What is this Part??? Broken on annual.....HELP! Sits on top of yoke ANSWR: 088-01091-0004 - switch cap assy

[bradp]

If you clip the wires to the switch use this method to re-connect them:

i did the same with my trim switch and it worked well. Put a large heat shrink around the individually heat ahrinked wires.  Best part is if you need access again simple desolder and you’re all set. If it’s too tight in the yoke handle @Piloto suggested cutting the wires staggered.  Just make sure you have them well labeled. 

[jaylw314]

1 hour ago, bradp said:

If you clip the wires to the switch use this method to re-connect them:

i did the same with my trim switch and it worked well. Put a large heat shrink around the individually heat ahrinked wires.  Best part is if you need access again simple desolder and you’re all set. If it’s too tight in the yoke handle @Piloto suggested cutting the wires staggered.  Just make sure you have them well labeled. 

+1 on staggering the wires (whether you use pins or just solder), it'll reduce the maximum width of the bundle.  It does mean, though, that you will have a longer stretch of wire that is inflexible.  Alternatively, you could split the difference and staggering two smaller bundles.

Incidentally, I found that Steinair.com was the cheapest and easiest way to get those damn pins and sockets, as well as the crimping tool

[Cabanaboy]

22 hours ago, jaylw314 said:

+1 on staggering the wires (whether you use pins or just solder), it'll reduce the maximum width of the bundle.  It does mean, though, that you will have a longer stretch of wire that is inflexible.  Alternatively, you could split the difference and staggering two smaller bundles.

Incidentally, I found that Steinair.com was the cheapest and easiest way to get those damn pins and sockets, as well as the crimping tool

How can i find the pins and sockets on Steinair web site, what are they called?

[jaylw314]

Here you go.  The pins have a link to their crimping tool. 

https://www.steinair.com/product-category/connectors/d-sub/contacts/

[Cabanaboy]

1 hour ago, Cabanaboy said:

How can i find the pins and sockets on Steinair web site, what are they called?

Wonder where the best place(location)  to cut the wires would be?

[bradp]

I was stuck and had to resolder the switch leads  - I ended up using the existing wires and making the connection  in the vertical yoke handle and putting  some slack in the bundle in the horizontal part of the yoke in case I needed to disconnect the switch. I also didn’t want to have to solder upside down under the panel.  Been there don’t like to do it.  

Only real rule of thumb is avoid places where there is flexing of the wires (ie avoid yoke shaft exit). 

You also need a little bit of service line if you were to need to access again in the future. 

Go for the most easily accessible part of the yoke assembly in case you need to re access   

[LANCECASPER]

Side point - if you were ever thinking of wrapping your yokes in leather, now would be the time while you have that off. 

http://customizer.aerocomfort.com/wheel/choose

 

[m20kmooney]

On 1/29/2019 at 12:41 PM, Cabanaboy said:

Wonder where the best place(location)  to cut the wires would be?

Best place is down behind the yoke. Why don’t you have avionics shop do this? 

[M20F-1968]

There is no rule that is has to look exactly as the part you have.  It is merely a box to place switches.  You can 3D print it as was mentioned.  You can make a small box using it as a fiberglass mold to lay-up fiberglass over it.  Yo can also get a block of aluminum and work manually on a vertical milling machine and mill out a new box, similar to what you have.  

This will be the most durable of the options and will be the last one you will every have to make.

John Breda

[bradp]

12 hours ago, m20kmooney said:

Best place is down behind the yoke. Why don’t you have avionics shop do this? 

In the tube is okay. Behind the yoke shaft is bad. That where the cables flex with every movement of the yoke.  Puts too much stress on connectors or solder joints.  May be fine for a few years but expect problems down the road. 

[Cabanaboy]

23 hours ago, m20kmooney said:

Best place is down behind the yoke. Why don’t you have avionics shop do this? 

Oh i will, just want to make sure they do it right.

[Cabanaboy]

02-2019 I was able to order one from Bendix King(my shop did as they are a Bendix King "dealer"  Bendix Phone -->855-250-7027

Wanted to make sure i posted where and how i got part 088-01991-0004 called Switch Cap Assembly.

 

 

 

[PT20J]

7 minutes ago, Cabanaboy said:

02-2019 I was able to order one from Bendix King(my shop did as they are a Bendix King "dealer"  Bendix Phone -->855-250-7027

Wanted to make sure i posted where and how i got part 088-01991-0004 called Switch Cap Assembly.

 

 

 

What did it cost?
 

[Austintatious]

If you can send me or post a really good sketch with precise measurements (with a micrometer) I can build this in cad and print it with Carbon fiber infused PLA.

It would be best if the measurements were in MM.

Edited May 13, 2022 by Austintatious

[Cabanaboy]

On 5/13/2022 at 10:03 AM, PT20J said:

What did it cost?
 

$406 in 2019 from Bendix King (Mooney was way more)

[M Terry]

found an STL file to 3D print this part

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4340751

[AH-1 Cobra Pilot]

3 hours ago, M Terry said:

found an STL file to 3D print this part

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4340751

I would give it no more than 50% chance to fit on the first try.  Be ready to modify the file or sand/cut some plastic.  There are soooo many variables between printers, slicers, plastics, filaments, etc.

[jamicozzi]

On 1/27/2019 at 11:51 AM, Cabanaboy said:

Found this on another mooneyspace post. Says not avail on their web site, posted for info if anyone has same problem.

088-01091-0004

Did you ever find this part?  If so  can you share? I happen to need the exact same part…

[NickG]

43 minutes ago, jamicozzi said:

Did you ever find this part?  If so  can you share? I happen to need the exact same part…

I might have one

[M Terry]

On 3/12/2024 at 10:07 AM, AH-1 Cobra Pilot said:

I would give it no more than 50% chance to fit on the first try.  Be ready to modify the file or sand/cut some plastic.  There are soooo many variables between printers, slicers, plastics, filaments, etc.

I got it printed and the avionics shop painted it and put the letters on it, looks just like the original.

 

[IFLYIFR]

Does anyone know where I can find the “Manual Electric Trim” switch in the diagrams near the beginning of this topic? It is for my 1990 M20J. I can’t find the part number and can’t find a replacement switch.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[NickG]

On 7/20/2024 at 11:35 AM, IFLYIFR said:

Does anyone know where I can find the “Manual Electric Trim” switch in the diagrams near the beginning of this topic? It is for my 1990 M20J. I can’t find the part number and can’t find a replacement switch.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I just replaced mine with a nice used one that someone on MS sold me. You could also try Skyman Avionics … I think they had a couple. Be prepared though… those BK switches are pricey. I was quoted $2100 for a new one. I think the used ones were around $700 or so.

[shawnd]

Any recommendations for who can make slight adjustment and then print it? I would like the CWS removed as the Garmin GFC doesn't support it. Also, does it have the hole for the speedbrake switch on the side?

[PT20J]

The speed brake switch is a separate part that goes underneath the B-K part. Mine is black anodized aluminum. It's probably a Precise Flight part.

[shawnd]

Derp - that is indeed separate and below the Bendix piece.