your example above, this means if I run my engine to 2000 hours, I could also be really running it to 2400 hours (80 in 400 equates to 400 in 2000).

My EDM JPI 930 accumulates 2 times: TACH = hours since OH, and "Hobbs" = TTSN. The Tach has accumulated 10.3 hrs while the Hobbs 12.0. I suppose the Tach does not start until RPM indicates take of power. That was the way the JPI 450 worked.

[Bob_Belville]

My EDM JPI 930 accumulates 2 times: TACH = hours since OH, and "Hobbs" = TTSN. The Tach has accumulated 10.3 hrs while the Hobbs 12.0. I suppose the Tach does not start until RPM indicates take of power. That was the way the JPI 450 worked.

 

 

My EDM JPI 930 accumulates 2 times: TACH = hours since OH, and "Hobbs" = TTSN. The Tach has accumulated 10.3 hrs while the Hobbs 12.0. I suppose the Tach does not start until RPM indicates take of power. That was the way the JPI 450 worked.

Correction: My old tach was an EI  R-1. It only kep "tach" time, not hobbs. (the JPI 450 was fuel scan of course, both were replaced by the 930.

[Marauder]

PIREP: I owe you, my fine esteemed colleagues, a PIREP on my decision and final outcome of this thread. Don't you just hate it when someone starts one and disappears into the hinterlands, never to be be seen again, sort of like Amelia? Anyways, after listening to your thoughts on this, I made a decision and am here to report on the findings. Quick summary: During my avionics upgrade in December, the avionics shop noted some rust on my tachometer cable. I had them replace the cable only to find out later that their knowledge of how to properly replace a cable amounted to about the same knowledge as the Skipper on reading weather reports for his three hour tour... Once the cable was installed, the needle bounced and eventually stopped hitting 2700. In short, I got good at flying by sound of the engine. Upon picking your brains, I made the decision to go with the EI tachometer. Not only because you provided great experience and insight, but because I have owned an EI fuel totalizer for close to 20 years in this plane -- without a glitch. My IA suggested as well to clean up things, to replace the manifold gauge with an EI unit and to move my fuel totalizer over to the right side with the tach and manifold gauge form EI. This would require everything to mounted in smaller holes. He said he would rebuild the right most side of the panel including the breaker area. I think this is a good move since the breakers are located in a bunch of different areas today. This will be done at my annual. So... for the PIREP. I love the EI tach. My top end RPM is 2670, it is very stable and the lights make it easy to see if you are in the non red zones. There were some questions/concerns over how this units records stuff. So here are some of the details: I think it was Parker that talked about different RPMs and times before it would record. Bingo, we have a winner. There is a section in the manual that talks about the recorded times. It does record time over 1300 RPMs as "tach time". As well, there is a section about how the flight timer works. From the manual: Tach Time: The tach timer keeps a running total of time the engine is above 1300 RPM. The time is stored in memory for life. There are no internal batteries and bus power is not required to keep the memory alive. Flight Timer and Peak RPM: This instrument includes an automatic flight timer. When the RPM meets or exceeds 2000 RPM for 10 seconds (as would occur on takeoff), the flight timer will reset to "00.00" and start timing in one-minute increments. The peak RPM register will also be reset to "0000". The flight timer will continue to count until the RPM drops below 1200 RPM for 10 seconds (as would occur on the landing roll-out). At this point the flight time and peak RPM will be stored in memory. There are no internal batteries and bus power is not required to keep the memory alive. Your last flight time and peak RPM will always be available even if the power is turned off. Summary: I have a couple of flights with the units and am impressed with it. The analog display is very readable in direct sunlight (you have the option of not using the backlight on all the time). The flight time recording is pretty cool. If you are interested in true flight time, this works. The LED row is a nice feature. You can tell quickly if you are on the green zone and confirm almost as fast by reading the number on the digital display. In closing, I appreciate you responding to my request. And for anyone seeking more details on the EI version, ask away... thanks guys...!