Overhead Console Replacement

[Fly Boomer]

8 hours ago, Paul Thomas said:

The hardest part is finding someone locally to serge the carpet as it seems everyone does binding instead.

What is the difference?

[Matthew P]

If you know a good fiberglass guy they could use the original piece to make a reverse mold out of it and make you a fiberglass replacement.

[Slick Nick]

10 hours ago, Paul Thomas said:

@PT20J was right on the colors. None of the colors were right for what I wanted so I had a custom color made up.

I put this project aside for a few weeks as I couldn't wear a respirator while my nose was healing post surgery. Structural repair to the overhead console is done and I've started to paint some parts. It's nice to see some progress but I wonder if I went too light on the color. We'll see when the whole interior is back in. Worst case, it will all come back out and get repainted. My interior had more damage than I realized but it's all fixable, it just takes time.

How is the wemac assembly removed? The wemac seat is glued to the backside of the overhead console and I'm afraid that if I cut through it, I'll end up doing damage on the finish side of the overhead console. I'd like to avoid doing that but they need to come out so that I can paint the area properly.

The upholsterer is working his magic on the seats, I expect to have them back this week. I need to order the carpet; I got the burn certificate for it today. The hardest part is finding someone locally to serge the carpet as it seems everyone does binding instead.

I removed my wemac's to clean and repair them, two had lost their springs. It's a pain in the ass you need to cut them out of the headliner, drill out the rivets, then for reinstall rivet them back in, and use PVC cement to build back up the housing that holds them.

If you do want to just mask them, an empty paper towel tube fits perfectly over them and provides a really nice invisible border. 

[Paul Thomas]

 

2 hours ago, Fly Boomer said:

What is the difference?

Both prevent tear out, it's all in how it looks. Edging is a small band on fabric on the side while edging is thread looped on the side.

I tried to insert the photo into the post but failed but here is a link: http://www.floorsofstlouis.com/blog/get-an-edge-on-carpet-how-to-choose-the-perfect-edge-for-your-new-rug

[Paul Thomas]

4 minutes ago, Slick Nick said:

I removed my wemac's to clean and repair them, two had lost their springs. It's a pain in the ass you need to cut them out of the headliner, drill out the rivets, then for reinstall rivet them back in, and use PVC cement to build back up the housing that holds them.

If you do want to just mask them, an empty paper towel tube fits perfectly over them and provides a really nice invisible border. 

That's a great tip on the paper towel tube; masking it was going to be a PAIN! Mine are glued on with PVC cement and not all have rivets holding things in place... If a spring is supposed to be felt or seen, the spring is likely missing.

I put the texture over the center repair this morning and it's going to be painted tonight now that I don't have to go to a supply store to get pin stripe tape to a good fit over the wemac.

[Paul Thomas]

1 hour ago, Matthew P said:

If you know a good fiberglass guy they could use the original piece to make a reverse mold out of it and make you a fiberglass replacement.

An inexperience fiberglass guy (me) has been working magic. My plan was to see if I can fix them myself, if not, I was going to order from Vantage. It's actually coming out nice, but there is a learning curve. 

[Matthew P]

19 minutes ago, Paul Thomas said:

An inexperience fiberglass guy (me) has been working magic. My plan was to see if I can fix them myself, if not, I was going to order from Vantage. It's actually coming out nice, but there is a learning curve. 

Just be advised, if you are using resin and fiberglass over the plastic that it will delaminate over time

[N201MKTurbo]

52 minutes ago, Matthew P said:

Just be advised, if you are using resin and fiberglass over the plastic that it will delaminate over time

Polyester resin will delaminate. Epoxy should hold, especially if sanded a bit.

I’m repairing my headliner right now with fiberglass. My plastic was so brittle it wouldn’t support its own weight. I had about 8 pieces I needed to put back together. The first thing I did was put a single layer of 50 micron thick plane weave cloth on the back to stabilize the plastic. I’m using Total Boat 5-1 epoxy. It is a knockoff of West Marine 105 for about 1/2 the price. Then I started patching all the pieces together. Now I’m filling in all the holes for the missing pieces. It is coming along nicely. When I’m done I will cover it with fabric. 
 

I’m only doing this because a replacement is unavailable.

[Slick Nick]

2 hours ago, Paul Thomas said:

That's a great tip on the paper towel tube; masking it was going to be a PAIN! Mine are glued on with PVC cement and not all have rivets holding things in place... If a spring is supposed to be felt or seen, the spring is likely missing.

I put the texture over the center repair this morning and it's going to be painted tonight now that I don't have to go to a supply store to get pin stripe tape to a good fit over the wemac.

I meant to say spring CLIP. There are no springs inside the wemacs. 

The paper towel tube is exactly the right size to slip over, and is easy to hold while you’re spraying, then you can quickly move onto the next one. 

[Paul Thomas]

I used ABS cement as it works perfectly with our ABS plastic, doesn't require mixing like epoxy, and results in a weld. Mine had been repaired with epoxy in the past and that failed but I'm not sure it was applied or what type; it looked like a rough, quick, and dirty repair. I learned a fair amount doing these repairs and intend to write it up once I'm done.

[1980Mooney]

On 9/16/2025 at 12:29 PM, Paul Thomas said:

I used ABS cement as it works perfectly with our ABS plastic, doesn't require mixing like epoxy, and results in a weld. Mine had been repaired with epoxy in the past and that failed but I'm not sure it was applied or what type; it looked like a rough, quick, and dirty repair. I learned a fair amount doing these repairs and intend to write it up once I'm done.

Are you replacing the windlace around the door while you have everything out? It’s a tedious job.  But now is the time if it’s worn. 
 

[laytonl]

I’ve had good luck using fiberglass cloth and PVC pipe cement.  It melts the fiberglass cloth into the abs plastic.  I do this on the backside of the trim to add strength.  I then use some pvc putty to fill the larger cracks on the front side.  Sand and then paint and it looks like new.  Lee

[N201MKTurbo]

I was working on my headliner yesterday. I was heating it and then clamping it between wood blocks to press out some divots. It worked great except the epoxy I was using seemed to delaminate. On closer examination, the headliner was painted at some time. The epoxy was not delaminating, the paint was delaminating from the plastic. The epoxy was still stuck to the paint. Oh well, more sanding and more fiberglass cloth.

[Paul Thomas]

18 hours ago, 1980Mooney said:

Are you replacing the windlace around the door while you have everything out? It’s a tedious job.  But now is the time if it’s worn. 
 

I am; the windlace is done and will be picked up from the upholstery shop today. I should be back in town tomorrow and my goal is to have the overheads back in. This weekend. Lots of small screws.

[PT20J]

I'm sure Rich knows this, but if you try to straighten warped interior plastic pieces with a heat gun be aware that the temperature where the plastic gets soft enough to reshape is very near the temperature where it will get so soft that it completely loses its shape and wrinkles up. Like Lee, I find that ABS cement works well with glass cloth to repair areas that need to be flexible. I usually use two layers of cloth and have done that at every screw hole to reinforce the area. If an area does not need to be as flexible and needs more strength, I glue a piece of ABS to the back. 

[DCarlton]

ABS may be best but for the folks using epoxy, I used JB Weld Plastic Bonder (purchased from Lowes).  Works great; no failures.  It can be used for filling and can be easily sanded and painted.  I've used it to glue steel adhesive ready nut plates to the back of the interior panels and I've used it to glue thin sheet aluminum to the back for reinforcement over damaged areas.  Everything seems to stay stuck.  

[1980Mooney]

3 hours ago, DCarlton said:

ABS may be best but for the folks using epoxy, I used JB Weld Plastic Bonder (purchased from Lowes).  Works great; no failures.  It can be used for filling and can be easily sanded and painted.  I've used it to glue steel adhesive ready nut plates to the back of the interior panels and I've used it to glue thin sheet aluminum to the back for reinforcement over damaged areas.  Everything seems to stay stuck.  

I have used the same for years with no problems. 

[PT20J]

4 hours ago, DCarlton said:

ABS may be best but for the folks using epoxy, I used JB Weld Plastic Bonder (purchased from Lowes).  Works great; no failures.  It can be used for filling and can be easily sanded and painted.  I've used it to glue steel adhesive ready nut plates to the back of the interior panels and I've used it to glue thin sheet aluminum to the back for reinforcement over damaged areas.  Everything seems to stay stuck.  

I use that when I need to fill in an area. Afterwards, any small imperfections can be filled with Bondo glazing and spot putty. My glareshield was in pretty sad shape and I fixed it up with and then sprayed it with SEM texture and black color coat. 

[Paul Thomas]

I replaced the windlace in the baggage compartment area today; it was much easier than I thought (and that's without having the old one to match the cut/hole placement). I also re-installed the overhead piece in the baggage area so I got a first view at the colors and I'm very happy with the color combo. I'm glad to have gone a custom color (even if I means waiting a few weeks to get the last piece painted because the shop ran out of on ingredient).

The only downside is that it will show dirt much easier.

I'm leaving town tomorrow morning for a week so no more progress but it gives me time to order a few odds/ends I didn't expect to be issues like the window beading.

[Paul Thomas]

Time to get back at it. If the window edge trim/beading that I ordered doesn't work, this may be a source. https://www.harfington.com/collections/u-shaped-sealing-strips-c-301896?pickers=%7B%7D&cateId=301896&isFilterSoldout=1

I was ready to install the overhead console as they are painted but I realized the paint is not quite right. There is what I can best describe as shadows in it so I bought a quart of paint and will see if I can do better with a spray gun than rattle cans. Thankfully the paint shop was able get the supplies needed this morning and made me a quart.

The carpet was supposed to be here before the end of September... hopefully it gets here this week.

I have no significant out of town travel plan over the next two weeks and I'd like to get this across the finish line. It's been too long!

[1980Mooney]

2 hours ago, Paul Thomas said:

Time to get back at it. If the window edge trim/beading that I ordered doesn't work, this may be a source. https://www.harfington.com/collections/u-shaped-sealing-strips-c-301896?pickers=%7B%7D&cateId=301896&isFilterSoldout=1

I was ready to install the overhead console as they are painted but I realized the paint is not quite right. There is what I can best describe as shadows in it so I bought a quart of paint and will see if I can do better with a spray gun than rattle cans. Thankfully the paint shop was able get the supplies needed this morning and made me a quart.

The carpet was supposed to be here before the end of September... hopefully it gets here this week.

I have no significant out of town travel plan over the next two weeks and I'd like to get this across the finish line. It's been too long!

"Window trim/beading doesn't work...paint is not quite right....parts not here when promised...". and " I'd like to get this across the finish line. It's been too long!"

OK now you sound more like a normal Mooney owner working on their 40+ year old plane.   Someone on a different MS topic said that they estimate how long it will take to work on their Mooney and multiply by three (3)....

[Ragsf15e]

On 9/16/2025 at 9:58 AM, Slick Nick said:

I meant to say spring CLIP. There are no springs inside the wemacs. 

The paper towel tube is exactly the right size to slip over, and is easy to hold while you’re spraying, then you can quickly move onto the next one. 

Are you guys saying there’s no way to remove the headliner without cutting around the wemac vents?  I was contemplating removing it topaint it, but maybe it’s easier left in place?  If so, did you just carefully mask up the entire cabin and paint it in place?  That seems difficult as well…

[PT20J]

22 minutes ago, Ragsf15e said:

Are you guys saying there’s no way to remove the headliner without cutting around the wemac vents?  I was contemplating removing it topaint it, but maybe it’s easier left in place?  If so, did you just carefully mask up the entire cabin and paint it in place?  That seems difficult as well…

The wemacs are glued in, but the duct tubing that connects to them has clamps similar to hose clamps (I replaced them with regular hose clamps when I reinstalled). So you can drop the headliner down enough to release the clamps and then remove it.

[Slick Nick]

1 hour ago, Ragsf15e said:

Are you guys saying there’s no way to remove the headliner without cutting around the wemac vents?  I was contemplating removing it topaint it, but maybe it’s easier left in place?  If so, did you just carefully mask up the entire cabin and paint it in place?  That seems difficult as well…

The Wemacs are riveted into the ducts, then permanently attached to the headliner. I removed them because I had two where the clips came out and they were just loose in there. Of course, they all got a good cleaning while apart. It was such a pain in the ass I never want to have to do that again. Cut the housings open, drilled out the rivets, and the wemacs come free. Clean them, re-rivet them in, then glue the housings back to the headliner. 

I used ABS or PVC cement I can’t remember which, the yellow stuff. Works like a hot damn and the bond is as good as new. 

[Ragsf15e]

1 hour ago, PT20J said:

The wemacs are glued in, but the duct tubing that connects to them has clamps similar to hose clamps (I replaced them with regular hose clamps when I reinstalled). So you can drop the headliner down enough to release the clamps and then remove it.

 

17 minutes ago, Slick Nick said:

The Wemacs are riveted into the ducts, then permanently attached to the headliner. I removed them because I had two where the clips came out and they were just loose in there. Of course, they all got a good cleaning while apart. It was such a pain in the ass I never want to have to do that again. Cut the housings open, drilled out the rivets, and the wemacs come free. Clean them, re-rivet them in, then glue the housings back to the headliner. 

I used ABS or PVC cement I can’t remember which, the yellow stuff. Works like a hot damn and the bond is as good as new. 

Got it, thanks!  Looks like a two person job to get that down while holding it up and having enough arms left to disconnect vents and wires!