AlexLev Posted September 20, 2019 Report Posted September 20, 2019 The carpet on the right side got unglued and the foam backing beneath deteriorated quite a bit. I am thinking of pulling both left & right carpets and replacing them with an SCS-interior carpet. Or should I just find a carpet store and have them custom cut something vs using SCS-Interior pre-cut? As long as the carpets have burn certificates, it's fine, right? Few q's: 1) For those that have done this, what are some good supplies to use to clean up all the crap once the carpets are out? The spar is out in the back so I want to make sure I'm extra careful and clean it without promoting any corrosion. 2) Should I go with the ensolate foam backing again or will it just cause more problems down the road? Does it add extra protection? 3) Any other tips + tricks appreciated. Quote
jetdriven Posted September 20, 2019 Report Posted September 20, 2019 Use denatured alcohol, xylene or MEK to remove the glue. Then put in either new carpet or your carpet with the foam removed and install snaps in the floor. The female in the carpet. Two at the rear of each carpet strip. One each between the rude pedals. Two at the forward end of the center strip. And 4 under the front of the pass seat. 2 under the front of the pilot seat. Sailrite has The snaps and the tool Quote
RLCarter Posted September 20, 2019 Report Posted September 20, 2019 30 minutes ago, jetdriven said: Use denatured alcohol, xylene or MEK to remove the glue. Then put in either new carpet or your carpet with the foam removed and install snaps in the floor. The female in the carpet. Two at the rear of each carpet strip. One each between the rude pedals. Two at the forward end of the center strip. And 4 under the front of the pass seat. 2 under the front of the pilot seat. Sailrite has The snaps and the tool Yep, that's how I did it.... Dampen a cloth shop towel with you favorite solvent, lay it over an area you want clean (8"x8" works good) to allow it to soften up the glue.... Kinda a slow process, so plan on a 4~5 hrs depending on how old and how much glue was used Quote
Mcstealth Posted September 20, 2019 Report Posted September 20, 2019 Having a few expletives at the ready would be good. 1 Quote
RLCarter Posted September 20, 2019 Report Posted September 20, 2019 20 minutes ago, Mcstealth said: Having a few expletives at the ready would be good. Not really needed until hour 2, plenty of time to gather them 1 Quote
Oldguy Posted September 20, 2019 Report Posted September 20, 2019 15 hours ago, jetdriven said: Use denatured alcohol, xylene or MEK to remove the glue. 15 hours ago, RLCarter said: Yep, that's how I did it.... Dampen a cloth shop towel with you favorite solvent, lay it over an area you want clean (8"x8" works good) to allow it to soften up the glue.... Kinda a slow process, so plan on a 4~5 hrs depending on how old and how much glue was used Plastic scraper(s) and, it goes without saying, well fitting respirator. Also good if you can set up a fan to blow air into the plane (so no fumes go through it) while working in it. In the door and out the baggage door is what I did. 1 Quote
cliffy Posted September 21, 2019 Report Posted September 21, 2019 Actually paint stripper works very well also. Brush it on, cover with plastic from wallyworld bags and let it work Use a car body plastic bondo spreader to scrape it off Paper towels for the remainder. Clean up with rags and water. Gloves and eye protection are mandatory. So is a fan. Better than smelling MEK for hours, Works pretty fast, Same goes for the door and baggage door seals. Drape plastic to protect the paint, go slow 8" at a time and clean it up real clean. Quote
PT20J Posted September 22, 2019 Report Posted September 22, 2019 I’m going to have to do this this winter. Anyone tried 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover? Skip Quote
jetdriven Posted September 22, 2019 Report Posted September 22, 2019 If you cover any of that stripper or solvent with Saran Wrap then let it set an hour it does wonders, along with the rest of Cliffy’s technique. I stripped the forward half of my wing with acetone and Saran Wrap. 1 Quote
Bob_Belville Posted September 22, 2019 Report Posted September 22, 2019 I’m going to have to do this this winter. Anyone tried 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover? Skip Yes, works fast.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 1 Quote
RLCarter Posted September 22, 2019 Report Posted September 22, 2019 2 hours ago, PT20J said: I’m going to have to do this this winter. Anyone tried 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover? Skip I have, didn't work all that great so went back to acetone 1 Quote
AlexLev Posted September 22, 2019 Author Report Posted September 22, 2019 Any considerations for using all these chemicals around the wing spar back there?? Quote
RLCarter Posted September 22, 2019 Report Posted September 22, 2019 Dont use this stuff, it causes Hydrogen Embrittlement 1 1 Quote
carusoam Posted September 22, 2019 Report Posted September 22, 2019 Aircraft Brand Paint Remover... Do Not Use on Aircraft... I’m going to shake my head for hours... -a- Quote
RLCarter Posted September 22, 2019 Report Posted September 22, 2019 3 minutes ago, carusoam said: Aircraft Brand Paint Remover... Do Not Use on Aircraft... I’m going to shake my head for hours... -a- go figure, right? I called them 4 or 5 years ago to ask why you cant use aircraft paint remover on aircraft, and all he said was two words, Hydrogen Embrittlement, I thanked him for his time and that was the end of our conversation 2 Quote
carusoam Posted September 22, 2019 Report Posted September 22, 2019 So... Looking up Hydrogen embrittlement... because I have heard of this in my school days... mostly related to steel processing... https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_embrittlement Makes you appreciate the labeling regulations we have in the US. Best regards, -a- 1 Quote
cliffy Posted September 22, 2019 Report Posted September 22, 2019 "Hydrogen embrittles a variety of substances including steel,[11][12][13] aluminium (at high temperatures only[14]), and titanium.[15] Austempered iron is also susceptible, though austempered steel (and possibly other austempered metals) display increased resistance to hydrogen embrittlement.[16] In tensile tests carried out on several structural metals under high-pressure molecular hydrogen environment, it has been shown that austenitic stainless steels, aluminium (including alloys), copper (including alloys, e.g. beryllium copper) are not susceptible to hydrogen embrittlement along with a few other metals.[17][18]" In the current use on the floor boards that are not structural in any way embrittlment really may not be an issue, Just don't get sloppy and run it on the spar to be real safe. Likewise, it seems that aluminum is only susceptible at elevated temperatures. HE on steel, especially 4130 aircraft steel, is a big factor when that steel is chrome plated and that is why steel needs to be baked after plating to remove the hydrogen from stressed steel parts. Quote
jetdriven Posted September 22, 2019 Report Posted September 22, 2019 I read somewhere that the auto parts store stripper failed with regard to overlapping parts and corrosion. At least keep it off the seams Quote
Mcstealth Posted September 22, 2019 Report Posted September 22, 2019 Hydrogen Embrittlement Ok. So here is a new one for me. I guess I can figure it out in context, but I’m still going to look it up. Quote
cliffy Posted September 22, 2019 Report Posted September 22, 2019 I'm not a metallurgist but here's a report . If anyone here can figure it out go for it! Go to section 1211 (at the bottom of each page) for 4130 aircraft steel https://www.sandia.gov/matlsTechRef/chapters/SAND2008_1163.pdf 1 Quote
RLCarter Posted September 22, 2019 Report Posted September 22, 2019 I seem to remember that the US Air Force was using Simple Green years ago as a cleaner and it was causing HE, now Simple Green has an Aircraft formula Quote
jetdriven Posted September 22, 2019 Report Posted September 22, 2019 The green version corrodes aluminum. The purple version kills the paint. Quote
PT20J Posted September 22, 2019 Report Posted September 22, 2019 I think Formula 409 also says not to use on aluminum -- at least is used to. Quote
RLCarter Posted September 22, 2019 Report Posted September 22, 2019 for 99% of my cleaning I use water and elbow grease, if it tougher a little WD-40 works well as a solvent ( @Piloto would be proud) 2 Quote
Mcstealth Posted September 23, 2019 Report Posted September 23, 2019 (edited) 17 hours ago, RLCarter said: for 99% of my cleaning I use water and elbow grease, if it tougher a little WD-40 works well as a solvent ( @Piloto would be proud) Mr Carter, is that a dispersing agent, or a displacement type you are describing? @carusoam Edited September 23, 2019 by Mcstealth 1 Quote
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