1967 M20F - Remove Front Left Baffle

[pilot_jb]

Good morning from Michigan.

What's the trick to removing the front left piece of baffle that sits in front of cylinder #2?  Everything is disconnected and it's loose, but the through stud and associated nut that sits beneath, and the tab that sits between the cylinder base flange and cooling fins are getting in the way.  I have not dropped the starter, but don't see that it's an obstruction.  

The prop has not been removed.  

For reference, the picture was taken in the beginning of the project...and yes the two small upper baffle pieces have been removed.  

Thanks!

 

 

[1964-M20E]

there is one screw that goes into the block below the baffle.  It would be in the upper left side but you need to access it form under the baffle.  Other than that I'm not sure.

 

 

[pilot_jb]

1 hour ago, 1964-M20E said:

there is one screw that goes into the block below the baffle.  It would be in the upper left side but you need to access it form under the baffle.  Other than that I'm not sure.

 

 

Found three bolts; two in the case and one in the cylinder.  I'm pretty sure it's free, but can't coax it off. 

[Yetti]

There is a bolt into the block that you have to remove.  Choose wisely young skywalker.

The clamp baffle between the cylinders has to be popped off.  That is fun to get back on.

The rod (sometimes safetywire) on the bottom of the cylinders has to be removed.

 

 

[Yetti]

The rod holds the outside metal baffles to the outside cylinders fins to keep air moving through them.

[pilot_jb]

So, I figured this out after work last night.  The vertical section of the left front baffle, which is located next to the block and underneath, has a hole for the through stud and associated nut.  This section is flexible enough to to be pulled outboard and over the stud as the outboard portion of the baffle is rotated upward.  At the same time, the baffle extension that is attached to the bottom side for the lower portion of cylinder #2 must be pulled forward, so it clears the fins on the upper part of the cylinder.  

I'll post some pictures the next time I'm at the hangar in case anyone else searches for this issue.  

[MB65E]

Yours has some upper baffleing that most do not. Mine hangs up in the lower inner baffleing as it hits the aluminum portion of the head. 

Make sure the lower rods that tie the front and aft pieces together are secure. My inner rod rubbed a decent size gouge in the #4 drain back tube this year. 

-Matt