Looking for a small about to tank sealer.

[warrenehc]

Hello,

I have a small leak that has gotten worse over the last year on the top of my wing. It’s near the inspection cover plate on the wing walk at the door. The spot/leak is coming from just beside that closer to the door. Under 25 gallons it doesn’t leak/seep but when I fill up to starts. I fly all cross country and not filling up is not an option. 
 

Does anyone have a small about of sealant to touch up that spot?

[McMooney]

36 minutes ago, warrenehc said:

Hello,

I have a small leak that has gotten worse over the last year on the top of my wing. It’s near the inspection cover plate on the wing walk at the door. The spot/leak is coming from just beside that closer to the door. Under 25 gallons it doesn’t leak/seep but when I fill up to starts. I fly all cross country and not filling up is not an option. 
 

Does anyone have a small about of sealant to touch up that spot?

mine does the same,  repair shop said to just ignore it.

please post when you come up with a fix

[Utah20Gflyer]

57 minutes ago, warrenehc said:

Hello,

I have a small leak that has gotten worse over the last year on the top of my wing. It’s near the inspection cover plate on the wing walk at the door. The spot/leak is coming from just beside that closer to the door. Under 25 gallons it doesn’t leak/seep but when I fill up to starts. I fly all cross country and not filling up is not an option. 
 

Does anyone have a small about of sealant to touch up that spot?

Is it coming from a screw or the seam of the inspection panel and the wing skin? 

[EricJ]

If it is leaking around a screw head (underneath the wing walk, maybe), it is an easy repair with some Permatex 3.  

If it is leaking at a seam or something, I'd +1 your previous advice to just not fill it all the way unless you're about to fly it.    I've had a leak on the outboard end of the tank like that, that I know how far I can fill it before it'll leak.   Been like that for years. 

[DCarlton]

2 hours ago, McMooney said:

mine does the same,  repair shop said to just ignore it.

please post when you come up with a fix

Same for me too.  Been that way for years.  If I fill the right tank to the top, I burn it first.  My few seeps really haven't gotten worse over the years so I leave them alone for now.  

[KSMooniac]

The sealant is a 2-part kit with a shelf life, and might even be classified as hazardous for shippers, so I'm not sure if you'll have much luck finding just a little, and getting it into your hands easily.  You didn't say where you are, but I'd suggest talking with a local shop and see if they have any on hand, possibly about to expire, that could be had on the cheap.  It won't be an easy or fun task to apply it where you think you have a leak, and you might not find the right spot to repair.  I think Maxwell might have a procedure on his website that could help.

I bought a pint kit of sealant a few weeks ago for my current mods and am fortunate to have a local distributor that sells over the counter.  It still cost me $150.

Good luck

[Yetti]

Pictures?

[FlyingDude]

 

On 6/21/2022 at 12:18 AM, KSMooniac said:

might even be classified as hazardous for shippers, so I'm not sure if you'll have much luck finding just a little, and getting it into your hands easily.

CS3204 and CS3330 are easily available at www.skygeek.com 

I don't know who told you that it's hazmat that cannot be delivered.  Well, I'm speaking for MI.  Things might be different in other states (e.g. CA).

They have multiple shipping options (fedex with various speeds and usps).  You can have small quantities in syringes or big quantities in a jar.  Now, I'm not trying to be pedantic about metric vs imperial - at least not this time: but the confection sizes are confusing.  Buy 24 oz which contains 16oz, etc. etc.  Is it fluid oz or weight oz?  So, I bought either the ~50g syringe or ~500g jar.  

I had followed a MS suggestion last year to plug a tiny hole using permatex - after of course discussing the idea with my mech.  My mech had said that he doubted it would work, but he was like "it won't hurt trying, let me know if it works."  It made a mess.  The fuel slowly lifted the permatex, spread it around and it started oozing out of access port cracks.  It was sticky to touch and wouldn't clean off easily.  Then I spent an entire day cleaning off that mess before sealing that spot from the inside - which I should have done in the first place...  

Considering today's fuel prices, you'll actually save money fixing it.  So, if I were you, I'd either 1) keep fuel level below seep height or fill over that height only right before using that fuel, 2) fix it from inside.

 

[Shadrach]

None of us like to waste money, but this may win the trophy for CB (Cheap Bastard) of the year...

Access door sealant (CS3330) is available in 2oz and 3.5oz semkits from Skygeek for $22.51 and $24.14 respectively.  If you want to fix it, just get the 3.5 oz kit and and do it correctly with fresh sealant.  Even with shipping it's going to cost under $35 to ensure you have fresh sealant in sufficient quantity to complete the job.

Acquiring the materials is the easy and inexpensive part of the job.

 

[FlyingDude]

22 minutes ago, Shadrach said:

None of us like to waste money, but this may win the trophy for CB (Cheap Bastard) of the year...

Fresh from www.skygeek.com

To me, 6 oz (3.5 fl oz) statement is pretty confusing.  But I also struggle with pound mass and pound force.  So, YMMV.  But it becomes a bit more confusing because when you mix it, it shrinks a tad.  You see that more if you buy the jar and mix it in a bowl.  Furthermore, assuming that we agreed on weights and measurements, some of it will still remain in the syringe and in the syringe's screw-on tip.

Recommendation: if you think you need 1 of the 2oz syringe, buy 2x 3.5 oz syringe.  

31 minutes ago, Shadrach said:

Acquiring the materials is the easy and inexpensive part of the job.

 

Seconded.

 

[Shadrach]

37 minutes ago, FlyingDude said:

Fresh from www.skygeek.com

To me, 6 oz (3.5 fl oz) statement is pretty confusing.  But I also struggle with pound mass and pound force.  So, YMMV.  But it becomes a bit more confusing because when you mix it, it shrinks a tad.  You see that more if you buy the jar and mix it in a bowl.  Furthermore, assuming that we agreed on weights and measurements, some of it will still remain in the syringe and in the syringe's screw-on tip.

Recommendation: if you think you need 1 of the 2oz syringe, buy 2x 3.5 oz syringe.  

Seconded.

 

One is weight (oz) and one is volume (Fluid oz).  3204 is tank sealant (adhesive), 3330 is access door sealant (non adhesive).  I would not use 3204 on access doors. The next person that removes them will bless you... They are hard enough to remove when the correct sealant is used. Cured 3330 is easy (relatively speaking) to remove from the access panels by just rubbing with your thumb. It balls up and comes away clean. Cured 3204 would be a bitch to clean off in prep for new sealant and reinstallation.

I linked the correct sealant in my previous post.

[Shadrach]

2 hours ago, FlyingDude said:

 

CS3204 and CS3330 are easily available at www.skygeek.com 

I don't know who told you that it's hazmat that cannot be delivered.  Well, I'm speaking for MI.  Things might be different in other states (e.g. CA).

They have multiple shipping options (fedex with various speeds and usps).  You can have small quantities in syringes or big quantities in a jar.  Now, I'm not trying to be pedantic about metric vs imperial - at least not this time: but the confection sizes are confusing.  Buy 24 oz which contains 16oz, etc. etc.  Is it fluid oz or weight oz?  So, I bought either the ~50g syringe or ~500g jar.  

I had followed a MS suggestion last year to plug a tiny hole using permatex - after of course discussing the idea with my mech.  My mech had said that he doubted it would work, but he was like "it won't hurt trying, let me know if it works."  It made a mess.  The fuel slowly lifted the permatex, spread it around and it started oozing out of access port cracks.  It was sticky to touch and wouldn't clean off easily.  Then I spent an entire day cleaning off that mess before sealing that spot from the inside - which I should have done in the first place...  

Considering today's fuel prices, you'll actually save money fixing it.  So, if I were you, I'd either 1) keep fuel level below seep height or fill over that height only right before using that fuel, 2) fix it from inside.

 

Permatex can work for seeping fasteners but you have to use the correct one (Orange, I think).  It needs to cure thoroughly before being exposed to fuel.  Even then, it's a bit of a crap shoot.  I've tried other sealants for weeping fastener and have decided it's not really worth the trouble. I decide to live with it or fix it properly.  The other issue with weeping fasteners is that removing the offending fastener can make the seep worse, transforming the problem from a minor nuisance to a must be addressed before further flight.

[Utah20Gflyer]

3 hours ago, Shadrach said:

Permatex can work for seeping fasteners but you have to use the correct one (Orange, I think).  It needs to cure thoroughly before being exposed to fuel.  Even then, it's a bit of a crap shoot.  I've tried other sealants for weeping fastener and have decided it's not really worth the trouble. I decide to live with it or fix it properly.  The other issue with weeping fasteners is that removing the offending fastener can make the seep worse, transforming the problem from a minor nuisance to a must be addressed before further flight.

I had several access panel screws that leaked profusely. Permatex 3 has reduced the leaking to the faintest discoloration when the tanks are full, at less than 20 dollars for the Permatex I think it's worth a try.   May not always work but the cost and effort are so low why not? 

[warrenehc]

12 hours ago, Shadrach said:

None of us like to waste money, but this may win the trophy for CB (Cheap Bastard) of the year...

Access door sealant (CS3330) is available in 2oz and 3.5oz semkits from Skygeek for $22.51 and $24.14 respectively.  If you want to fix it, just get the 3.5 oz kit and and do it correctly with fresh sealant.  Even with shipping it's going to cost under $35 to ensure you have fresh sealant in sufficient quantity to complete the job.

Acquiring the materials is the easy and inexpensive part of the job.

 

Thank you for the reminder to complete research prior to putting anything online. Knowing that tank reseal jobs are quite expensive I assumed that materials would be. After posting, I did some looking with the advise of others and was pleasantly  surprised to see the cost.
Thank you for the info for skygeek and the difference on sealants.

Edited June 23, 2022 by warrenehc

[Shadrach]

1 hour ago, warrenehc said:

Thank you for the reminder to complete research prior to putting anything online. Knowing that tank reseal jobs are quite expensive I assumed that materials would be. After posting, I did some looking with the advise of others and was presently surprised to see the cost.
Thank you for the info for skygeek and the difference on sealants.

Thank you for not taking offense at my ribbing you for being a CB. Good luck with your repair. I hope it‘s straight forward.

[FlyingDude]

13 hours ago, Shadrach said:

taking offense at my ribbing you for being a CB

Taking offense???  Here in MS, it's an honor to be a CB!!!!!

[FlyingDude]

19 hours ago, Utah20Gflyer said:

I had several access panel screws that leaked profusely. Permatex 3 has reduced the leaking to the faintest discoloration when the tanks are full, at less than 20 dollars for the Permatex I think it's worth a try. 

Oh, so by fastener you guys mean access panel screws... I thought you guys were meaning rivets, which require you to get into the tank to re-strike them or to replace them.  If it's only the screw, I would try to plug the screw with CS3330.  If that doesn't work, then I'd remove the access panel and re-glue it with CS3330.  

It only costs you $4 more than permatex.  I think you could afford that...

 

[Shadrach]

41 minutes ago, FlyingDude said:

Oh, so by fastener you guys mean access panel screws... I thought you guys were meaning rivets, which require you to get into the tank to re-strike them or to replace them.  If it's only the screw, I would try to plug the screw with CS3330.  If that doesn't work, then I'd remove the access panel and re-glue it with CS3330.  

It only costs you $4 more than permatex.  I think you could afford that...

 

There are caveats to using CS3330 or any sealant in a screw hole. If you use too much it will squeeze through the nut plate and compromise the plastic cover on the back side of the nut plate. I do not believe the mx manual outlines a repair for individual screws but it’s been a while since I reviewed the material.