aerobat95 Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Hey guys I found these on Ebay and was wondering if: 1. Is this a good price? 2. How hard would something like this be to install on a M20F and would it require a field approval? 3. Stupid question but this is for the main gear doors correct? As always thanks. Ray http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOONEY-M20J-201-LOWER-GEAR-DOORS-/160787422713?hash=item256fad5df9&item=160787422713&pt=Motors_Aviation_Parts_Gear&vxp=mtr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triple8s Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 I have J-bar gear and asked this question of a fellow who has owned Mooney's for many years, he said: "Lower gear doors make it harder to acutuate the gear, if you have J-bar it is a question of your muscle. If you have electric gear you better have the _______ transmission." I cant remember which transmission he said. My understanding is one of the gear transmissions is weaker than the other and if the lower doors will cause more resistance then it can cause problems. Other than that, he said the gain was minimal and if you have them you better stay of the grass. (which I do anyhow) As far as the field approval I would "assume" yes, someone else may want to chime in on that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetdriven Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 i think you want 40:1 gearset for the lower gear doors. Early J's like ours has the Dukes actuator, but 40:1 gears to deal with the added load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTK Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Quote: aerobat95 Hey guys I found these on Ebay and was wondering if: 1. Is this a good price? 2. How hard would something like this be to install on a M20F and would it require a field approval? 3. Stupid question but this is for the main gear doors correct? As always thanks. Ray http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOONEY-M20J-201-LOWER-GEAR-DOORS-/160787422713?hash=item256fad5df9&item=160787422713&pt=Motors_Aviation_Parts_Gear&vxp=mtr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaV8or Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 What has been posted is pretty much what I was told by two MSCs. If you have manual gear (you don't, I know) you don't want them. If you have early electric like me, you need to have the 40:1 gears and even then, some say don't bother and risk premature wear and tear on an expensive and I guess, kinda weak actuator. I plan to revisit the subject once I get my 40:1s installed. You have to wonder, why did the guy who's selling them decide against putting them on his F? As to price, I really can't say. I also didn't realize they involved a riveted fairing piece as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KSMooniac Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 I concur with Jim. I "upgraded" my gear doors (and aft fairings) that were identical to those in the ad with the later model fiberglass doors from Mod Works. The doors were ~$900 IIRC, and I sold my old doors for $500. I re-used the mounting hardware to mount the new doors. I can't say there is a measurable speed increase, but maybe a bit of one. The installation is much sleeker, though, and I like it from that standpoint. The fiberglass will hold up much better than thin aluminum, too. The kit in the ad is overpriced by 3 times IMO since you can get a more durable solution for half of that cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N601RX Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Quote: JimR My '78 J has inner gear doors like those listed for sale on eBay. I like them and am glad that they are installed, but I'm not sure that I'd add them to an earlier model that was not so equipped from the factory. If I was going to go that route, I think that I'd modify up to the later model OEM inner gear door that, when combined with a brake caliper rotation, eliminates both the bulge and the tear drop rear fairing that is riveted onto the wing. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobat95 Posted April 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Thanks guys....going to probably skip that one for now.....still looking at the tail mods this summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KSMooniac Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 I would go with the caliper rotation by itself as Mike mentioned and spend the money on the tail mods. You can always add the composite gear doors later if you wish since they require the brake rotation as part of the mod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaV8or Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Quote: KSMooniac I would go with the caliper rotation by itself as Mike mentioned and spend the money on the tail mods. You can always add the composite gear doors later if you wish since they require the brake rotation as part of the mod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KSMooniac Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 My bad... I should've said Mooney Mart instead of Mod Works... I got them confused even though they are essentially the same shop. :-/ They're showing up on the website here: http://www.mooneymart.com/modifications/122MM.php so it might be worth a call to see if you can just purchase a set. I think they might be made-to-order but I'm not sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KSMooniac Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 dp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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