DaV8or Posted December 8, 2011 Report Posted December 8, 2011 That sucker is a PITA to get off and particularly back on. Anybody have any wonderful tips to speed the process? Do you remove all the little tiny screws at the nose end of the support rods, or the single bolt on the firewall? Do you guys need to disconnect the nose gear doors to get at the lower screws like I do? Are the real 201 cowls any easier? How about the Lo Presti? Seeing how the whole cowl seems to need to come off about twice a year, it would be nice to have it a bit easier. Mooney really didn't make these planes to be worked on. Quote
carusoam Posted December 8, 2011 Report Posted December 8, 2011 Dave, On my c, I used to remove the screws from the supports at the forward end of the lower cowel. This gave enough flexibility to reach most items. I recall changing out the interior bolts as well. I think I had the lower cowel out once or twice for starter rebuild and generator replacement. Too many things were attached to it including tight, silicone wrapped, oil lines. Best regards, -a- Quote
Hank Posted December 8, 2011 Report Posted December 8, 2011 Dave-- I'm not sure I've ever REMOVED the bottom cowl. I have taken off the top and both sides and LOWERED the bottom cowl a few times, but off hand I don't remember anything special. I'll be changing my oil this weekend and will look at [but not remove :-) ] the lower cowl attachment then. Your F may be a little more involved than my C, though, what with your more complicated engine and all. Quote
Shadrach Posted December 8, 2011 Report Posted December 8, 2011 Dave, I felt much the same way you do, but it gets easier the more you do it. It will never be what I would consider a simple job. I always diconnect the support rods at the firewall. It'd be easier if the bolts were captured, but as it stands, it's not too difficult to get a 3/16 on the back side. Disconnecting at the cowl would leave them in the way of most of the work I've ever needed to do. The biggest PITA is the intake duct...hands down. It's not hard once it's started, just tedious because there's little room for the wrench to travel. The second worst is the reversed exhaust bolt on the back side of the exhaust ball joint. I've not needed to disconnect the gear doors to remove the cowling IIRC. If you find yourself fighting to work around an exhaust or intake down-tube, just take it out, it will be easier in the long run (make sure you have "thin walled" sockets on hand). Also, lubricate all exhaust slip joints with anti-seize, it will make removal, installation and manipulation of the exhaust system much easier whether you need to remove a single piece or the whole thing. Quote
Shadrach Posted December 8, 2011 Report Posted December 8, 2011 Removal isn't nearly as bad as reassmbly. The J air intake is all phillips? Quote
Shadrach Posted December 8, 2011 Report Posted December 8, 2011 He did not directly mention the air intake, but, the air intake is in fact connected (likely just aft of the alternate air door) to the lower cowl. There is no way to remove the cowl without disconnecting the air intake. Quote
DaV8or Posted December 8, 2011 Author Report Posted December 8, 2011 Quote: JimR And I've never removed mine, so I couldn't say. Jim Quote
DaV8or Posted December 8, 2011 Author Report Posted December 8, 2011 Quote: Hank Dave-- I'm not sure I've ever REMOVED the bottom cowl. I have taken off the top and both sides and LOWERED the bottom cowl a few times, but off hand I don't remember anything special. I'll be changing my oil this weekend and will look at [but not remove :-) ] the lower cowl attachment then. Your F may be a little more involved than my C, though, what with your more complicated engine and all. Quote
Hank Posted December 8, 2011 Report Posted December 8, 2011 I don't take off the lower cowl at annual, and I'm not used to seeing it off then. It is relatively easy to disconnect behind the spinner and lower gently to the ground. Like I said, oil change coming this weekend, whenever I can find the time, and I'll look around then. It will be nice to relax a minute before hurting my knuckles safety-wiring the new filter in place. Quote
Shadrach Posted December 8, 2011 Report Posted December 8, 2011 Quote: JimR The two are not connected on the 201. And yes, Dave, I have ram air, but as soon as it requires any maintenance it will be removed pursuant to the applicable service bulletin. Jim Quote
DaV8or Posted December 8, 2011 Author Report Posted December 8, 2011 Quote: Hank I don't take off the lower cowl at annual, and I'm not used to seeing it off then. It is relatively easy to disconnect behind the spinner and lower gently to the ground. Like I said, oil change coming this weekend, whenever I can find the time, and I'll look around then. It will be nice to relax a minute before hurting my knuckles safety-wiring the new filter in place. Quote
jetdriven Posted December 8, 2011 Report Posted December 8, 2011 On a j the air filter bolts to the front baffle on the LH side. Our J has the SB done to remove the ram air. With the Donaldson filter we were showing 29.5" of manifold pressure at 1000' with an altimeter setting of 30.40. So, almost no loss. Quote
Shadrach Posted December 8, 2011 Report Posted December 8, 2011 Quote: jetdriven On a j the air filter bolts to the front baffle on the LH side. Our J has the SB done to remove the ram air. With the Donaldson filter we were showing 29.5" of manifold pressure at 1000' with an altimeter setting of 30.40. So, almost no loss. Quote
jetdriven Posted December 8, 2011 Report Posted December 8, 2011 Ram air on an early J is a 2.5" butterfly below the spinner on the front of the air box. the cowl fits over that butterfly. Alternate air is a round 4" disc spring loaded closed on the back of the airbox to the side. Quote
takair Posted December 10, 2011 Report Posted December 10, 2011 Quote: DaV8or That sucker is a PITA to get off and particularly back on. Anybody have any wonderful tips to speed the process? Do you remove all the little tiny screws at the nose end of the support rods, or the single bolt on the firewall? Do you guys need to disconnect the nose gear doors to get at the lower screws like I do? Are the real 201 cowls any easier? How about the Lo Presti? Seeing how the whole cowl seems to need to come off about twice a year, it would be nice to have it a bit easier. Mooney really didn't make these planes to be worked on. Quote
carusoam Posted December 11, 2011 Report Posted December 11, 2011 Rob, You are right, 1/4 turn fasteners on the side cowel covers make it a breeze to get on and off. Square windows and nice fasteners are the big difference in the 1965C. Dog house was still there until J, I believe. Exhaust and air intake pipes are easier to get out than removing the lower cowel. Best regards, -a- Quote
MARZ Posted December 12, 2011 Report Posted December 12, 2011 Quote: DaV8or Don't you take it off at annual? I imagine you might need to take it off to get the muffler off, not sure though. I've had mine off for both the alternator install and now the starter. It'll be coming off again whenever Mooney decides to manufacture intake boots again. Quote
MooneyMitch Posted December 12, 2011 Report Posted December 12, 2011 Another tip, just in case this was not covered in some earlier posts, access to the fuel injection boot bolts is MUCH more accessible if you remove #1 and #2 exhaust stacks. With that said, those pesky little tension spring bolts/cotter pins on the exhaust pipes are not much fun to reinstall either. Oh well, either way knees pads and patients are helpful!! ha. Quote
DaV8or Posted December 12, 2011 Author Report Posted December 12, 2011 Quote: takair Changed the generator to an alternator without it off (I will admit, it may have been easier to do that without the cowl). That said, some of this may only apply to a stock 64. Add a cowl closure and it's different. Quote
SWOOP35 Posted May 12, 2013 Report Posted May 12, 2013 Would any of you guys have a diagram or picture of the right inside of lower cowling? I have 62 M20C, and someone has removed the landing light bracket.My parts book doesn't show a very good picture of light assy.The main attach bracket is mounted to cowling,but there is nothing to attach it too. I've had the plane about six years and first time this has come up at annual. the light is tight in cowling,but new A&P AI says it has to be fixed.The reason for new A&P AI is my old one had three strokes so had to find someone else. Any help sure would be appreciated. Quote
rockydoc Posted May 13, 2013 Report Posted May 13, 2013 Wow! You guys scare me. Years ago when i started flying I read "Fly The Engine" by Kas Thomas. He brain washed me into enjoy a good thorough (even to the point of pulling the prop thru all 4 by hand and "feeling the compression on each cylinder) so that i enjoy a good thorough "decowled" engine preflight as much as I enjoy the xcountry flight planning. I just purchased my M20B and am taking delivery on June 3rd. I just can't imagine taking off in an airplane on a 2000 mile trip and not "looking under the hood" to confirm nothing is loose or leaking!!!!! Wow! i've got a lot to learn after 6000+ hours behind the yoke! I must say I feel intimidated! Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted May 13, 2013 Report Posted May 13, 2013 Just because I'm bored waiting for a delayed southwest flight (Mooney on jacks). No matter how bad the injector boot gets, it can be fixed with three ounce fiberglass cloth and black RTV. Quote
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