Panel Plastic

[Cruiser]

On 10/3/2018 at 1:05 PM, gsxrpilot said:

The process we went through was to make a panel using clear plexiglass (Lexan). I think we made a couple of them. The plane was in the avionics shop and the original panel and all instruments were out of the plane. So we were able to use the factory panel as a template and then just move stuff around until it looked right. We used a dry erase marker on the clear plastic to mock it up before cutting. Once the template was what we wanted, then we measured and mocked it up in SolidWorks. 

This was all for my M20K. Some of the measurements might transfer, but I'm sure he doesn't have a file specifically for a M20C. 

you did all that for $200?

[gsxrpilot]

2 hours ago, Cruiser said:

you did all that for $200?

No, we did it for $60. The metal for the panel and the cutting was $50, the Lexan at HD was less than $10. SolidWorks is free to EAA members. I traded flight time with Chocks for the design/layout. 

There was a lot of time put into it, but the $$ was nothing. After we had the CAD file from SolidWorks, we took it to a metal shop, dug out a piece of scrap aluminum and threw it on the water cutter. It took 2 min and the guy charged us $50 for it.

[KSMooniac]

@Aerodon here might be able to help as well with a new panel. I know he's done J/K panels from scratch and might be eager to do an earlier one.

I concur with the minor mod/no 337 opinion. Some planes have a structural panel and thus it would be a major mod, but Mooneys do not. A logbook entry is sufficient for an update. Just match the aluminum gage and you're good...



Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk

[carusoam]

AeroDon also has some options for flush mounting G5s that could be helpful.

 

he has posted pics around here somewhere...

[Shiny moose]

On 10/4/2018 at 7:32 AM, chrixxer said:

No, his point was if something is installed and labeled in the owner's manual, that's where it stays absent an STC or field approval. The electronics in the panel aren't labeled in the owner's manual (see attached).

So I guess, through his logic, what gets installed in that stack isn't part of the aircraft's certification ... Again, I don't think it's an accurate interpretation, but it's what his position is.

Using his logic, I guess you can remove the AS, ALT, compass, oil, Fuel gauges, tach and others not labeled just pictured here

[jmbaute]

Thanks to all have given their input. I'm going to remove the plastic and fabricate an aluminum overlay that will look a lot nicer. i will also figure out a way to get the dimensions recorded for future use by the group. 

Question - does anyone know how to remove the landing gear switch? I don't think the plastic will go around the "wheel" on the actuator, so I either need to remove it, or remove the switch somehow. Is the wheel just threaded onto the switch? Or do I need to remove the metal ring? And any idea what the hole in the ring is for?

[DualRatedFlyer]

Just now, jmbaute said:

Thanks to all have given their input. I'm going to remove the plastic and fabricate an aluminum overlay that will look a lot nicer. i will also figure out a way to get the dimensions recorded for future use by the group. 

Question - does anyone know how to remove the landing gear switch? I don't think the plastic will go around the "wheel" on the actuator, so I either need to remove it, or remove the switch somehow. Is the wheel just threaded onto the switch? Or do I need to remove the metal ring? And any idea what the hole in the ring is for?

Not sure about the ring. The wheel is threaded on with an Allen screw on the bottom. My threads are stripped so the Allen screw is the only thing that holds it on

[gsxrpilot]

11 hours ago, carusoam said:

AeroDon also has some options for flush mounting G5s that could be helpful.

 

he has posted pics around here somewhere...

I believe Garmin now offers a flush mount kit for the G5. But when I installed mine, they weren't offering one. I discovered that the flush mount kit for a JPI EDM-900 (available from AircraftSpruce) is a good fit. That's how my G5 is flush mounted.

[Yetti]

2 hours ago, jmbaute said:

Thanks to all have given their input. I'm going to remove the plastic and fabricate an aluminum overlay that will look a lot nicer. i will also figure out a way to get the dimensions recorded for future use by the group. 

Question - does anyone know how to remove the landing gear switch? I don't think the plastic will go around the "wheel" on the actuator, so I either need to remove it, or remove the switch somehow. Is the wheel just threaded onto the switch? Or do I need to remove the metal ring? And any idea what the hole in the ring is for?

More than likely the hole the red arrow is point to is for a spanner type wrench (use needle nose pliers- if you break them don't blame me and buy better pliers next time).  see if there is not a hole 180 degrees apposing.  It looks like standard toggle switch threads.  The white wheel is screw on with an allen set screw.     You should be able to find a replacement switch on digikey.com and since you have it all apart get a new switch and keep the old as a spare.

 

Edited October 18, 2018 by Yetti

[Hank]

2 hours ago, jmbaute said:

Thanks to all have given their input. I'm going to remove the plastic and fabricate an aluminum overlay that will look a lot nicer. i will also figure out a way to get the dimensions recorded for future use by the group. 

Question - does anyone know how to remove the landing gear switch? I don't think the plastic will go around the "wheel" on the actuator, so I either need to remove it, or remove the switch somehow. Is the wheel just threaded onto the switch? Or do I need to remove the metal ring? And any idea what the hole in the ring is for?

My plastic overlay has a gap above the wheel switch. Looking closely at yours, it appears to have one as well.