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Posted
53 minutes ago, JayWoodring said:

Would anyone know the part number for the Ram Air Cable on a 1965 M20E?

It’s not an off the shelf part. You’ll need to have one fabricated. 

Posted

Not sure if it’s the same but I just bought one off a J guy. In the J it doesn’t do much so they take them out. Same cable as my F. Biggest issue is they get goo’d up inside and stiff. 

Posted
4 minutes ago, RobertGary1 said:

Not sure if it’s the same but I just bought one off a J guy. In the J it doesn’t do much so they take them out. Same cable as my F. Biggest issue is they get goo’d up inside and stiff. 

I think I found one out of E from a guy on barnstormers 

Posted
1 hour ago, flyingchump said:

Do you need the inner cable/wire?  The inner wire is just piano wire.  Find a piano tuner that has an A&P and your all set!

Would have to be a hell of a piano. The hammer would have to be about the size of a mason's mallet.

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Posted
On 5/26/2022 at 2:50 PM, flyingchump said:

Do you need the inner cable/wire?  The inner wire is just piano wire.  Find a piano tuner that has an A&P and your all set!

Do you know the size?  .041”?

Posted

I have one that came out of my J model when we did the ram air delete.    If I remember I'll measure it today when I'm out there.

Posted (edited)
On 5/30/2022 at 6:30 PM, Yetti said:

In the comments section of spruce, someone with a m20e posted saying the Bowden .078” is too big for the OEM sheath/casing for a flap control cable.  I’m thinking he was trying to use this for the flap indicator cable, which is definitely lighter cable than the ram air door uses.  I’ll try to get a caliper on mine later this week. 
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/stainlesssteel78.php?clickkey=4440

Edited by Browncbr1
Posted

The cable out of my J model is 60" long and the cable itself is 14 ga (~0.075").   If that's useful to anybody it's available.    

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Posted

 I guess my ram air cable is .064", which probably explains the difficulty of the movement of the knob. It is probably binding up. I guess I need to contact McFarland to order the .072" cable for Ram-Air cable?

image.jpeg.aaa8fa0aae9d585fa172824ebac21437.jpeg

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  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hi guys,

I need to replace the ram air cable, too.  My mech gave me a broken mixture control from a C172.  The inside wire will work because it's much longer than Mooney ram air cable.  Do you have any pictures about how to remove the wire from the controller knob side and to crimp the new cable in?  It's not just the knob assembly.  There is a wired switch that turns on a tiny light if your ram air is open and your gear is down; so it has a limit switch lodged in there, too.  I'd like to prep for the operation logistically and psychologically in advance...  Thanks.

 

Oh, btw, for those of you who like new stuff:

https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/media/documents/mooney_controls_catalog_eligibility.pdf

MC640257-017 is the MCFarlane pn.

 

Posted
On 6/7/2022 at 11:31 PM, ukrsindicat@yahoo.com said:

 I guess my ram air cable is .064", which probably explains the difficulty of the movement of the knob. It is probably binding up. I guess I need to contact McFarland to order the .072" cable for Ram-Air cable?

image.jpeg.aaa8fa0aae9d585fa172824ebac21437.jpeg

That looks just like mine except for yours looks a tad rusty. Mine is an easy one hand operation.

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Posted
8 minutes ago, Shadrach said:

That looks just like mine except for yours looks a tad rusty. Mine is an easy one hand operation.

thanks for the pic, but that's on the port side, beneath the prop.  I was looking for some hints on the knob side, on the instrument panel.  Based on what I read, the wire is crimped into the hollow rod on the knob side.  How do I remove that rod from the knob and the cable from that rod in the least invasive way possible and crimp the new cable in?  The installation on the port side (beneath the prop) is relatively easy.

Posted
7 minutes ago, FlyingDude said:

thanks for the pic, but that's on the port side, beneath the prop.  I was looking for some hints on the knob side, on the instrument panel.  Based on what I read, the wire is crimped into the hollow rod on the knob side.  How do I remove that rod from the knob and the cable from that rod in the least invasive way possible and crimp the new cable in?  The installation on the port side (beneath the prop) is relatively easy.

That was not my pic. I was commenting on the previous poster's pic.  I do not know how it comes apart as I have not taken mine apart.  I can guess from you partial N number when your plane was made, it's a few SNs ahead of mine. The Mcfarlane PN you posted will not work for your plane or mine as it does not have a friction lock.  The newer design ram-air doors had an over center link which did not required a friction lock like ours.

It is surprisingly tight in the control cable area. Replacing the AN bolts for my new gear down block was a bitch. I look forward to your PIREP.

Posted
12 minutes ago, Shadrach said:

it does not have a friction lock.

Thanks for your reply. I thought the friction lock was part of the knob assembly and the cable screwed into that knob assy.  Yes it's very crammed in there (but what isn't crammed in these mooneys??) so I'm so not looking forward to it. 

Posted
20 minutes ago, FlyingDude said:

Thanks for your reply. I thought the friction lock was part of the knob assembly and the cable screwed into that knob assy.  Yes it's very crammed in there (but what isn't crammed in these mooneys??) so I'm so not looking forward to it. 

It is part of the knob assembly on ours. You may be able to replace the cable only, but I can't say for sure. Hopefully someone else can.  The "later" vintage Mooneys and J models have an over center link at the door mechanism. So the cockpit control is a simple push/pull affair with no button.  I believe the button set up on ours expands a collett that grips a rigid section of shaft behind the panel.  If I had to guess, I think you will need to remove a jam nut on the back side of the cable and pull the cable into the cabin.

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