N9434V

on my 1970 C you can see the duct attached to back of alternator. The larger Scat is used to make Coffee when not being used for cabin heat.

I just had my Muffler and Risers overhauled by AWI. The turn around was quick, they received my exhaust on a Wednesday and shipped it back the following Monday. All for a price less than worst case scenario quoted. Very pleased with their service.

Sweet -- May you have many happy hours. Dennis

I found the answer to bolt size in a previous thread -- Thanks M20DOC "It should be an AN3-15 bolt, an AN310-3 nut, a pair of AN 960-10 washers and a 186-218 spring. The entire tail pipe requires this time 3. The AN stuff should be stock at any shop, the spring is the same as the ones used in Cessna twin exhaust systems. Likely easier to find on most fields than a Mooney spring. Clarence"

On my 1970 M20C -- just like Hanks, Green -- gear down, Amber -- Gear up, no lights during transit

1970 M20C During the process of removing my tail pipe I noted that the washers were absent on one of the bolts. Upon further investigation I noted that there were two different lengths of bolts. The bolt without the washer appears to be AN3-13 the other two bolts appear to be AN3-14. When checking the parts book it did not specifically list the the tail pipe bolts, however the old rib ball muffler shows AN3-15 for all the other ball type connections My questions -- 1) What is the correct bolt size? Washer placement, is one washer at the head of the bolt and then washers on both ends of the spring correct? How long is the spring? (thinking the shorter bolts used may be due to shorter springs) Thanks for sharing your knowledge Dennis

thanks, I see corks in my future :-)

Picture from Right Instrument panel on a 1970 M20. in the center of the picture just above the numbers is an open tube, it is one of two tubes that open into the right side scoop just in front of the door. One tube has a clear tubing that runs toward the rear of the radio stack the other is just open. Should something be on the other tube? Dennis

Scott, Where did you purchase your new muffler? Thanks Dennis

Years ago the shop that does my IFR Static test rerouted the the static tubing in the tail section. From the static ports they ran the line upward to the top of the tail cone and then back down and forward. Cured my water in the static line problem and cost was minimal as it was done while doing the 24 month certification.

Any opinions/preferences on leather rat socks vs the cloth rat socks?

I would like to be added Thanks

I believe it is a rectangular box under the glare shield in the vicinity of the warning lamps. You should be able to follow the wire from the green gear down lamp or the amber gear up lamp directly to the box.

My experience with Shower of Sparks. 1) if your battery is weak your Shower of Sparks (SOS) will be weak and may not provide enough spark to start 2) If you release the starter while engine is spinning this will allow the mags to do their thing and thus probable the engine will start -- The (SOS) system shorts out the mags, which is problematic with both a weak battery and the SOS not working. 3) It is my belief that if the SOS is buzzing it is working, albeit with a weak battery may not be producing sufficient spark to start. 4) If the spark plugs have too much resistance, as in old or partially fouled, they could also cause a need for more electric pulse than the SOS is providing. 5) there is a set of points within the SOS that sometimes need cleaned/filed -- SOS manual referenced above does give the point gap setting. Just a PPL so the above is not gospel but just my experience/opinions, but number 1 above causes all kinds of problems with the SOS. Good luck